Cheapest DIY Servo Bypass

I did the resistor mod and I didn't receive the error code, but I ended up using smaller screws for the battery retention strap bracket to compensate for the servo no longer being there. I read somewhere that you can remove the spacers from the servo and still use the stock screws. I'm sure the answer is obvious, but I can't figure out how to remove the rubber spacers from the motor. I got the plastic caps from the back of them removed, but that's as far as I got with it. Could anyone tell me how to remove the rubber spacers without damaging them? They seem like they could tear pretty easily.

Did you try to push the metal collar out of the rubber spacer, thats the only part you need and they should come out easily.

Oh! I was thinking that I had to get the rubber out as well. Okay. I should be able to figure it out now. Thanks!

LordEndo wrote:

Fair enough. Fuzzy feedback but as you said it works right!

So now I'm about to do the removal - has anybody noticed any long term effect of the resistor vs. Steveakus's circuit? Any more opinions on power difference?

LordEndo wrote:

HighFive installed a bypass that a guy named Steveakus designed - http://www.wrrdualsport.com/tech-guide/electrical/84-exupremoval
Steveakus details his circuit and reasoning here - http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/597178-new-free-servo-sub-diagram/

Some of the posters who are using the Steveakus circuit feel that they're experiencing power improvements on the bottom and top end.

In my case, I've just installed an FMF powerbomb and Q4. With the powercommander that's going in next I doubt there's going to be much need to tweak the mixture through another circuit. Opinions?

I'm curious on how the resistor users are finding their bypass now that it's three years later.

3 years, 20k miles later, same old resistor, with no problems. All it does is prevent the cel from throwing. It has no other function. I've squeezed all the power i can from this motor, & it is enough. I can cruise on the pavement at 70, or rumble along gnarly trails. I still get mpg in the 60's & it runs fine with minimal maintenance. I've got a valve check coming up, but other than oil & filter changes, & broken turn signals, i've not had any issues with this bike. It is as reliable as my old drz, which is a well known low maintenance ride.

It seems the amount of resistance is not critical.. as you see in this thread, many different levels of resistance have worked. It is important to have the exup hooked up so the cel is off, before you do the mod. Evidently, the resistor will keep the cel from coming on, but it will not turn it off, once it is on.

I did mine today, 2012 WRR. used a 10K resistor from radio shack. good so far.

Thanks for all your inputs guys/gals! Going to Circuit City today (Canada's version of Radio Shack) to pick up a 1/4W - 10ohm Resister. Going to take out the entire EXUP system and install my full FMF exhaust (Q4 and Power bomb).

I have not yet purchased a Fuel Programmer (will be buying the Dynojet PC 5 in the spring). Would I run the bike to lean with the full exhaust and no fuel programmer? thanks in advance!

SheWolf wrote:

The light want away with ONE little resistor, not a bunch and diodes.

Is this resistor a 1/4W in a 7.5ohm or is this one a 10ohm? reason I'm asking is I purchased a bundle (bundle of 75 and there is NO listing to show exactly which one is the proper Ohm). so I will try and find the same color coding as I'm assuming they are all the same.

thanks.

1.1M ohm unless I'm reading it wrong.  Looks like 1/4 watt in pic. Brown brown green purple?

LordEndo wrote:

1.1M ohm unless I'm reading it wrong.  Looks like 1/4 watt in pic.  Brown brown green purple?

thanks for the help. The online Color coding for Resistors doesn't give a Purple (or violet) as the last color options. Thus it's Violet, Green, Gold, Gold which is 7.5K ohm. got it!

Well....I think there is a violet tolerance band now.  From electronics class 20 years ago (ahem....) I only remember gold and silver, but....apparently there's others.  

http://www.digikey.com/en/resources/conversion-calculators/conversion-calculator-resistor-color-code-4-band

The problem I'm having with the pic is that I can't tell left or right on the resistor.  Normally (if memory serves) there is a larger space between the three bands and the tolerance band.  Also, I'm not so sure those are gold and not brown bands.  Anyway.....it's all kind of a moot point.  Verify the resistor with a multi meter and then you know what you've got.  I put in an 8.2k ohm (from a multi resistor kit like yours) which was gray, red, red I think.

Gold is a 0.1 multiplier (according to digikey) so you have a 7.5 ohm (not 7500) with violet green gold if violet is on the left.

With all this action some electronics whiz is bound to chime in......

Pulled out that hunk of a servo motor today, went to the drawer and pulled out a 10K resistor, plugged it in and wrapped it up. No light and I'm a happy camper. Great mod!

Another success story for the el-cheapo bypass. I had 2 5.6K Ohm resistors sitting around and stuck them in the connector: no FI error and all is fine.

Another happy "customer" for the resister-mod. I used a 1/4w 10k resister.

Thanks for the effort.

I mucked around with my circuit board and even produced two lovely examples of the mod from the diagrams on this site. Neither worked because I must have rushed something or suffered poor soldering. Didn't matter - I enjoyed myself doing the DIY and then just rammed a resistor in the socket and got on with the riding.

There clearly is a wide range of resistances that will suffice, as others here have mentioned. For example, we know that 10,000 ohms works as attested to by many, but the range actually goes pretty low. The OP's picture shows 2 resistors in parallel. By the color bands (Orange-White-Red) these are 3.9k ohms. Resistors in series add while resistors in parallel divide. So two 3.9k resistors in parallel (as shown in the original post) would give you 1950 ohms.

Someone who has a Grave's unit (not me 'cause I'm too cheap) should use an ohm meter to check the two pins in question and see what resistance they're using.

whats the reason to remove the Servo, and also what is the Exup?

Exup is a "valve" in the downtube/header of the exhaust.
The servo operates this.

You can disable the exup, and still have the servie in place, but by doing this servo-mod you can remove the weight and bulk of the servomotor.

Hey guys so I removed the servo just now. Went to radio shack and got couple resistors. They only had 10k 1/2 watt. And 4.7k and 3.9k resistors. So I can run a single ok or 1 4.7 and 1 3.9 . Which way to go? Does it have to be exactly 7.5k? Usually with resistors there is a range that works. I just don't want plug the wrong one and mess up my ecu or something.

morning,
so installed the 10k resistor and I think it worked, no Cell light so far. is there a way to check through the onboard Diag?

SheWolf wrote:

Yep!  Just make sure you don't start up the bike before you put the resistor in or you'll throw the code.  

What can I do if I did start the bike up before doing the mod? My CEL is on but I want to do this mod. Thanks!

Cal44 wrote:

What can I do if I did start the bike up before doing the mod? My CEL is on but I want to do this mod. Thanks!

Just go ahead with the mod; the CEL will go away.