Inner Clutch Hub

Lately my "X" has been difficult to shift into neutral, lurching, and sometimes stalling. So I bought new clutch plates, springs, steel plates, and a pressure plate.

Well took it all apart and found this...



it's on the inner clutch hub. The outer, more expensive, one doesn't have any. Think this could be the culprit? I ordered a new one. Bike has 10,000 miles. 6k from the P/O. I won't lie. I've been wheeling the crap out of it as well. Also, does anyone know the torque spec of the big nut holding the inner clutch hub/Clutch Boss down?

Looks normal.
Since you have a new one on the way, may as well install the new one.

Think it's fine? I can probably still cancel the new one.

It depends on the depth of those spots. It's a bit tough to tell from the pictures, but if they're just polished spots I'd call it good. If you can feel low spots they'll cause some funky/grabby clutch engagement. The deeper they are the worse it will be.

I'm worried this is what I'll find when I open mine up next year...

Yeah, you can feel the indents with your finger. Im just going with the new one for the sake of keeping everything new and worry free. Does anyone have a clue as to the torque spec of the nut holding the main gear and clutch basket in place?

You can draw file them out if they aren't "too" deep. I have done it for years, Eric Gorr (engine builder/tuner) even describes how to do it in his books.

I've been told to file them out as well. That you can do it twice and then get a new hub. I'll toss in the new one and keep this old one. I'll file it and keep it as the back up. From what I gather. It's only a temporary fix. Hence why only do it twice. Thanks for all your advice guys. Maybe when I get a chance i'll wash the thing and post up some pictures.

I guess I abuse my clutch less than others. I've done it and had it last the whole time I've owned the bike. I don't wheely with the clutch so that could be why.