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 New Memeber Pittsburgh PA area

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db5304




PostSubject: New Memeber Pittsburgh PA area   Sat Jan 21, 2017 8:11 pm

Just got my WR delivered today.  Did tons of reading over the last couple of months and decided on a WR.  Looked around for a while at the used market (practically non existent), went to a dealer and they had a trashed one.  Had a really nice klx that I rode and wasn't sure about, they insisted i rode the new wr and I fell for it and bought it.  No mods besides battery tender and ram mount.  It was 60 out today so I went riding and got her muddy.  I was sliding everywhere in the mud and had a hard time.  It was much tougher than I expected it to be but I could get some rhythm down and not get stuck all the time.  I stalled this more than I think i've stalled anything else combined.  I'm looking for some tips to see if its something I'm doing wrong.  From what I read, it may be the trialwings, but i've left the suspension stock so far as well.  I did lower the rear from 29 to 24 psi, and left the front at 22 which is where it came.  The tires just sucked up the mud and hung onto it.   Below are the pics next to my FJ in the garage when it first arrived, and then muddy.  I Plan to do a in this order hdb handguards +mirror and new bars, bashplate,  usb outlet, tires (if they are my problem), rear rack, and then maybe pegs, tank, seat.

Should I run a lower pressure?  I only did a couple miles to get to the trails, but its a stretch of 40mph.  I doubt the suspension will help me in the mud, but still need to play with this.  



Notice the caking of mud to the tire, this had me struggling and I couldn't get up any hills that were not dry.



Also wondering, do you all suggest cleaning before putting away every time? I hosed it down and lubed the chain a bit.  I need to get the chain a bit better, but that mud is kind of stained on, I need to wash it better, but not too worried at the moment.
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dicklane625

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PostSubject: Re: New Memeber Pittsburgh PA area   Sat Jan 21, 2017 10:02 pm

Welcome.

What kind of riding are you doing? This makes a big difference. But guessing 50/50 I'd change the mod priority list...

1st set. Tires n rim locks, gearing change, protection- skid plate, rad guard, hand gaurds, case saver... Yea I put case saver there... Take yours off n I bet it's already packed full of mud...

This really takes care of the essentials for hitting trails so it's personal preference with the next ones. There's some free stuff you can do too... Check tps sensor and adjust if necessary. Play with the co1 adjustment. There's a bunch of info on here n youtube about both... I think Yamaha might have fixed this issue already but it might be a good idea to go thro the swing arm linkages/bearings and steering bearings to add some lube. My bike is a 15. When I did it I found it came with/had plenty left from the factory... It doesn't take too long. It's good preventative maint n offers peace of mind that your not gonna be replacing parts soon. Also a bunch of threads on these issues too...

It's really a personal choice as to clean it after every ride, and how much. I've never heard of a bike being washed so much that something was damaged... Unless your doing something horribly wrong... If they use salt in your area stuff will corrode quickly if you don't tho...
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db5304




PostSubject: Re: New Memeber Pittsburgh PA area   Sat Jan 21, 2017 10:45 pm

dicklane625 wrote:
Welcome.

What kind of riding are you doing? This makes a big difference. But guessing 50/50 I'd change the mod priority list...

1st set. Tires n rim locks, gearing change, protection- skid plate, rad guard, hand gaurds, case saver... Yea I put case saver there... Take yours off n I bet it's already packed full of mud...

This really takes care of the essentials for hitting trails so it's personal preference with the next ones. There's some free stuff you can do too... Check tps sensor and adjust if necessary. Play with the co1 adjustment. There's a bunch of info on here n youtube about both... I think Yamaha might have fixed this issue already but it might be a good idea to go thro the swing arm linkages/bearings and steering bearings to add some lube. My bike is a 15. When I did it I found it came with/had plenty left from the factory... It doesn't take too long. It's good preventative maint n offers peace of mind that your not gonna be replacing parts soon. Also a bunch of threads on these issues too...

It's really a personal choice as to clean it after every ride, and how much. I've never heard of a bike being washed so much that something was damaged... Unless your doing something horribly wrong... If they use salt in your area stuff will corrode quickly if you don't tho...

Thanks for the info, good point about the case saver, it was packed with mud and grass. Was a pain trying to clean and i didn't get it all. I'll look at aftermarket, and possible chain guard too. But I will probably be 50/50, I'd like to be more trial if I could since I have a street bike, but the 50 will probably be travel to trails. How did you feel about the trailwings, did you do any mud riding? Almost forgot about rim locks as well, would like to do that and balancing myself, but for the rimlock install, might have a dealer do that.

I'll also check those lube points, already have the grease for it, also didn't see this during research (only the chain slider issue). Also hoping offroad is fine for breaking it, but I'm not ripping on it, but I'm also not really heat cycling it.
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mow-ree




PostSubject: Re: New Memeber Pittsburgh PA area   Sun Jan 22, 2017 12:51 am

Tires, tires, tires! Get rid of those trail wings. That alone will make a huge difference in the mud. Everyone has an opinion on their favorite tire but if your only street riding is to get to the trail and thats what you prefer to do, I'd go as aggressive as you can find thats still DOT legal. I've tried 50/50 tires on other bikes and I've never been a big fan. In my experience they just don't clear mud well. 90/10 if you're going to play in the mud frequently.
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wwguy

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PostSubject: Re: New Memeber Pittsburgh PA area   Sun Jan 22, 2017 1:28 pm

I have a similar "WTH?" moment when I first got my stock WRR and attempted to ride mountain trails with it. It seemed like I was either sliding or stalling all the time. Stock tires and gearing are no good for off-road riding on anything except maybe rolling forest roads. Knobbier dirt tires such as Dunlop D606 will give you better traction. Lower gearing will give you more power at the wheel and enable you to ride slower through technical terrain. which also means you'll stall less often.
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dicklane625

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PostSubject: Re: New Memeber Pittsburgh PA area   Sun Jan 22, 2017 4:36 pm

Most of the trails by me look like your pic so I replaced the rear fairly quickly. I did the mt21 front and d606 rear. I was gonna try a new rear when I replaced it last time, but decided against it. I was doing it so I'd have a fresh knobbie for the quarry run dual sport ride and didn't want to have to adjust to a new rear. The tire I pulled off is about half worn. I only have the trail wing to compare it against on this bike so I can't really say it's a bad tire, but I wanna try others... The thing I do like about it is when I've dropped in thick heavy mud the side knobs grip like crazy and traction is awesome. That's gotten me outa some situations that made me drop a loaf in my pants... A couple times it dropped to the point the swingarm was draggin n powered right out of it easy. The first time this happened it was a washed out pond bed n I was expecting my bike to disappear in it. It looked fine... It was fine until it dropped a foot in half a second... I did my own tire swapping n rim locks. It was a lil difficult the first time but really isn't that bad. I put in the motion pro lite locks and didn't balance. I don't think it's that bad... I do have some cuppin on my front tire tho. I've thought about throwin some weights on them but haven't yet.

Sandman and zeta make good case savers. I like the sandman cause it uses all three bolts. Dudes got a great response time. In shewolf's pic thread she made a cover and used part of the stock casesaver. If you have a dremel and some aluminum you could do that as a cheap option. I think the paw print is optional...

I haven't had any chain slider issues running stock or with my 12t front. I wanna swap to a bigger rear so I have a quick 12t/13t front swap option for slow/regular... Most of my offroad is still first n second with the 12t front. I think I'd go faster with lower gearing using more gears n the really difficult stuff I could tractor through easier... My chain sliders are fine with around 8k on the od. I do have some weird chain wear that I blame on the stock front sprocket... Kinda flattened out the inside of my chain but it hasn't gotten any worse since I switched to an aftermarket 12t... The wear matched up with the weird weights on the inside sprocket... I don't know what the purpose of them is but it's the only time I've seen them on a sprocket... I have a speedo drd too. It's a quick mod so you know your actual speed. Easy to adjust for gearin changes...
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db5304




PostSubject: Re: New Memeber Pittsburgh PA area   Sun Jan 22, 2017 11:22 pm

Thanks all, went out again today, and I think a d606 is the first thing I will be looking at. I may get some commuting miles in for my break in period and at least wear the trailwings down a little. Need to get rimlocks and tire wrenches first too. For gearing, i'm thinking about the recommended 14/50 for chain/sprocket combo, but not sure what chain length. I also read some people doing a 13/48 for dirt with a 112 chain and putting a 14t on for highway. I like this sounds of this alot, and if I know ahead of time, I can still keep an eye on the swingarm and chain guide.
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wwguy

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PostSubject: Re: New Memeber Pittsburgh PA area   Mon Jan 23, 2017 1:36 pm

I recommend having your wheels balanced if you install rim locks and plan to ride at highway speeds too.

I'm not sure who recommended 14/50 gearing.  That hasn't been a common combination in my experience in these forums.  Plenty of other riders are running other gearing combinations without any problems.  If anything I'd say that 13/47 or 13/48 are probably the most popular for combined dirt and street riding.

14/50 should work with 112 link chain, but you'll be near the max sprocket range for that chain.  I'm running 13/51 with 112, which is almost identical to 14/50 for chain length.  Personally I don't think I'd run 14/50 with 112 chain because that combination puts the same chain links on the same front sprocket teeth on every revolution.  The same holds true for 14/48 and 112 links, or any other combo where all the numbers are even.  13/48 with 110 or 112 chain are both much better for that, in that the same chain and tooth will only match on every 13 revolutions, theoretically resulting in more even chain and sprocket wear.

You can play around with gearing combinations, chain lengths, and their effects on speed, sprocket distance, and sprocket wear etc. at Gearing Commander's online calculator.
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dicklane625

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PostSubject: Re: New Memeber Pittsburgh PA area   Mon Jan 23, 2017 7:46 pm

wwguy wrote:
I recommend having your wheels balanced if you install rim locks and plan to ride at highway speeds too.

I'm not sure who recommended 14/50 gearing.  That hasn't been a common combination in my experience in these forums.  Plenty of other riders are running other gearing combinations without any problems.  If anything I'd say that 13/47 or 13/48 are probably the most popular for combined dirt and street riding.

14/50 should work with 112 link chain, but you'll be near the max sprocket range for that chain.  I'm running 13/51 with 112, which is almost identical to 14/50 for chain length.  Personally I don't think I'd run 14/50 with 112 chain because that combination puts the same chain links on the same front sprocket teeth on every revolution.  The same holds true for 14/48 and 112 links, or any other combo where all the numbers are even.  13/48 with 110 or 112 chain are both much better for that, in that the same chain and tooth will only match on every 13 revolutions, theoretically resulting in more even chain and sprocket wear.

You can play around with gearing combinations, chain lengths, and their effects on speed, sprocket distance, and sprocket wear etc. at Gearing Commander's online calculator.

I think it was your 51t rear post I saw... Did you raise your foot guard thingy on the chain to fit the 51t sprocket?
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wwguy

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PostSubject: Re: New Memeber Pittsburgh PA area   Mon Jan 23, 2017 8:54 pm

dicklane625 wrote:
I think it was your 51t rear post I saw... Did you raise your foot guard thingy on the chain to fit the 51t sprocket?

Yeah, I raised the rear of it a tiny bit by bolting a short extension bracket between the frame tab and the guard.  You can see it raised in the first photo below.  The short extension is hidden behind the guard.

I eventually became convinced that the guard was such flimsy plastic that it probably wasn't protecting much anyway, so I removed it and the mounting tabs as shown in the 2nd photo.  I haven't missed it since.

13/51 works great for trail riding with some occasional light pavement riding, but I wouldn't like it for freeway commuting or cross-country adventure trips etc.  I hit 65 MPH at around 8000 RPM.




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