2012 trouble starting!

Hello everybody, I have been following this forum for about a year and a half and I now have a 2012 Wr250r of my own. I took the bike out of winter storage and the bike ran great for about two tanks. Last Thursday i did a lot of short trips and start ups, I started it up for two minutes then drove about five then shut it off. After that I did the same ( two minute warm up and five minute ride) Later that night I warmed up the bike and forgot something in my car twice, I have to shut the bike off to unlock my car because I use a key. So after I got my things I started it up again without any problems and drove another five minutes to get some things at the store. I was finally on my way to downtown, which is about a 20 minute ride. Less than five minutes after I left the store I was going uphill and the bike started to bog down and die. I tried to start it but nothing. I pushed it back home which took me about an hour. I was pretty sure i fried the battery so I purchased a new Shorai battery and also a new spark plug. When I turn the key, the fuel pump primes every time and there are no error codes or anything. The bike will crank but will not start. I even charged the new battery but it does the same. I went into diagnostics mode and got fault code 30 which is lean angle sensor. Im not sure if i screwed something up with all of the short start ups and stops or if it might possibly be the lean angle sensor. I checked the side stand switch and kill switch and they are working fine. I might not be getting a good spark so I will get a new plug tomorrow. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated, Thanks!

Sorry to hear your having troubles, I may not be much help but ill try. Clear the codes for us and then try to start it just to see if it throws the same code again.

From what I found code 30:"Lean Angle Sensor -- bad/no signal"
VS. its sister code 41: "Lean Angle Sensor -- open or shorted"- this one usually means the bike has fallen over

Pretty straight forward sounds like the tip over sensor is not producing a signal, and the ECU is cutting the ignition, may be as simple as replacing the lean angle sensor its located right under the seat. Alternatively you may have luck removing and inspecting the sensor and wires for any apparent problems/defects. Such as having built up some corrosion or it may just not be plugged in all the way. Try cleaning off the pins and plugging it back in, make sure the wires aren't pinched or frayed.

If the lean angle sensor is tripped it should throw the check engine light on. Is yours on? Did you try putting some fresh gas in it?

Blusmoke- I cleared the code and tried again but nothing, it sounds like it wants to start but it wont. I just replaced the spark plug again today as well. I also unplugged the sensor, inspected and shot some compressed air into the pins and still the same.

Wristpin- I siphoned around 90% of the gas what i could and put fresh 93 octane in. I removed the sensor and turned it upside down and the engine light came on so I figure its working proplerly, Im guessing it could be electrical somewhere.

There is a connector behind the radiator that is known to loosen up and give similar results to what you have, I think? May be worth checking out. There were some threads about it here.

Wristpin- I took apart the plugs and blew some compressed air in them. There was a little piece of dirt stuck in the connector where it clicks in. I tried starting it and it backfired once, which was better than nothing before. I am charging my battery right now and I will try again and also wiggle the wires when im done. I noticed that there was play in the connector but it was clicked in.

Does anyone know if there should be any play if you try to pull it apart? And also with dirt around the connector, should i use WD40?

About once every 6 months my bike absolutely refuses to start after sitting for 3 or 4 weeks.

It will crank and crank but not so much as a pop. Still have not figured out why this is but after sacrificing a live chicken I have found that if I pull the ECM (Engine Computer Module - under the seat) and leave the bike sit for about 20 minutes I can usually get it started by holding the throttle wide open and cranking her for all she is worth.

One day I am going to push down my driveway and down the hill I am on to see if it will bump start when this is going on.

Still don't have a clue why it does this but I think I may check out the connector behind the radiator.

rsteiger- I tried to see if your magic trick would work with my bike but same thing, it just wont fire. After trying i entered diagnostic mode again and got the fault code 30 (lean angle sensor). I cleared the code and tried to start again but same thing. Im wondering if this is the underlying cause of the problem, I will look at it more tomorrow

Did you check for spark when you were replacing the sparky plug? I would like to know if that code is actually cutting power to the coil, especially since you make it sound like the sensor still detects a tip over.

I would go ahead and buy a new sensor, they are $60   from bikebandit.com, but according to my own research yamaha's R1 and R6 sport bikes both use the same bike bandit part number as the WR for their lean angle sensors. This leads me to believe that these sensors are all the same and ebay has quite the abundance of these sensors from different models a lot around $5

http://www.ebay.com/itm/06-07-Yamaha-R6-Tip-Over-Bank-Angle-Sensor-/141524572419?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AYamaha&hash=item20f3859903&vxp=mtr

Heli-WR wrote:

rsteiger- I tried to see if your magic trick would work with my bike but same thing, it just wont fire. After trying i entered diagnostic mode again and got the fault code 30 (lean angle sensor). I cleared the code and tried to start again but same thing. Im wondering if this is the underlying cause of the problem, I will look at it more tomorrow

Try pulling the lean sensor of the bike and disconnect it from the harness and give it a good shake. You should feel/hear something rattle in it. If you don't, give it a good shot of WD40 where the harness connects into the lean sensor - there are some holes that go into the lean sensor mechanism. Give it another shake and see if the rattle is there. If not , shoot it with WD40 again.

Put it back on the bike and see if bike starts.

I disconnected the sensor and gave it a shake and i could feel something rattle. I WD 40 the connections and they looked clean. Now when I ran the diagnostic test again there were no fault codes, I unplugged the ecu for 20 minutes and nothing. I have a spark on the coil when i ground it to the frame and I can smell fuel up the spark plug hole when trying to start. Im not sure what else to try The only other thing I noticed before is that it would backfire a little on decel. I took out the air filter and it looked fine and tried to start it without the filter and same thing. Anybody have other ideas?

Im guesing you got water in your gas, you drained 90% of it out of the tank but the fuel line would still be full of it so it will take a lot of cranking before you burn the crappy stuff out of it. You could unhook the line from the injector and spray it out by turning the key on to speed up the process.

When I tip my bike over and trip the lean angle sensor it shuts the fuel pump off not the spark, if the fuel pumps running the sensors fine.

My bike runs like crap if the gas is a month or so old, pump gas sucks now and just doesnt last in small vented tanks like our bikes have.

Thanks for the input Biglake. I will give that a shot. I have been riding here in Wisconsin in weather around 35 degrees + so that could very well be a possibility. Im just curious how much fuel the injectors actually use. I've cranked it A ton of times but im guessing it uses very little.

I took off the tank and drained it dry, I also took off the connector for the injector and drained the gas out of that. I plugged back in the connections and topped of the tank but still same thing, Im wondering if im not getting a spark inside the cover

Not having a great day, I noticed that my oil level was very low  and could barely see it in the sight glass when it was was on the stand. I took the bike off the stand, added some oil, I was putting the bike back on the stand and I forgot that the fuel tank was not attached to the frame, It unplugged the connectors and hit the concrete, Now there is a crack on the bottom of the gas tank where it connects to the fuel line. The chunk that broke off is still in the connector, Here are some pics

https://i.servimg.com/u/f19/19/18/41/85/000312.jpg
https://i.servimg.com/u/f19/19/18/41/85/000410.jpg

Im not sure what to do next Im wondering if i could just buy that part for the tank or if i have to get a new fuel pump as well

Ouch!! That sucks!! Looking at OEM parts from rocky mountain atv, it looks like you need the whole assembly which is over 300 bucks. It looks to have broke in a place where it would be hard to rig up some tubing or something as a "fix". That's a real bummer. I took my tank off the other day and was wrestling that clip off and saying to myself that it would really suck if that little tube broke.

I read about a bunch of people replacing the entire assembly when their fuel pump crapped out, you may try posting something on the classified section looking for an old assembly with a bad pump in it, then swap your good pump out with it being careful not to break anything. Just a thought.

Heli-WR wrote:

Not having a great day, I noticed that my oil level was very low  and could barely see it in the sight glass when it was was on the stand. I took the bike off the stand, added some oil, I was putting the bike back on the stand and I forgot that the fuel tank was not attached to the frame, It unplugged the connectors and hit the concrete, Now there is a crack on the bottom of the gas tank where it connects to the fuel line. The chunk that broke off is still in the connector, Here are some pics

https://i.servimg.com/u/f19/19/18/41/85/000312.jpg
https://i.servimg.com/u/f19/19/18/41/85/000410.jpg

Im not sure what to do next Im wondering if i could just buy that part for the tank or if i have to get a new fuel pump as well

I did the same thing when I was removing my tank.  Went to get something to help remover the fuel line and the tank slid off the bike.  I ended up buying a whole new fuel pump assembly from Service Honda.

http://www.servicehonda.com/parts/lookup#/Yamaha/WR25RB_-_WR25RBL_-_2012/FUEL_TANK/WR25RBL_(2012_MOTORCYCLE)/FUEL_TANK_(WR25RBL_-_2012)

Item #23 - $267.86

I just ordered a new fuel pump from bikebandit and i have an AMA card so i was able to chop $30 off. How hard was the fuel pump to install rsteiger?

Heli-WR wrote:

I just ordered a new fuel pump from bikebandit and i have an AMA card so i was able to chop $30 off.  How hard was the fuel pump to install rsteiger?

Not hard at all. I think there are 6 bolts that hold it in place on the bottom of the tank. There is also a rubber gasket that fits into the pump.

Just take a picture of the old one in the tank before you pull it to make sure you put the new one in the same orientation.

Alright thats not bad then, I think im going to take it to the dealer after I put that in. Im wondering if I had an oil leak because it was really low and that could be the problem.

Whatever you find out about this once the bike is running, again, come back here and please report the cause.

Hello everyone, I have been gone for a little over a month but i'm happy to say that my bike is finally up and running again after this long fiasco. I had the dealer look at the bike and they found that the whole top end needed replacing which really worried me at first but I stayed patient. I had to send receipts of my type of oil filter and such so Yamaha knew it was the right things. Then Yamaha  had the dealer take apart the bottom and send them pictures of the oil screen, my guess to rule out that i somehow intentionally did it on purpose. After patiently waiting a few more days Yamaha got back to the dealer approved the warranty issue which I was relieved about. In the end the dealer rebuilt the whole engine and the guy said that just parts was about $3,000. Yamaha is paying for everything and all i have to do is pick up the bike tonight to break in the engine again which sucks but hey im back riding!   Yamaha has been awesome to me as well as the service department, The guy always kept me updated on things and walked me through what was going to happen. I still don't know the actual cause, Im wondering if the engine must have been burning oil or must have been a very small leak for me to go over 200 miles after my oil change  Im wondering if I put the oil bolt washer on wrong and that created the small leak  Anyways thanks to everyone that helped me trying to troubleshoot the problem, I am very glad that I joined this forum. Let the mods begin!!!!