Wrench-less Seat Bolts

I tend to remove the seat very frequently, so I 3D-printed some custom seat bolts.

That is an AWESOME idea !!!! 

agreed with EVOL .  even better ..would save humping over to find the bolt head amongst the dirt on the off road units. For anyone that doesn't have a 3d printer get a buddy to weld a wingnut to the seat bolt heads..one or two sizes larger to get some real estate to hang on to like Mozart has.

thanks for posting up

I used a quik-release from a Suzuki B-King. Screwed stud/plate to the seat pan, and the cable latch secured to the sub-frame through two existing bolt holes near the ECU, as if it was made for it. The pull cable sits right on the outside of the stock tool-kit, and it literally takes 1/2 second to unlatch the seat, and 1/2 second to re-seat it.

Ziabeam wrote:

I used a quik-release from a Suzuki B-King. Screwed stud/plate to the seat pan, and the cable latch secured to the sub-frame through two existing bolt holes near the ECU, as if it was made for it. The pull cable sits right on the outside of the stock tool-kit, and it literally takes 1/2 second to unlatch the seat, and 1/2 second to re-seat it.

Pics or it didn't happen...

I just use some wingbolts (on all my bikes), simular til wing-nuts, just on a bolt Cheap s hell, and easy to use.

Why are you getting under the seat so frequently?

DRD fiddling, spare key under there, cleaning after mudding, gawking at the flappers and doo-dads after reading about mods to airbox (have yet to mimic the mod), seat comes off to install long range seat pad, also comes off to remove same pad for trail rides, figured any time the seat needs to come off would be nice to do it lickity split. Also have an interrupter switch under there for anti-theft enhancement... damn now I have to kill you, unless you can keep a secret.

LOL good one. Guess after owning the bike for four years now and have done all the farkling and mods, I don't get under there too much anymore. Kinda like the whole marriage thing LOL. Just twice a year to service air filter.

The best place for a spare key is in the air box for me anyway!! Berwyn

Evol wrote:

Ziabeam wrote:

I used a quik-release from a Suzuki B-King. Screwed stud/plate to the seat pan, and the cable latch secured to the sub-frame through two existing bolt holes near the ECU, as if it was made for it. The pull cable sits right on the outside of the stock tool-kit, and it literally takes 1/2 second to unlatch the seat, and 1/2 second to re-seat it.

Pics or it didn't happen...

Here ya go;

Latch from Suzuki B-King


Pull cable routed to left side near tool kit;


Home made stainless post plate and titanium posts screwed to stock seat pan;

^^^

Pics with seat mounted;

My earlier post was misleading. The latch mech is attached via two holes near ECU, same exact holes that attach the rear fender to the sub-frame. The bottom of the latch post holes are where the mounting screws are located (almost out of view unless you are looking straight down into those holes), and they are the exact location of the fender mounting screws.... not to be confused with the two latch mech upper plate mounting screws which are in diagonal arrangement. The pull cable is routed through the fender panel, and zip tied to the sub-frame.