It seems like the FMF programmer causes massive headaches!

I broke down and did it...I ordered all the stuff. I'm a junkie what can I say? Oh well, YOLO or something right?

I got the megabomb header, powercore pipe, 47T sprocket, and a new chain. I also got a 12T front sprocket since it came as a kit. Maybe I'll put that on too if I find that I want even lower gearing then 13/47. You can bet your sweet booty that I'll be opening up the airbox too .

I also picked up the FMF programmer as well because I liked the idea that you could tweak it yourself. However, now I've come to realize that no one seems to really have a solution as to what the perfect numbers are. In fact, after reading through all 15 pages of the programming thread, it seems that almost everyone is having some sort of issues.

It seems that there is a "starting point", and then the general consensus is to change the 5th number to "6" to eliminate some cutout issue. Other then that, there are like a million different combinations of numbers thrown around....in addition to a million different questions.

This has me a bit concerned.

I'm wondering if I should even go through with this uncorking procedure, or if I should leave unbroken things unfixed (although watching YouTube videos of uncorked WRs has been giving me wet dreams at night).

Has anyone actually figured this thing out yet??

You will be fine, lol. I have an EJK, Pipe, flapper mod and emmissions/Exup stuff removed and the programmer really helps the bike run better. IMO it really helps the bike lug down low. If your FMF is new it should be just like the EJK I have and I have been running 3, 2.5, .5, 8, 6, 4 for months without a single issue.

Been there done that... and now mostly back to stock including the EXUP valve which helps with the low end grunt and throttle response.

I started with the FMF and had issues with engine cutout at high speed. Switched the last three numbers to 8,8,8 if I recall and didn't have any more issues before I put the PCV on the bike. I wanted to go with the PCV since I had a guy who could dyno tune the bike for me. He did add fuel in some spots and take it away in others.

End result is the bike did have more top end speed and midrange pull but I lost some on the low end. With the type of riding I tend to do in the woods I did not like this trade off. So I went back to stock with the exception of removing the Catalytic converter from the stock pipe and no installing the AIS again. Fuel MPG went up about 10% when I went back to stock as well. If I didn't have a friend skilled in welding I probably would have installed the AIS and stock pipe with the cat back on the bike.

Overall the best bang for the buck I made on the bike was changing the sprockets to 13/48.

The biggest positive change I made to the bike was sending the suspension to GoRace and having it setup for me.

Oh yeah the Seat Concepts seat was a good move as well.

As far as the FMF programmer goes, like I said before I was able to get out of the intermittent engine cut outs at high speed by changing my settings. However, riding buddy has a WRR and still gets those engine cut outs with his FMF and he had tried all sorts of settings. For now he is living with the issue.

Thanks for the replies fellas. The exhaust and programmer came in the mail yesterday. I think I'm just going to play around with the gearing for now, and do the exhaust stuff after I finish breaking the bike in...maybe after like 2 oil changes or so.

I know I must sound crazy...just bought the bike, and I'm already doing all this stuff to it. But in all honesty, I think I actually enjoy working on my toys more then I actually like riding them . I'm happiest when I have the Joe Rogan Podcast on, a nice cold beer, and my bike is ripped apart. Every motorcycle or quad that I have ever owned has been like this...It's just how I roll!

I mod the crap out of all my off road toys asap too lol.

I've found the fmf settings except for the 5th one are spot on now. Run the 5th setting on 6 or higher.
Even with the 5th setting on 4 it will work great offroad, you only get the cutout while cruising at steady throttle in high gear then giving it a tiny bit of gas.

Most of the issues with the fmf programmer are from guys running settings they googled not what fmf tells em to. Not to sound like a dick but you wasted a bunch of time reading about fmf programmers that aren't the same as yours.
The programmers where changed half a dozen years ago to add more fuel on the acceleration mode so they'd work with big bores too, the original one was maxed out with a big bore and still lean.
The newer ones need the acceleration mode (the second setting) on 2-3, not 5-6 like the older ones.

Well I can't wait to take her for a test ride. Unfortunately I have to wait until tomorrow or the next non-rainy day, whichever comes first. I still have the stock gearing on there because I was beat after doing all the uncorking stuff. But that's all just final tweakage I guess...is that a word?

I'm wondering, is there anyone who just connected their programmer and just left it alone? Mine seems to run fine without needing to make any changes to the 'base settings', but then again I have no clue what the "perfect fuel curve" is supposed to feel like either.