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 Relace

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Akasy





Relace Empty
PostSubject: Relace   Relace EmptyTue Nov 02, 2010 8:42 pm

Here is how I did a relace on the front wheel after a rock bent my rim--this is only how I did it and it is not meant to be guide.
Numbered the wheel both on the rim
Relace GEDC0001-3
and on the hub
Relace GEDC0007-2
removed the rotor
Relace GEDC0011-2
removed tire and tube
Relace GEDC0014-2
better pic of the problem area
Relace GEDC0015-2
Unlace
Relace GEDC0017-3
Removed the damaged rim
Relace GEDC0018-2
Began installation of new rim
Relace GEDC0020-2
Reinstalled spokes to original positons
Relace GEDC0026-2
Almost done
Relace GEDC0030-1
Off to my truing stand for radial and axial truing plus check for correct lacing of all spokes--yep got them right!
Minor tweaking of spokes and then double check on correct torque. Reinstall tube and tire-- All done in about 4 hours.
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ZED

ZED



Relace Empty
PostSubject: Re: Relace   Relace EmptyWed Nov 03, 2010 12:01 am

Interesting method. I wouldn't have thought of the numbering thing. thumb

With bicycle wheels we would relace a wheel by taping the new rim to the old, loosening the spokes a fair bit, then transferring them over one by one. I don't know if that will work on a motorcycle wheel but plan on finding out on my KLR at some point here. If that doesn't work I'll use the numbers trick as I haven't laced a wheel from scratch for a while and don't feel like re-learning with beefy motorcycle spokes.

I'm curious about how you checked the spoke tension. On a bicycle I just did it by ear. With a motorcycle wheel I'm not sure...

Also, do you have a proper truing stand to use or something make-shift. I'm thinking of using my wheel balancer.
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Akasy





Relace Empty
PostSubject: Re: Relace   Relace EmptyWed Nov 03, 2010 8:54 am

I built my truing stand--welded it up from steel. I supose it could be a balance stand but I don't balance my tires. I don't use a spoke torque wrench as that can lead to issues with my truing, as long as I can get a dial indicator or solid fixed pointer properly aligned I prefer that method. Of note, on the initial lace on this whell I made sure all spokes are threaded to the same initial point. For example on this one I noted that equal threads equated to the nipple just covering the last thread on all spokes--worked well as my initial start point with very little adjustment needed from there to final tightening.

ZED wrote:
Interesting method. I wouldn't have thought of the numbering thing. thumb

With bicycle wheels we would relace a wheel by taping the new rim to the old, loosening the spokes a fair bit, then transferring them over one by one. I don't know if that will work on a motorcycle wheel but plan on finding out on my KLR at some point here. If that doesn't work I'll use the numbers trick as I haven't laced a wheel from scratch for a while and don't feel like re-learning with beefy motorcycle spokes.

I'm curious about how you checked the spoke tension. On a bicycle I just did it by ear. With a motorcycle wheel I'm not sure...

Also, do you have a proper truing stand to use or something make-shift. I'm thinking of using my wheel balancer.
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