New 2017WRR, from BC

Thinking it could be the right time to pull the trigger on my first WRR. Doesn't look like the bike has changed much over the years.
Any up to date mods/suggestions would be much appreciated.

Plan on using the bike for ripping logging roads/single track mostly, with a bit of road cruising.

hoping to get away with a plastic skid plate. Probably throw some DRC edge lights on.
I want to get the bike as "light" as I can.

questions I have.
- Is it best to break the bike in before doing any exhaust mods or gearing changes?

- Should I change the tires when I get the bike?

-I'm about 5'8 140lbs, 30" inseam. Any other riders my size? Trying to avoid a lowering link.

-Is this really the bike I want? Should I get the 2016 for a bit cheaper?

Howdy.

- Is it best to break the bike in before doing any exhaust mods or gearing changes?
Myself, I'd just ride the bike as you normally would and do whatever mods you have in mind, as well as changing the oil and oil filter when recommended in the Owner's Manual.
By the way, as with any off-road motorcycle, if you are going to use it mainly as a dirt bike, you should up the frequency of the maintenance schedule shown in the Owner's Manual.
For an example, I would not ride around in the dirt without looking at the air filter for six months or without changing the engine oil for 3,000 miles.

- Should I change the tires when I get the bike?
If you are concentrating on off-road, yes, I would.
The stock tires are good on the street, and good for off-road terrain that offers relatively good traction (in other words: no mud, sand, or soft-and-wet-and-slippery stuff).

-I'm about 5'8 140lbs, 30" inseam. Any other riders my size? Trying to avoid a lowering link.
I'm 5'5".
You think you're too short?
I lowered the rear via the stock ride height adjuster at the bottom of the shock (changes the length of the shock via a threaded clevis), slid the fork tubes up about a half-inch, and rode it like that.

*EDIT*:
I now remember it was probably less than a half-inch (12mm) of fork tube height (amount the forks were slid upward).
I can't remember the exact spec., but I believe it was more like 5 or 6mm.
Your preferred setup may vary, of course, due to personal preference.

If I were to recommend a suspension change, it would be to send the shock to a suspension specialist like Travis from Go Race Suspension (who knows this bike) and have it modified to work as well as it should.
This is money well spent, and is, in fact, something I'd do before any other mods that cost considerable money.
Stock, the shock is full of air and has little damping, especially rebound damping.
That's because it's not a KYB shock as on the other Yamaha dirt bikes, but a cost-cutting Soqi unit.
When I first rode my WR250R, I felt the rear suspension was fine.
Once I got used to the bike and started to up the pace to a normal trail riding speed, it felt underdamped.

-Is this really the bike I want? Should I get the 2016 for a bit cheaper?
I haven't seen any pics or specs on a 2017 model.
The WR250R hasn't changed since it came out for the 2008 model year, so, take your pick.

Adding a a skid plate and a pair of solid hand guards is mandatory.
if you plan on doing a lot of rocky single-tracks and/or intense off road riding: buying more protectors could be a good investment (a radiator guard, brake rotor guards, frame guards, master cylinder guard).

The stock handlebar is quite thin&soft for a dirtbike, and will probably bend or twist - on your very first fall... so replacing it is a matter of time.
same goes for the stock number-plate holder.

The stock gear ratio (13-43) is good only for one thing: cruising on plane roadways... for anything other than that, you will need to enlarge the rear sprocket and change your gear ratio.
a ratio of 13-47 or 13-48 are considered quite popular choices among people who want to keep the versatility of the WRR. just google it.
(of course, if you will enlarge the rear sprocket - you will also need to change the stock 108-link chain)

I myself really don't like the stock tires. I think that not only they are bad - they are not safe.
most people replace them with another model (Dunlop D606/ Pirelli MT21/ Michelin AC10 - all are quite popular choices) immediately after they purchase this bike. and so did I.
But it must be noted: there are some people out there who do like the stock tires. so I guess it's a matter of personal preference.

Engine/exhaust mods won't justify their price. and in my experience: performance wise, you won't gain much.
in addition, this 250CC engine is really a marvel of reliability. it is one of a kind. why risk that?

Suspension mods, however, are more than recommended.
(Like many other dual-sport models, the main bottleneck in the WRR are the suspensions... in particular the rear suspension. no matter if you are a rookie or a veteran, usually that's what will 'hold you down').

Thanks for the replies! Very helpful.

Sounds like I should change the gearing, tires, buy a skid plate and hand guards. Also the rear suspension needs to be rebuilt (I'll probably hold off on that at first.)

-Should I get a speedo/odo corrector before I put any km's on it?

*Avoid the lowering link and engine/exhaust mods.

I just got a look at the new Beta's. The 350rr and 390rr look really nice.
Know anything about them?  I imagine the maintenance is more intense then with the WRR.

If I had to do it all again, I'd do suspension first. I bought a '16 last spring and I'm still trying to dial in the suspension after 3000 miles! For six hundred bucks or so you can get both the front and rear revalved. This will be my next mod. Don't hold off on it, tires, handguards and gearing can wait! Do the suspension first, with the only exception maybe getting a new seat first. Do yourself and your ass a favor and buy a Seat Concepts comfort low seat, it'll be the best $150 you spend on your bike! It'll get you lower to the ground and make long rides enjoyable and not torture on that 2x4 of a factory seat. Also, lube all major moving parts like the axles, pedals, levers, kick stand, and the steering bearings, these bikes come with little to no lube from the dealer. Use a good waterproof grease. Below are the mods I have or wish I had done in the order using hindsight...

#1. Factory lowering, I didn't know about this until a few months ago, did it and it's awesome for my short ass.
#2. Seat Concepts seat
#3. Suspension revalve (Precision Concepts)
#4 Handguards (Barkbusters Storm are awesome, way stronger than Acerbis and cheaper and easier to install than HDB). Just make sure to buy the bar end weights too to kill vibration from handguards. you might as well change your handlebars as well, I have Renthal 7/8 bars and they're much more vibey than the stock steel bars. Do yourself a favor and buy some oversized bars to kill vibes. Also, the Renthal RC bend is very similar to stock, pretty neutral bend and sweep, if that's what you want. Also get some comfy grips like Protaper pillow top or Progrip 714 rally grips. Don't use Renthal grip glue, it's terrible.
#5. Regearing - 13/48 is good if you're mostly doing offroad or are doing a decent amount of road, but also running a taller rear tire like a D606. If you're going to be running stock rear tire size, go 14/48 otherwise you'll have a hell of a time even hitting 60 on the road with 13/48! If you change to a 14 tooth front sprocket, buy the Sandman case saver to replace the stock one, they're super solid! You'll also need a 112 link chain.
#6. Tires - This is preference. I changed to D606 tires right when I got my bike and just recently switched back to my stock tires after my D606s were gone in 1500 miles. Honestly the stock tires are almost as good offroad as the D606s, if you air them down 5psi.The D606s never really impressed and wore really fast and unevenly in the front to where I can't justify buying them again. If you want some beefy dual sport tires without breaking the bank, look into the Kenda k772 for front and k760 for rear, you can get both for $50 each online.
#7. Protection - radiator guard, brake guards and skid plate will go a long way protecting your bike
#8. Gas tank. For $250 the IMS 3 gallon tank will get us 150 miles and through 99% of riding. The puny stock tank is barely good for 100 miles. The bigger 4.7 gallon IMS tank is great if you're really going to be off grid, but is ugly in my opinion and more like $400.
#9. Cargo rack/luggage. The Flatland Racing one is awesome and affordable. I have a Wolfman duffel and it's good for big stuff. The only downside is it's heavy, so get some saddle bags instead of speed is your friend on the trail.
#10. Headlight - Depending on how much you ride at night, because the stock one is terrible. Trailtech makes a nice street legal one for $150. Or if you want more light, go with Baja Designs Squadron Sport for $250.
#11. Exhaust/fuel programmer/smog delete/airbox mod. This is a controversial one and expensive one, which is why it's near the bottom.. At nearly $900 for only a few ponies more, this is an almost-not-worth-it mod. I think what I'm going to do is just get an FMF Q4 muffler and fuel programmer and call it a day to get a little more sound out of my bike and richen it up a bit. I think I'll put a Twin Air filter in at the same time.
#12. Odds and Ends. Rear tail light, blinkers and license plate bracket replacement to undo the ugly stock one, ktm fold away mirrors to replace the dorky and shaky stock ones, and Ram Mount cell phone holder

Just picked up my WR. Couldn't really afford to do too much right away.

Skidplate, Fat bars and drc lights. Still really need some hand guards.

Going to work on breaking it in, and find out what stock feels like.
I feel like theres a lot I want to take off the bike.

YZEtc wrote:

Howdy.

- Is it best to break the bike in before  doing any exhaust mods or gearing changes?
Myself, I'd just ride the bike as you normally would and X stand do whatever mods you have in mind, as well as changing the oil and oil filter when recommended in the Owner's Manual.
By the way, as with any off-road motorcycle, if you are going to use it mainly as a dirt bike, you should up the frequency of the maintenance schedule shown in the Owner's Manual.
For an example, I would not ride around in the dirt without looking at the air filter for six months or without changing the engine oil for 3,000 miles.

- Should I change the tires when I get the bike?
If you are concentrating on off-road, yes, I would.
The stock tires are good on the street, and good for off-road terrain that offers relatively good traction (in other words: no mud, sand, or soft-and-wet-and-slippery stuff).

-I'm about 5'8 140lbs, 30" inseam. Any other riders my size? Trying to avoid a lowering link.
I'm 5'5".
You think you're too short?
I lowered the rear via the stock ride height adjuster at the bottom of the shock (changes the length of the shock via a threaded clevis), slid the fork tubes up about a half-inch, and rode it like that.

*EDIT*:
I now remember it was probably less than a half-inch (12mm) of fork tube height (amount the forks were slid upward).
I can't remember the exact spec., but I believe it was more like 5 or 6mm.
Your preferred setup may vary, of course, due to personal preference.

If I were to recommend a suspension change, it would be to send the shock to a suspension specialist like Travis from Go Race Suspension (who knows this bike) and have it modified to work as well as it should.
This is money well spent, and is, in fact, something I'd do before any other mods that cost considerable money.
Stock, the shock is full of air and has little damping, especially rebound damping.
That's because it's not a KYB shock as on the other Yamaha dirt bikes, but a cost-cutting Soqi unit.
When I first rode my WR250R, I felt the rear suspension was fine.
Once I got used to the bike and started to up the pace to a normal trail riding speed, it felt underdamped.

-Is this really the bike I want? Should I get the 2016 for a bit cheaper?
I haven't seen any pics or specs on a 2017 model.
The WR250R hasn't changed since it came out for the 2008 model year, so, take your pick.

If I only have 5'3 can handle on this?

coeywong88 wrote:

If I only have 5'3 can handle on this?

That's 2 inches shorter than I am.
Can you handle the bike?
Honestly, you'll have to try it and see.

I took a look at the 2017 WR250R specs and pics on the www.yamaha-motor.com site.
Looks like the same bike it's always been.

Heres my new WR. Haven't got to ride it much because of weather. 
So far I've put on..

                          -Emperor Racing Skid plate
                          -Renthal Fatbars and clamps
                          -Torc1 grips
                          -Acerbis handguards 
                          -DRC edge 2 tail light and rear signals. (yet to put the front ones on, I think I need to buy a mount)
       
                   
       taken off..   -Reflectors
                         -Rear lights
                         -plastic engine guards
                         -tool kit
                         -helmet lock
                         -warning stickers

Looks nice.
What model year is it?

2017

You're in for a treat

Any recommendations on the break in?
The manual says to "avoid prolonged operation above 1/3 throttle".

I've been letting it warm up for a minute. Then a short ride just cruising before going through the first 3 gears, getting the revs up. and then engine breaking back down.  Doing that a few times, Then a ride around town and shut it off.

Yamabro57 wrote:

Any recommendations on the break in?

Don't get to the rev limiter