Dummy with a dumb question

I have a dumb question....

For a start, the STOCK 08 WRs come with a slightly optimistic speedo indication and an accurate odo indication...right?

Now, when I change the rear sprocket (from 42 to 45), I know that the speedo will become even more optimistic... But how about the odo?

I do realise that with 42 I can get to 13XKM before the light comes on, and 15XKM with 45.... but the riding method could contribute a lot to it I think

Am I the only guy that swaps the sprocket?

I am asking this because I am thinking of getting the Spedo Healer to correct the odo (it affects the resell value, if I plan to do that)

mtb wrote:

Am I the only guy that swaps the sprocket?

I am asking this because I am thinking of getting the Spedo Healer to correct the odo (it affects the resell value, if I plan to do that)

The odometer will be off if you change sprockets. I don't have a speed healer but, I have read that it only fixes the speed error not the odometer. Read all about it here: http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=658793&page=6&highlight=speed+healer+odometer

proview wrote:

The odometer will be off if you change sprockets. I don't have a speed healer but, I have read that it only fixes the speed error not the odometer. Read all about it here: http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=658793&page=6&highlight=speed+healer+odometer

Thanks for the link... I have read it quite a number of times trying to understand it... but it's still quite vague

This is a screen shot of the SH FAQ....


From the SS, it seems to imply that:
1. you can get 100% accurate speedo with slower odo
OR
2. you can get 100% odo with faster speedo

It seems that you can get EITHER, but never BOTH

What do you guys think? (afterall... English is not my first language )

[/quote]

Thanks for the link... I have read it quite a number of times trying to understand it... but it's still quite vague

This is a screen shot of the SH FAQ....


From the SS, it seems to imply that:
1. you can get 100% accurate speedo with slower odo
OR
2. you can get 100% odo with faster speedo

It seems that you can get EITHER, but never BOTH

What do you guys think? (afterall... English is not my first language )[/quote]
Yeah, it's a little confusing. I would assume by the screen shot that if you use it to fix the odo error then the speedo will read same as stock..."off a little" It seems in stock form the odo is pretty accurate and the speedo is off. I guess you can figure what is most important to you and fix that. odo or speed error

proview wrote:

Yeah, it's a little confusing. I would assume by the screen shot that if you use it to fix the odo error then the speedo will read same as stock..."off a little" It seems in stock form the odo is pretty accurate and the speedo is off. I guess you can figure what is most important to you and fix that. odo or speed error

So I should be able to count on SH to correct the odo reading after sprocket/tyre change? (I don't really care about the speedo)

mtb wrote:

proview wrote:

Yeah, it's a little confusing. I would assume by the screen shot that if you use it to fix the odo error then the speedo will read same as stock..."off a little" It seems in stock form the odo is pretty accurate and the speedo is off. I guess you can figure what is most important to you and fix that. odo or speed error

So I should be able to count on SH to correct the odo reading after sprocket/tyre change? (I don't really care about the speedo)

That's what I see it saying. Basically what they are saying is, you can get back to stock but, not better than stock. You will still have the original errors which it came with(speedometer error). So, yes you can count on it doing what you want it to..correct the odo error after the gear change. Hope that clears it up for you

Just a thought i had since you are concerned about the odometer. If you correct for the speed error, the odometer should run slower . I say this because in stock form mine, and it seems everyone else has their speedometer reading faster than actual speed and the odometer reading pretty accurately. Not sure how much it will amount to in the end but, at least the speedometer will be right and the miles will rack up slower

Ya I understand what you are saying....

But it's hard to get correct speedo without any GPS-enabled device

And different bikes have different percentage of error (ranging from 1% to 10-over-%), so it's kinda hard to "guestimate" the actually percentage of error if I am to correct the speedo...

Odo on the other hand, seems to be more straight-forward... (with sprocket change from 42 to 45, the calibration is -6.7%)

Not sure whether I should invest one still

I like mine it was easy to set up with a GPS. I use it for the speedo though. It will fix the Odometer when you re gear but your speedo will still be optimistic. You just have to choose what is most important to you.

I know it's a little more expensive than a Speed Healer, but my Motoscope Mini tach also gives speed and odo numbers. I have the additional speed sensor mounted on the rear caliper and the Mini lets you adjust the speedo to match your tire diameter. So basically, I have an acurate speedo and odo if I want both at the same time. But I mainly use the Motoscope for the tach readings and rely on the stock meter for speed. I don't care about an acurate speedo. I have just gotten used to the fact that it reads high and adjust my riding accordingly when I see Officer Friendly near by...

YamWOW! wrote:

I like mine it was easy to set up with a GPS. I use it for the speedo though. It will fix the Odometer when you re gear but your speedo will still be optimistic. You just have to choose what is most important to you.

Mr. YamWow... Have you tried to calibrate the ODO? Can I just use the online calculator and select "NO" for "Compensate for factory speedo error" to get the procedures? I just need to be sure about this in case the guy who sells this is not exactly sure about what to do...

Mark... that thing looks sweet... but indeed kinda steep

I have 1 question though.... where does it obtain it's RPM reading? Does it connect to some RPM wire or reading from the pulse from the plug?

mtb wrote:

Mark... that thing looks sweet... but indeed kinda steep

I have 1 question though.... where does it obtain it's RPM reading? Does it connect to some RPM wire or reading from the pulse from the plug?

It gets the tach signal from the orange wire on the ignition coil. I spliced into it under the fuel tank and ran the wire up to the tach.

mwakey wrote:

It gets the tach signal from the orange wire on the ignition coil. I spliced into it under the fuel tank and ran the wire up to the tach.

So the orange wire from the plug head delivers the RPM signal?

good... time to think of extra gadgets for the X

oh ya.... what do you think will be the difference in oil pressure if I get it from the bleed bolt instead of the top of the filter cap like you did?

Ya, the orange wire that is in the plug on the ignition coil. DO NOT ( I repeat) DO NOT hook your tach up the red wire on that plug. There are only two wires going to the ignition coil. The red is 12 volts direct from the battery. It will fry your tach. Use the orange wire only. I am not sure what kind of tach you will get but you may want to check it out first. I don't know if they all will work by getting a signal from the orange wire. I know SheWolf has a small tach on her bike and it is a different kind than mine. I believe she has her signal wire wrapped around the ignition coil head itself, and not spliced into any wires. My tach came with instructions that said to splice into the wire. Some other tachs are induction type that only need a signal wire wrapped around the plug wire to work, but on our bikes there is no plug wire, so I am not sure how well it will get a true signal from wrapping it around the coil itself.

As for the oil pressure, I doubt you will see any difference is pressure from using the bleed bolt hole. Where my gauge is mounted it gets the pressure reading from the oil as it exits the filter. From there it goes through a passage up and around the cylinder and up to the bleed bolt hole area, so I don't think there will be any difference in pressure in that short distance. I had thought of using the bleed bolt hole and I even bought some banjo bolts that fit the hole, but I was at a loss as to where to mount the gauge. My plan was to use a banjo bolt in the bleed hole and then run a short stainless braided hose to a remotely mounted gauge. I just couldn't decide on a good spot to mount the gauge. Then I saw the thread on TT about the turbo kit for the WRX and saw that he had tapped into the oil filter cover and had a stainless line coming out of it for the turbo. I PM'd him and got the info on what size fittings he used, then I made my own setup with the gauge mounted directly to the fitting. It is simple and much less clutter. Some people have been concerned about my setup for off roading, worried it might break off. I can understand that and I probably wouldn't have done it if I had an R², but the kind of riding I will do will not be a problem IMO. It should be fine for mild trail riding and the street. And if it does break off I carry an emergency cap to clamp it off.

If you are thinking about using the bleed bolt hole, I can save you some time. The thread size of the bleed bolt hole is 8 x 1.25 mm. I had a VERY hard time finding a banjo bolt this size, and ended up getting one from Japan of all places! I got two just in case. I am sitting on them right now as I may just do something with them someday. I had thought of adapting some sort of oil cooler on the bike too, and that hole would be a great spot to get oil pressure. Only problem is where to put the return line from the cooler. I guess a fitting would have to added to the valve cover to dump the oil back into the system. Or maybe modifying the oil fill cap? There just aren't many places on this engine to add stuff like that. And I'm not too hip on drilling any NEW holes in my motor!

Thanks for the clear write-up Mark

I have a question... I am still Googling but think that it will be better to hear from more people...

What's a thread size 1/8 PT or 1/8 NPT?

Do you think a 1/8 PT/NPT bolt will fix the bleed screw?

No. The bleed bolt hole is straight thread. Pipe thread is tapered. It will not work and will not seal properly. Pipe thread will also damage the threads in the engine. That's why I thought of using a banjo bolt. It has straight threads and will seal with a crush washer just like the bleed bolt does now. Here are the goods...



And here it is assembled. Thread the bolt into the bleed hole and attach your stainless braided hose. The fitting on the hose end is AN4 (which is a fairly standard size for braided hose fittings)...

Thanks for the clarification

I suppose "8" is the bleed bolt?



Part Number: 95022-08012-00

I shall purchase one and find a proper way to hook a oil pressure sensor there..

oh ya by the way Mark, was it difficult to thread the top of the oil filter cover like you did? Any special instruction that I need to follow if I want to do that?

Yes, #8 in that diagram is the bleed bolt. I am not sure how hard it will be for you to find an oil pressure sensor that will fit that thread. You may need to use an adpapter or run a hose from the bleed bolt hole to another location and remotely mount the sensor. As you know by looking up in that area, there is not a lot of room for anything to be threaded into that bleed hole. The thermostat cover is right below it, and the throttle body is to the right and the head itself is very close on the left side of the bleed hole. Any sensor would have to be small enough to fit in there. You might have better luck using the banjo bolt like I said and run a hose from it to an area where you had room to mount a sensor.

As for the hole I made in the oil filter cover, you should read my post over at TT about installing the pressure gauge. I explained in good detail how I made the hole in the cover and what I used to do it.

CLICKY

mwakey wrote:

As for the hole I made in the oil filter cover, you should read my post over at TT about installing the pressure gauge. I explained in good detail how I made the hole in the cover and what I used to do it.

CLICKY

You did?

Guess I am not stalking you hard enough....

Good morning to you Mark, and to the forum people... Today is the day, that I shall end all my modifications (after I put on the pegs and PCIII... and maybe order the radiator guard... and maybe....... )

mtb wrote:

Today is the day, that I shall end all my modifications (after I put on the pegs and PCIII... and maybe order the radiator guard... and maybe....... )

Don't listen to him folks. He's lying!

MTB's wife/girlfriend ----->

So it's Saturday morning there and it's Friday night here. That means you have all day to get those new pegs mounted and upload some pics for us. I'm still up in the air on if I want different pegs. The stockers seem just fine to me so far. Maybe after a long trail ride I will have different thoughts. For now I have been sticking to the pavement and they work good enough for me. I think I would rather spend my "mod money" on something else right now, even though your pegs would look really nice on my bike.

If I had not destroyed my right peg, I would just stick to the stock...

but then again.... I just couldn't resist that black CNC beauty

Photos I will.... and I will WASH my bike before hand