What fuel mapping will work for me?

I removed the charchol canister, flapper and AIS today. I rode the bike to make sure it still worked. I noticed that the exhaust smelled a little rich, which isn't what I would expect after removing the flapper. My bike is at sea level, FMF header and Q4 and FMF programmer (i know that there are a couple of different models of programmers but this is just the fmf power programmer). I am running the stock settings that come on the programmer. I noticed that the bike stumbled when I first took off on the test ride but it was fine after that. I would like to know if I need to change the mapping at all after doing these mods. I would like to retain the fuel milage that I have benn experiencing. Thanks................John

Any further tweaking of the FMF programmer from what you have now will only hurt your fuel mileage even more. It's not a big change, but you do lose a few miles per tank full the more you turn up the gas on the programmer. I'm at sea level too. And I have the exact same mods you have except for a more open airbox setup than just the flapper mod. I have an X with 13/40 gearing and run 100% street. Currently I have my FMF programmer set to: 3,5,2,8,2,4.5

The bike runs like a bat outta hell as far as I'm concerned. I've tried a lot of combinations with the programmer and I think I have settled on these numbers. On average I get about 95-100 miles before the low fuel light comes on. In stock form I was getting to about 110-115 miles before the light came on. I'm not concerned with the lower mileage. It still beats the hell out of what my truck burns. I commute 35 miles a day with this bike, and it saves me a small fortune over a month's time. One of the reasons I bought it.

When you removed the charcoal canister, what did you do with the vent hose to the fuel tank? You should keep it up high above the fill cap or you may notice a little spillage when the tank is full. Other option is to cap that fitting off on the tank and buy a vented fill cap from the 49 state bikes. We don't have the canister, so the tank is vented through the cap on our bikes. Your California cap is non-vented.

I ran the vent line down to the skid plate but I am adding a "T" with a second line up higher under the seat for any long water crossings I might end up doing (never know). As far as mileage I would like to still get 90 or so before the light comes on. I am also a commuter with the bike. Does yours burn rich at all or was that just me.

if its a new pipe you just may be smelling the burn off. if not, its should be lean with more air flow and the same gas flow. i have my PC set for my Leo Vince exhaust.

Highfive (from Adv.) and Steveakus (from TT) have both done the same mods as you (if you ad a K&N airfilter) - had their WRR's Dyno tested and got just about the same result.

I ride with the same mods and FMF PP settings, and the bike runs like a dream.

I did not weigh my old tank and shrouds but it was easy to tell the Safari tank is heavier.
Thats OK by me because it is very stout and protects better then the stock panels.
Liking mine more everyday because although you can clearly see the gas it is not perfectly clear. That would really look cheesy.


Ron