The official WR250R/X weight reduction thread

just swapped my R wheels for X ones after riding dirt this weekend. Here is whats i have using a digital bathroom scale.


stock WRR wheels, tires, tubes, rotors, spacers and 48t alum rear sprocket


Front wheel complete 18.5 lbs

Rear wheel complete 25.8 lbs

total of 44.3 lbs


My stock WRX wheels complete with rotors, stock sprocket, spacers,tires (distanzias), tubes etc


Front wheel complete 23.5 lbs

Rear wheel complete 29.5 lbs

Total of 53 lbs

Hi

I sent Jim (the owner of Eastern Beaver) a picture of the plug required to bridge out the wiring when the side stand is removed. (to save chopping the cable)
He replied with the info it is a 'regular' 2P090wp-MT connector. (not a Special version)
Female part is $1.95 Plus shipping.

Regards Alan Case

anyone weight an emtpy stock metal tank vrs a 3G IMS tank?

Yes.

My son and I changed the oil on our bikes today. First oil change on his used bike. We both have Flatland skid plates and we found his was drilled out to make it lighter. I used the wifes kitchen scale to check and the difference is about 5 ounces.
Do you think 5 ounces down that low will make much of a difference?

RimBenty wrote:

My son and I changed the oil on our bikes today. First oil change on his used bike. We both have Flatland skid plates and we found his was drilled out to make it lighter. I used the wifes kitchen scale to check and the difference is about 5 ounces.
Do you think 5 ounces down that low will make much of a difference?

No, but the improved air flow and resulting cooling will. The holes in my Flatland are the large original ones on both of yours, but I had them add them across the front.

anybody makin an aluminum engine cradle, or an aluminum sub frame yet?

I am glad there is a weight loss thread for the WRR's. I rode mine to work today...one, to see how I like it on the road for longer than 3-5 miles at a time and how much it weighs. I have pallet scales here at work, and I can get the whole bike on there and not have to any of that front Wheeler/back wheel guessing game crap.

I also only believe in talking in wet weights, since that is how we ride the bikes. Dry weights, are often inaccurate from one make to another, and just a marketing tool. Useless.

Anyway, at this point, I have removed stock mirrors, counter sprocket plastic guard thing, rear passenger pegs, and reflectors. Stock tires and tubes also replaced.

I have installed Flatlands skid plate, Ivans case saver, and Moose bark busters with handguards. Pirelli XCMH tires installed with heavy duty tubes. Rear was ultra heavy duty and weighed a good bit. Also installed a 120/100 rear, instead of the 120/80 rear...did not realize I ordered the wrong size until I had mounted. I mistakenly thought they ran the same size tires as the DRZ 400's. Will fix with next tire swap.

Bike probably has about 3/4 tank of fuel.

299 lbs. I was hoping for more...but such is life.

I am planning on the flapper mod and AIS system removal ASAP.

Another bump of this thread.

At a recent event I took part in, one of the guys swore that he got his WRR down to 262 lbs. I do not see how that is even possible??
He did say his used a truck scale that went in 38 lb increments..which makes no sense anyway...but I am thinking it was 262 plus 38( one increment off) and really more like 300 lbs.

In road ready mode, as I had mentioned in last post, lowest I could go was 299 lbs. That was still with hand guard and skid plate, lights, etc.

For a more recent event, I took off all street needed stuff, rear lights, plate, plate holder, head lights, blinkers, etc, and only took off another 7 lbs..putting it near 292 lbs.

I don't care about dry weights, or theoretical weights, or truck scales( % error range on those is greater than total bike weight) weights..I just wanna know, with accurate scales, what the lowest actual weight anyone has gotten.
if you know about of gas in bike, that would help too..since gas weight can be factored in.

Thanks.

From my website:

When I got my WRR home, the first thing I did was weigh
the bike and take measurements. I drained the fuel tank so I could get
the empty weight; the WRR weighed 280 pounds. If you look at the Parts removed
list at the bottom of the page, you'll see that I removed about 20
pounds of parts during the course of doing my mods. I then added back
about 5 pounds of new parts, yielding a net loss of about 15 pounds.
This puts my WRR at around 265 pounds, ready to ride with no fuel.


A gallon of gasoline weighs 5.93 to 6.42 lbs (2.69 to 2.91 kg),
depending on temperature, type, and blend (e.g. with methanol, water,
benzene etc.). I filled the fuel tank with premium, non-ethanol gas
until it was full and even burped it to get the max in that I could -
8,100ml or 2.13 gallons. Using 6.25 pounds per gallon, I get about 13
pounds for fuel giving 278 pounds for the bike, ready to ride with a
full tank of gas.


WR250R Mods <-- linky

Rick, thanks for the reply.

I took off most of what you took off, and probably got 80% of the weight savings you did. I did leave on the stock blinkers and tail light assembly, as well as the side panels.

The blinkers, although big and bulky, are a really good design and really robust. My bike has seen hundreds of drops and other than one bulb itself imploding, they have held up great. I did have one of my rear ones snap loose and fall on the exhaust can..still works, but needs replacing.( I just got in spare parts from another member).

so, 299 that I got on a pallet scale, minus 13 lbs of gas at a roughly full tank, is 286 lbs.

Race ready, 286 lbs, minus 7 lbs for lights, blinkers, etc, still yields 279 lbs, with no gas.

I am gonna bring it to work again soon and see how much it weighs with no gas..not that the bike can be ridden with no gas.

Currently I've added 6 lbs. to my bike's overall weight (can't stop eating more during the holidays). I'll be taking that 6 pounds off the bike next year!

About how much would my bike weight with a case of bananas, two boxes of breakfast bars and a jacket??????

Mikechicago wrote:

About how much would my bike weight with a case of bananas, two boxes of breakfast bars and a jacket??????

Hey, wasn't that a question on the GRE post grad admissions test? Or SATs in sixth grade?

Back on topic... I replaced my front brake line lower clamp (unsprung weight) with two plastic cable clips fastened with mini zip ties. And does anyone know the weight difference between the aftermarket 3 gallon poly tank vs the stocker?

This may be a dumb question, but can anyone tell me why the R/X weigh so much more than the F ?????? Whats the extra 50 lbs from???

Quote :

Whats the extra 50 lbs from???

Reliability

Anybody got details?

Mikechicago wrote:

Anybody got details?

Their motor is probably a lot lighter and their frame is lighter. Their motor is built to win a few races, not last 50k miles. Our motors require probably 1/10th of the maintenance. Also, our frame is built with the knowledge that a person might ride on the bike and there might be luggage attached.

They also lack basic things you have to have on the road like... a kick stand, blinkers, mirrors, speedometer, license plate and brackets, catalytic converter, etc...

Anybody know the weight difference in wheel brands? I have warp 9 and they seem like they have the light hubs but they have heavy spokes.
Also some more weight savings ideas for those with precision instruments:
Misc. aluminum farkles like: water pump cover, oil drain plug, wheel spacers, etc.
Great thread!

Mikechicago wrote:

This may be a dumb question, but can anyone tell me why the R/X weigh so much more than the F ?????? Whats the extra 50 lbs from???

Electric start, Battery, Lights. Sidestand. Lot of weight right there.

I have just weighed my WRR here in Vancouver BC at the city garbage transfer station. Did I ever get weird stares when I pulled up onto the huge scale. The 140 kg conversion is 308 lbs. I have hacked up the air box, put on IMS 3.1 usg tank, have FMF everything , a Corbin seat that weighs 6.88 lbs (stock is 3.23 lbs), Tubliss system, Flatland skidplate & rad gard.

I love my bike, I just wished I could get the slow speed throttle on/off/on/off stupid feel more manageable. I think I'll try the G-2 Throttle Tamer rather than #@*^ around with the TPS behind the frame.

YAMAHAPPY wrote:

I love my bike, I just wished I could get the slow speed throttle on/off/on/off stupid feel more manageable. I think I'll try the G-2 Throttle Tamer rather than #@*^ around with the TPS behind the frame.

The most benefit comes from the TPS adjustment. I've doe the G2 and the adjustment. Save your money.

Just Bob wrote:

Mikechicago wrote:

About how much would my bike weight with a case of bananas, two boxes of breakfast bars and a jacket??????

Hey, wasn't that a question on the GRE post grad admissions test? Or SATs in sixth grade?

Back on topic... I replaced my front brake line lower clamp (unsprung weight) with two plastic cable clips fastened with mini zip ties. And does anyone know the weight difference between the aftermarket 3 gallon poly tank vs the stocker?

About six monkeys and a football....:) Very informative thread. did I mis the weight difference between the IMS 3 gal and stock tank somewhere? if so what was it?

I had always heard these bikes were heavy & it caused me to delay getting one. I went through mine removing the usual extra's.
I'm still running the original battery & tail light but I have HDB hand guards with mirrors an AXP skidpan, 4.7 tank. With two gallons of fuel it weighs within 5lbs of my KTM450XC which is set up almost exactly the same plus a scotts stabilizer. This is on the same electronic scale on the same day. The R2 has a speedo & my GPS mounted, the KTM does not. The KTM also has a Turntech battery, the R2 a lead acid still.
The R2 feels lighter at the bars, if I didn't have a scale I would easily believe it was 25lbs lighter.

My headlight got cracked the other day while riding. I was wondering where you got the Japanese spec headlight?

Thanks, Austin.