Does anyone make a bolt on sidestand foot for our bikes?

I've contacted R&G and they are currently too swamped to develop one. Even offered to send them a DXF file depicting the required shape to mate with the factory pad.

eBay sellers in China have one for an older YAMAHA T-MAX 530 scooter that appears to have a similar shaped pad as ours.


Here's the Chinese hopeful... If anyone has access to a Yamaha T-Max (has to be 2013 or older since newer ones appear to have MUCH different style sidestand foot shape) and can confirm shape/dimensions match the WRR/X, I'd be willing to order one and give it a test.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kickstand-Foot-Side-Stand-Enlarger-Plate-Pad-For-2013-2015-YAMAHA-TMax-T-MAX-530-/141759561513?var=&hash=item2101873f29&vxp=mtr

P.S. also just sent an email inquiry to "Ride On Adv" who makes a nice one for the Tenere.

http://rideonadv.com/shop/super-tenere-protection/rideonadv-sidestand-foot/

Their Tenere version milled pocket resembles the WR foot shape even more closely than the T-Max version in the post above... both Yamaha... so it does not seem like a stretch. I carry a puck, which I toss down and retrieve a LOT... gets old. Would LOVE to simply attach a well made enlarged foot.

Just weld a piece of metal cut what ever shape you think looks good onto the foot of the side stand.

Or drill a hole in the foot of the side stand and bolt a larger foot onto it.

The side stand is metal on the wrr/wrx not aluminium like the bikes they make bolt on kits for so you don't need to buy anything as its super easy to add a larger foot yourself.

That (weld-on) is a great option. If no bolt on is available will probably be cutting, shaping, and welding very soon.
Thank you for the reply

Jaxon at Ride On Adv replied to my latest inquiry.
Sent him a few drawings, and a Solidworks model of the WR geometry in relation to the sidestand.
Fingers crossed.

Made a prototype out of an old piece of translucent high density nylon today. Milled a pocket for the stock foot to sit down flush with top of plate, and secured it with 8 screws.
Turned out decent.

Had fashioned a weld on plate from 1/4" stainless, but did not weld it on because it weighed 10z.    Turns out that is just enough weight to likely flop the stand on bumpy roads, which is why I made the nylon alternate, which weighed in at about 1/4th the weight of the stainless one. Nylon was 2-1/2 oz including screws.

Milled a .2" deep pocket to cradle the stock foot


Up position


8 of these Torx drive screws hold it on. They are very coarse with great grip in the nylon foot.
The foot is 1/2" thick.
The screw's threads are .2" O.D, and I used a .138" dia drill bit for the pilot hole. 8 screws will keep that foot on through all but the worst rock gardens.

the nylon is a good idea ...In your design it looks like the nylon would not be able to rotate..= good. did you consider drilling/ tapping the oem foot and using one flat head fastener to hold the nylon on/against the foot?{bolt head counter sunk into nylon}

I did consider that, but opted against it. For aluminum or stainless that mounting approach would have been optimal I think, however with nylon I was worried about it flexing, and fatiguing quicker unless I spread the mounting points outwards, with smaller holes, and omitting any countersinks on the bottom, where it is already thinner (reduced from 1/2" to .3" where the .2" deep pocket was milled for the stock steel foot).

I liked the nylon despite its structural limitations, due to being supremely light (vs steel or aluminium), which reduces kickstand bounce over bumps

Hope that rambling answer made sense.

umm good points.. i have one of those key cutters...

http://www.carbideanddiamondtooling.com/assets/images/whitney/woodruffpic_thumbnail.jpg

that would create a locking flange in the nylon on three sides of the oem foot flange.. then the a small flat head bolt scenario would only keep the nylon from sliding off /less tendency to crack.I may try and post up when the cold weather arrives...

thanks for posting up