The Official FI Mapping Area

fmf pc4
screwed down airbox lid
stock air filter
ais removal

i have a little bit of sputter when i pep the throttle off of idle
what should i set the fmf programmer settings to?

what settings should i change if i add a fmf header and a no toil high flo filter?

So I got a full fmf system with the power comander and I was wondering is anyone could shoot me a setting that they've found to be the best.
I haven't done any over the airbox mods, I'd just like to keep my airbox the way it is.

Cheers guys.

Finally got the FMF programmer installed and man it's like a new bike!

If anyone could suggest what numbers would be best for me i'd be very greatfull.

I'm from London so the temperature basicly stays between 5 degrees to 20 degrees.
Atitude is around 100ft.
FMF powerbomb and q4.

Thanks!

Hello everyone,

I have a 09 wr250x with those mods:

-FMF programmer
-FMF mega bomb header
-FMF power core 4
-Flapper mod
-Stock spocket
- 400 ft. above the sea level

Actually, I run this setup but I don't really know if i'ts the one I should : 3-5.5-.5-8-4-4.5

Should I change some numbers to have the ultimate performance ?

Thank you

Yan

How old is the fmf programmer?

If its pre 2010 those settings except for the 5th one are fine, run that one on 6.

If its 2011 or newer, run fmf settings except for the 5th one run it on 6. Ie 3-2-.5-8-6-4.5

This comes up a bit as the programmer info on this site (and the others when you google it) is mostly for the original fmf programmer which didn't add as much fuel on the acceleration mode as the programmers made after 2010 or so.

Biglake wrote:

How old is the fmf programmer?

If its pre 2010 those settings except for the 5th one are fine, run that one on 6.

If its 2011 or newer, run fmf settings except for the 5th one run it on 6. Ie 3-2-.5-8-6-4.5

This comes up a bit as the programmer info on this site (and the others when you google it) is mostly for the original fmf programmer which didn't add as much fuel on the acceleration mode as the programmers made after 2010 or so.

Thanks a lot

Hey guys. I just got myself a 2008 wrx and the previous owner has it mapped to run 104 octane fuel (before the stroker kit). I'm looking for some assistance finding the right maps for the PCV. I would ideally like to run premium pump fuel.

Here are the mods

FMF full power bomb exhaust
port and polished intake
263 stroker
air box mod

Any help is greatly appreciated

With a custom stroker motor your going to need a custom tune.
I've never seen a 263 wrr before, most guys with the stroker crank have a big bore too.

If you can find a tune from a 280 or 290 kitted wrr with exhaust and modded airbox it might be close enough to run well but a little rich.

Ok I dont want to be changing my tune alot so what should I do for a 2013 WR250R with FMF programmer?
Mods:
-FMF Powerbomb and Q4
-AIS removed
-Air boxed flapper open
-K&N air filter
-Gearing Stock

I am looking for the most power I can get but not be hard on the engine. Would that sacrifice fuel economy?
Sorry just got this bike so I am pretty new to this.

Hey all,

I've done the Ultimate Airbox Mod (opened up the airbox and removed the solenoid and crap), have a K&N filter, and just installed the FMF programmer. Also running 13-45 gearing.. I'm at 4,500 feet, wondering what ideas anyone has?
I've tried the suggested on FMF's website, of 2,.5,.5,8,7,4 as well as SheWolf's 1.5,2.5,1,8,4,4.5 as well as a few in between. Although throttle response has smoothed out a ton, I'm feeling like there is still more power to be had then I'm feeling. What If I pulled the spark arrestor? Any tips for my current setup?

Thanks for the help.

RkBoss wrote:

Hey all,

I've done the Ultimate Airbox Mod (opened up the airbox and removed the solenoid and crap), have a K&N filter, and just installed the FMF programmer. Also running 13-45 gearing.. I'm at 4,500 feet, wondering what ideas anyone has?
I've tried the suggested on FMF's website, of 2,.5,.5,8,7,4 as well as SheWolf's 1.5,2.5,1,8,4,4.5 as well as a few in between. Although throttle response has smoothed out a ton, I'm feeling like there is still more power to be had then I'm feeling. What If I pulled the spark arrestor? Any tips for my current setup?

Thanks for the help.

Try 13/48 gearing.

You do know it is a 250 right? I mean a relatively low stressed 250 with long maintenance intervals.

HI.
New member here. Just got a 2009 WR250X It had a FMF programmer installed by previous owner.
I read it here that there is different settings for a pre 2010 programmers.
How can i tell if my FMF programmer made before or after 2010?
Thanks

This will be a 2 part message of sorts. Part 1 will be about my particular set-up and the FMF Power Programmer settings I've chosen (so far). I'm dropping this here mainly as 1 more data point, for anyone searching for others with the "same configuration". Part 2 will be a lingering question:

Part 1
Here is my set-up: FMF Q4, stock header, AIS and EXUP delete (probably not relevant), a close approximation of the Ultimate Air Box mod, stock foam filter at the moment. Here is my relevant environment detail: High desert, dry air, 3600+ft (and I generally ride up from here).

The settings that I'm running now: 2.5, 4.5, 0.5, 8, 5.5, 4

I arrived at the above by starting at the magical 3,5,0.5,8,4,4. My bike didn't seem to be pulling very hard with those settings. I thought I might be running a bit rich due to altitude. So I pulled the green and yellow (1 and 2) each down by 0.5. The WR responded well to that adjustment. I thought I might just leave it there. But then I had the 60mph cut-out that a lot of others have observed. The prevailing opinion seems to be to boost the 5th setting up to 6 if this happens. But I've heard little talk of trials with the settings between 4 and 6. I bumped mine arbitrarily up to 5.5, and haven't had the cut-out again. At least not in the next 60 miles or so (all I've ridden it so far). This leads to the next part.

Part 2
Why "6" for that 5th setting. Does anyone know why 4 is working for some folks and not others? Has anyone tried anything between 4 and 6? As I understand it, raising this setting delays adding fuel during acceleration. My gut feeling is that I shouldn't raise it more than is needed to correct the problem. I'm curious if others just jumped all the way to 6 or stepped up until the cut-out went away?

Thanks.

I can't seem to get my bike dialed in.
I have an FMF powercore slip on
ripped the top of the airbox off (ultimate airbox mod?)
I currently have a K&N filter in the bike, however I have a no toil foam one sitting here
ais removed
ex up removed
I didn't think elevation and stuff mattered with EFI?  isn't that for the carb guys?  I thought you pick a setting and it figures out the rest?

I am currently trying the "magical
3 5 .5 8 4 4
This seems to work semi decent, but if I let off the throttle and then crack it to wide open I don't get a good throttle response. It hesitates and cuts out before coming online. I can't figure out if I'm too rich or too lean, or which setting to try and change

Any help is appreciated.

Knobby wrote:

Part 2
Why "6" for that 5th setting. Does anyone know why 4 is working for some folks and not others? Has anyone tried anything between 4 and 6? As I understand it, raising this setting delays adding fuel during acceleration. My gut feeling is that I shouldn't raise it more than is needed to correct the problem. I'm curious if others just jumped all the way to 6 or stepped up until the cut-out went away?

Thanks.

It depends on how much fuel your adding on acceleration mode (the second setting), if your running it borderline too rich you need to add the fuel a bit slower so it doesn't cut out. If you run the acceleration mode towards the leaner side you can run the 5th setting lower. Lowering the second setting will also stop it from cutting out but the bike pulls a touch harder with that setting a hair rich so no one wants to lean it out. The 2nd and 5th settings go hand in hand, if ones set high the other needs to be.

I tried mine with the 5th setting on 4 and it cut out often, so I put it on 6. The bike runs good enough with the settings I have I cant be bothered to mess with them so I haven't tried it on 5 or 5.5.

PrettyRicky218 wrote:

I can't seem to get my bike dialed in.
I have an FMF powercore slip on
ripped the top of the airbox off (ultimate airbox mod?)
I currently have a K&N filter in the bike, however I have a no toil foam one sitting here
ais removed
ex up removed
I didn't think elevation and stuff mattered with EFI?  isn't that for the carb guys?  I thought you pick a setting and it figures out the rest?

I am currently trying the "magical
3  5  .5  8  4  4
This seems to work semi decent, but if I let off the throttle and then crack it to wide open I don't get a good throttle response.  It hesitates and cuts out before coming online.  I can't figure out if I'm too rich or too lean, or which setting to try and change

Any help is appreciated.

Drop the second setting to 2 or 3 and it will run better without the hesitation.
If it cuts out while giving it some gas while cruising in high gear up the fifth setting to 6.

The magical settings are for older different fmf programmers that added less fuel on the second setting( acceleration mode) it needs to be set lower (ie 2) on any new fmf programmer you buy now. I think a mod should delete this entire section of the forum as its full of useless settings that don't work on any fmf programmer newer than 2010 or 2011.

FMF's recommended settings are pretty good now, if it cuts out just up the fifth setting to 6, they got the rest of them really close.

Biglake wrote:

Drop the second setting to 2 or 3 and it will run better without the hesitation.
If it cuts out while giving it some gas while cruising in high gear up the fifth setting to 6.

The magical settings are for older different fmf programmers that added less fuel on the second setting( acceleration mode) it needs to be set lower (ie 2) on any new fmf programmer you buy now. I think a mod should delete this entire section of the forum as its full of useless settings that don't work on any fmf programmer newer than 2010 or 2011.

FMF's recommended settings are pretty good now, if it cuts out just up the fifth setting to 6, they got the rest of them really close.

UPDATE: dropping the second number to 2.5 made it worse. When I crack the throttle it cuts out. hmmmm

Thanks Biglake!  This gives me something to do today.  I'll try and play around with it.  
You mention FMFs recommended settings, however I'm not sure what those settings are?  It wasn't written or typed on the programming sheet I got with the programmer.
And in all fairness I do not have an FMF programmer exactly.  I called FMF trying to buy one, but they said due to the emission laws in the sweet state of California FMF had discontinued making/selling the programmers.  They told me that Dobeck made their programmers and makes a bunch for other companies as well that simply put their logo on it.  So I have a Dobeck EJK programmer, but from my understanding it is literally the exact same thing.  
I'll keep you guys posted how my changes work out.

I have all the common mods everyone else has.
Someone should have some settings for me to try.
I just have a slip on, opened airbox
no ais or exup.
This is standard stuff.

Biglake wrote:

Knobby wrote:

Part 2
Why "6" for that 5th setting. Does anyone know why 4 is working for some folks and not others? Has anyone tried anything between 4 and 6? As I understand it, raising this setting delays adding fuel during acceleration. My gut feeling is that I shouldn't raise it more than is needed to correct the problem. I'm curious if others just jumped all the way to 6 or stepped up until the cut-out went away?

Thanks.

It depends on how much fuel your adding on acceleration mode (the second setting), if your running it borderline too rich you need to add the fuel a bit slower so it doesn't cut out. If you run the acceleration mode towards the leaner side you can run the 5th setting lower. Lowering the second setting will also stop it from cutting out but the bike pulls a touch harder with that setting a hair rich so no one wants to lean it out. The 2nd and 5th settings go hand in hand, if ones set high the other needs to be.

I tried mine with the 5th setting on 4 and it cut out often, so I put it on 6. The bike runs good enough with the settings I have I cant be bothered to mess with them so I haven't tried it on 5 or 5.5.

Thanks Biglake, that makes sense. I guess if it isn't cutting out at 5.5 I'll just leave it there (unless I adjust the acceleration fuel setting). All in all I am tempted to leave my settings as is, since the bike is running good. But, having not ridden anyone else's modded WRR, it is hard to know if it could be even better with just a bit more tweaking.

I drive at sealevel in Germany, i have got a 2015 model with a Powerbomb header, Fmf Q4 and a glued down airboxflapper. I use the Fmf- programmer (which seems to be the same as the EJK's). I tried every settings from this forum- they gave me Cut outs, Stutter (sometimes it Sems that the bike Runs in the Rev. limiter- at ~6000rpm). I use Dobeck's alternate Stage 1 settings (3/2,5/0,5/4,5/3,5/2)- this settings are the absolutly best for my bike. Dobeck also recommemded these settings for highspeed- on-road-driving and/or hight altitudes!
Why did not anybody here tried this settengs?
I also know from my local Yamaha-Dealer that we dont need to play with the Co1 settings on the display: this settings are only to correct the idle-speed. You set them to 0(zero) and adjust the idlespeed with with the idlespeed-screw on the left side of the motocycle to 1550rpm.After that you reduce the number until you reach your "local" emmision standart. If you ad an highflow Airfilter or an aftermarket exhaust you have to raise up that number (max. +1 or +2) till you get the correct idlespeed between 1450-1650 rpm...

P.s. I noticed that you loose Power at Full throttle with that alternate settings. But if you raise up the red/blue settings from 2 to 4 or 5 you fix that

Knobby wrote:

This will be a 2 part message of sorts. Part 1 will be about my particular set-up and the FMF Power Programmer settings I've chosen (so far). I'm dropping this here mainly as 1 more data point, for anyone searching for others with the "same configuration". Part 2 will be a lingering question:

Part 1
Here is my set-up: FMF Q4, stock header, AIS and EXUP delete (probably not relevant), a close approximation of the Ultimate Air Box mod, stock foam filter at the moment. Here is my relevant environment detail: High desert, dry air, 3600+ft (and I generally ride up from here).

The settings that I'm running now: 2.5, 4.5, 0.5, 8, 5.5, 4

I arrived at the above by starting at the magical 3,5,0.5,8,4,4. My bike didn't seem to be pulling very hard with those settings. I thought I might be running a bit rich due to altitude. So I pulled the green and yellow (1 and 2) each down by 0.5. The WR responded well to that adjustment. I thought I might just leave it there. But then I had the 60mph cut-out that a lot of others have observed. The prevailing opinion seems to be to boost the 5th setting up to 6 if this happens. But I've heard little talk of trials with the settings between 4 and 6. I bumped mine arbitrarily up to 5.5, and haven't had the cut-out again. At least not in the next 60 miles or so (all I've ridden it so far). This leads to the next part.

Part 2
Why "6" for that 5th setting. Does anyone know why 4 is working for some folks and not others? Has anyone tried anything between 4 and 6? As I understand it, raising this setting delays adding fuel during acceleration. My gut feeling is that I shouldn't raise it more than is needed to correct the problem. I'm curious if others just jumped all the way to 6 or stepped up until the cut-out went away?

Thanks.

Just FYI, for those seeking the right settings, I ended up switching to the EJK recommended settings (I believe they manufacture the old FMF Power Programmer):
GRN @ 3
YEL @ 2.5
RED @ 0.5
G/B @ 4.5
Y/B @ 3.5
R/B @ 2

Although those numbers are quite different than my previous settings, it seems to run about the same (note: I also switched to a No-Toil air filter). So, unless I find any fuel mileage or heat issues (none so far), I think I'll just leave it.

Hi guys. I'm looking for DynoJet PCV map for my setup:

-flapper mod (airbox is door is closed - flapper screwed)
-ais removed
-exup removed
-catalytic converter cut out

Does anybody know where can i get map appropriate for this settings ?
I've loaded "open airbox door" map. It's good but the map seems too rich at low rev's

Thanks !

Stigy wrote:

Hi guys. I'm looking for DynoJet PCV map for my setup:

-flapper mod (airbox is door is closed - flapper screwed)
-ais removed
-exup removed
-catalytic converter cut out

Does anybody know where can i get map appropriate for this settings ?
I've loaded "open airbox door" map. It's good but the map seems too rich at low rev's

Thanks !

Go to the Power Commander Website (http://www.powercommander.com/powercommander/product-details.aspx?mdlyrid=22-016&make=28&model=96&make-n=Yamaha&model-n=WR250X/R&year=2012&mk=28&mdl=96&yr=2247 ) and download either map 22-016-001 and/or 22-016-002 and give those a shot.

You could always pull the door off your airbox and see how it runs with your current map. Pretty easy to take off and put back on.

I'm running on 22-043-002 (43 instead of 16 is for fuel and ignition model). It's quite ok with airbox lid removed, but I want it on when I go across streams. That's why I'm asking about this map. I think 001 can be too lean for my setup. It would be fine if I have CC and EXUP on.

These setting did not work for me with the FMF programmer I bought in 2016 that supposed to  be identical to  the EJK. The engine cuts out a speed on the road. Fine for  slow speed off road.
I ended up with Biglake/CRFan1 recommendation  of 3, 2.5, .5, 8, 6, 4 . It's very close to  FMF recommendation.
BTW, this is with full exhaust Q4 system emissions stuff removed and the airbox mod.










Just FYI, for those seeking the right settings, I ended up switching to the EJK recommended settings (I believe they manufacture the old FMF Power Programmer):
GRN @ 3
YEL @ 2.5
RED @ 0.5
G/B @ 4.5
Y/B @ 3.5
R/B @ 2

Although those numbers are quite different than my previous settings, it seems to run about the same (note: I also switched to a No-Toil air filter). So, unless I find any fuel mileage or heat issues (none so far), I think I'll just leave it. [/quote]