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 So I uncorked her today...couple last questions to be sure

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Irishman301




PostSubject: So I uncorked her today...couple last questions to be sure   Sat May 13, 2017 1:18 am

The new FMF pipe just kept staring at me...I couldn't wait any longer. I had to do it. Unfortunately, I have to wait until Sunday to take her for a test ride.

So basically, what I've done so far is nothing that can't be "undone", which is the purpose of these questions.

What I did:

- Put on the FMF powercore slip on and the megabomb header (love the sound!)
- Attached the EJK programmer (I ordered the FMF, but they sent me this one...they said it was equivalent)
- Disconnected the 2 cables that were attached to the stock pipe, but I did not remove the servo motor. The cables are just hanging out there, which I don't mind.
- Removed the AIS, and capped off the airbox where the hose was and put the AIS metal cap thingy on to cover up the hole going into the engine.
- Removed the airbox door

Questions:

1.) Is the airbox door removal enough to really get the full power effect, or is it recommended to still go ahead and remove that circular solenoid and glue down or cut out the flapper?

2.) Is the EXUP/servo non-functional now since I removed the stock pipe? I'm not concerned about leaving it in place in case I ever decide to go back to the stock pipe.

3.) Are the factory settings for the programmer good enough to take care of the lean condition, or does it require programming in some numbers?

Thanks a lot...and sorry for the bombardment of questions recently. I've just been racking my brain reading all this stuff (I do the same thing every time I get a new toy), and I just wanna make sure that I'm optimizing the "uncorking" procedure since I'm doing all this work.

Thanks again!
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Biglake




PostSubject: Re: So I uncorked her today...couple last questions to be sure   Sat May 13, 2017 7:31 am

Taking the airbox door off gives it tons of air, it doesn't need any more than that.
Most of us who ride in wet areas don't like having the door off as it's lower than the stock opening and easier to get water in the airbox. This is why I cut the top up on mine, I need it to be as water proof as possible.

You can leave the servo's cables zip tied up out of the way as long as you want. The servo delete kit just gives you something to plug into the servo's plug so the CEL doesn't come on.

Ride it with the programmer as is and see how it works, it wont be too lean. The EJK settings maybe a little different than the fmf settings but the end result is the same.

You really only need to tune the second and fifth settings as the first one is always 3, the third one .5, the forth one 8 and the 6th one can be anywhere between 4 and 8 as your not adding fuel with the third one so it doesn't matter how fast you add it.
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Irishman301




PostSubject: Re: So I uncorked her today...couple last questions to be sure   Sat May 13, 2017 8:50 am

Nice thanks for the replies BigLake!

Did you also remove the circular solenoid and flapper in addition to the 2x2 hole? Or is just cutting the hole sufficient?

I may do that too instead of keeping the lid off. I'm just trying to figure out how much is 'enough' (I know I'm probably way overthinking things here, but that's how I roll Suspect ).
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Biglake




PostSubject: Re: So I uncorked her today...couple last questions to be sure   Sat May 13, 2017 12:28 pm

I also did a version of what's called the ultimate airbox mod along with the 2x2 hole above the filter.

If you want to get rid of the flapper and open it up a bit like the ultimate air box mod it only takes 2 minutes.
Take the circular solenoid off, stick a punch in the hole it leaves and hit it with a hammer. The hole flapper breaks off and falls into the airbox, you can pull it out of the air box door after its off. You could keep this piece and put it back on at some point if you wanted to go back to stock.

I did the flapper removal before cutting the hole so I don't know if just the hole is enough air but it probley is. It ran better after cutting the hole so IMO the ultimate airbox mod isn't giving it enough air if you have a pipe. You cant go back to stock easy if you cut a hole in the air box, you'd have to glue/rivet a patch on it to do so.

Gutting the flapper and cutting a 1x2 inch hole in the top of the air box door would be a good setup too, you'd be getting lots of air, you could buy a new air box door and glue the flapper assembly back on to go back to stock if you ever needed to.

IMO for the best/most power you need a air box opening almost as big as the air filter.
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Irishman301




PostSubject: Re: So I uncorked her today...couple last questions to be sure   Sun May 14, 2017 5:18 pm

Update for those who may be reading this in the future...

I tested it out today with the new exhaust and the EJK fuel programmer (the one they sent me in place of thr FMF...but apparently equivalent to it) set to its' stock settings, and the bike ran excellently. 

The only airbox mod that I did, was to remove the door, no flapper or circular solenoid removal and no cutting of any holes. 

I don't know if any more air intake or fuel adjustment is needed. I tested the bike through all ranges...Quick throttle blips, riding it like I stole it, and topping it out at highway speeds for a full mile. There were no cutouts or "dead spots" that I noticed. Then again, I'm no expert on this stuff. All I know is that when I twist the throttle, the bike goes....and it goes much faster now that it's uncorked Very happy.

I'm still riding stock gearing too. The bike feels like it wants to power wheelie a little bit in first gear, but I'm thinking that putting a 47T on the rear will help that out a bit. I may try a 49 or 50 later down the road as well.

My only regret is going with the powercore instead of the quieter Q4. It still sounds cool though nonetheless...way better then stock. However, it does kinda hurt my ears when I'm riding. I may wear earplugs. I play in a band full time too, so my eardrums are constantly taking a beating.

I'm wondering if it's worth trying to tweak the programmer in order to try and achieve some sort of optimal tuning, or if I should just leave it as is. The stock settings seem spot on. It's definitely night and day difference as it is now, so why fix if it's not broke?
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