My Power Commander lll just quit working, and while that's off to Dynojet Research for warranty repair, I needed a new programmer to keep me going (since the factory setings stink for power and throttle response, as we all know).
So, I just got an FMF Power Programmer.

Question:
What settings work for power and throttle response?
I'm after off-road performance and don't care about miles per gallon.

My WR-250Rs mods are:
*FMF Powerbomb header and Q4 muffler
*Deflappered airbox
*12/45 sprockets :)

Update on my FMF PP experimentation and use:

This unit has not missed a beat so far.
I like how it's not mounted up under the headlight and having it's wiring being flexed, bent, and twisted with movement of the handlebar.

If you haven't tried it yet (and you're looking for sharper throttle response), try setting modes 4, 5, and 6 with small values, as I typically see values of 4.5 and higher being used.
This reduces the delay in fueling when you open the throttle and makes the bike noticably more responsive.
Right now, I've got values of 1 in these modes and really like it.
What I'll probably end up doing is setting them at .5 to make it as quick as possible. :)

[quote="0007onWR"]Anyone know how to convert a PCIII map to the PCV?
I know a guy who need's the Rustyg61 map

. .. . further to 007onWR's query, whats the good goss on differences between the PCIII & PC V .. . are the maps interchangeable? Will the V work OK on an '08 (despite supposedly only being for '09) ?.
I dont wanna buy a V for my '08 but then find it wont work, or OTOH buy the III only to be told "Oh you really shoulda gone for the V, they're MUCH better!"


Cheers from DownUnder ;-]]

PS Regarding FMF Vs PC, guys often rate the PC because of its ability to reduce (not just increase) fuel flow, & the FMF can only increase .. . . . which leads me to a question I've not yet seen asked or answered ~ do PCIII users ever/often/never find that they use a map with a reduced flow in some zones to get an optimal 'tune'?

When I had my Power Commander lll on the bike, it was mounted under the headlight as shown in the installation instructions.
The FMF Power Programmer I use now is much thinner and is mounted under the left-hand side cover and velcro-mounted to the forward side of the battery holder. :)

Hi!I´m looking to buy a fmf efi power programmer,but my wrr has O2 sensor.Is O2 sensor compatible with fmf programmer?Somebody have fmf programmer and O2 sensor?

Probably off-topic somewhat, but where are the deals for the PCIII ?

I have one on my R1 and I've got the programming part down (somewhat)

I'd rather use what I know I know than to learn what I don't (again). ...and me and my laptop have this bond ya know. That's swy they call it a laptop ya know ! (Not so much like a lap dance - It's different somehow) TMI I realize...

..or do I just get my wallet out and go buy the servo plug-in and PCIII at Dynojet and STFU.

Hi all, last weekend I finally got to take my R2 for a decent dose of bush bashing, & I must say how VERY pleased I am with it ~ especially in terms of its ability to pull hard down low rather than having to be revved out. (I'm not an agressive rider, I prefer engines that behave like they came out of tractors!).



I'ld been keeping my previous ride (a GG Pampera) aside rather than selling it until I had found out how the R2 was going to compare ~ & the GG-P is now on the market.



My R2 has all the usual mods now, incl an FMF programmer set to 3,5,.5,8,4,4, which was the last set posted in the Battlethread by Steveakus & Krabil ex dyno.



During the ride I found a tendency of the bike to stall when coming to a stop, or just de-clutched at low revs.

When I went to raise the idle I found that I hadda screw it out a couple of full turns to get even a slightly noticeable increase in revs ~ is this normal, or could it indicate that something else is out, like mebbe the TPS position? I'm used to idle screws that need very little tweaking in order to change the revs.



Thanks for ANY insights.

BrooC DownUnder

My idle speed screw acted in a similar manner.
Guess that's how it goes with the WR-250R FI throttle body vs. a screw raising the throttle slide of a carburetor.

Once in a while, my bike will stall at low revs, but it doesn't do it enough to be a major hastle.

I've been using my FMF programmer settings with the 4th, 5th, and 6th modes set at .5
I like the quicker response. :)

Service your air filter often.
If you ride most of a day off road, do it before the next ride.
Use a real foam filter oil, too. :)

I wonder if after opening the air bypass you would get a reaction to idle speed by adding some fuel in CO mode
Try going up 10 points and see if idle speed increases