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crazy_dave
DragonNester
mucker
motokid
FTWeather
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FTWeather

FTWeather



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PostSubject: SHORT Intro...LONG question (Part 2) : )   SHORT Intro...LONG question (Part 2)  : ) EmptyFri Nov 16, 2012 12:02 am

Hi guys/girls,
new member here. picked up NEW to me 2010 WR a few days ago... have read many posts/threads on the Mods and have found answers to most of my questions...thought I'd see if one of you genius technicians here can give some simple summary answers to a few questions that I couldn't find answers to OR more than likely, don't quite understand or don't know what the terminology refers to, so here goes...

Bike Info:
2010 WR250R (US)
Came with FMF Power Core/Power Bomb... NO FMF Programmer (have one on order) ... bike bogs seriously THEN TAKES OFF!
Looks like K&N Air Filter (unless they come stock? but I doubt it)
No air box mods, No AIS removal or Flapper removal/mods, everything else stock
12 tooth front sprocket - 43 Rear (stock?)
Pro Taper CR High Bars

SO... here's the survey questions...

FMF Programmer, AIS removal, Air box Mods, Servo-Unit...

• Should I do them all or maybe better to ask which items HAVE to be done together, which are optional with my above set up?

• Do I need to do them all? If so, what's the best order to do these? (I have ordered they AIS removal kit)

• I would imagine air box needs to be done with FMF exhaust/header in place...do the different versions of the Air box mod affect how you dial in the FMF programmer?

•What are the FMF Programmer default settings? I read somewhere but couldn't find again... are they good to start with?

• Is it correct that the air box needs opened up to compensate for the FMF exhaust/header and the FMF programmer dials this system in?

• Is the Flapper removal/mod part of the air box intake part of the equation or separate?

• I don't quite understand what the Servo Unit/motor is (do I have one?) and does it need to be removed or that bypass thingy put on? something about error codes...

• Is it correct that the AIS removal, EXPU?, Servo motor (do I have one?) are separate optional things to remove for other reasons like weight or just not needed?

• What is the procedure for maintaing the K&N air filter? is it lifetime? does it need to be oiled? there was a small pool of oil in the air box I'm assuming was from the filter being sprayed? ... I hope anyway!

• With the Pro Taper CR High bars can 1" risers be added without extending any cables? it seems pretty tight right now...is there a way to get some slack? it seems some people are adding risers without any cable extensions, right? no?

• Bike didn't come with the stock bars. How does stock bar size compare with Pro Taper CR High?

I realize some of the answers to these things might be specific to riding style, or there might be many opinions and other variables I have forgotten to state, but I'm totally open to things like... "Dude! These things you NEED to do and this is what I would do if I were you" type stuff..

I have read all stickies and searched, so I hope this isn't too repetitive for those in the know...

thanks so much for any replies or tips...

...except for the HUGE stumble on take off, I'm really loving the bike : )







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motokid
Moderator
motokid



SHORT Intro...LONG question (Part 2)  : ) Empty
PostSubject: Re: SHORT Intro...LONG question (Part 2) : )   SHORT Intro...LONG question (Part 2)  : ) EmptyFri Nov 16, 2012 6:42 am

I'll answer a few of these.

First - don't mess with intake/airbox until you have programmer installed and somewhat adjusted.

Second, the "servo" is the motor that operates the EXUP valve in the stock exhaust. Since you have no stock exhaust the servo is simply weight. It's under the battery if you have one. However, if you just remove servo you'll get an error code thrown on your instrument cluster. There's ways to remove servo if you want and avoid the error code, but it also does not hurt to just leave it sitting there. It only weighs a pound or two tops.

Read the sticky on programmer settings and find somebody with similar mods to yours. Start with programmer settings close to what they like. it's not rocket science and each person might want something a little different. Like mpg is more important than raw power. That kind of thing. Don't be afraid to mess with settings and find what feels right to you plus a setting that removes that annoying bog.

Opening up the airbox does improve things. A simple and easy test is to remove the airbox door completely. Do you ride in dusty conditions where a lot of dirt is present, or is this bike 99% a street bike commuter? Airbox mods and choice of air filter are important for riding conditions. Most people don't recommend a K&N for dusty conditions. (I would only remove airbox door for street riding - not in dusty/dirty conditions)

Just an FYI - the AIS removal won't improve performance. Only thing you might find is less backfiring since you have an after-market exhaust. Servo motor removal won't improve performance. It'll only shave off a little weight. I would highly suggest you DON'T do anything else to intake or exhaust parts of the equation UNTIL you have efi programmer installed and operational. Flapper mod is generally considered part of the airbox mod options.


Hope that helps get you started....



_________________
2008 WR250X
Gearing: 13t - 48t
Power Commander 5 / PC-V
Airbox Door Removed - Flapper glued - AIS removed
FmF Q4
Bridgestone Battlax BT-003rs
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mucker

mucker



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PostSubject: Re: SHORT Intro...LONG question (Part 2) : )   SHORT Intro...LONG question (Part 2)  : ) EmptyFri Nov 16, 2012 6:51 am

A short reply...

You need a fuel programmer to make optimal air/fuel ratio, especially after making changes.

Air box mods range from, popping off the inspection door, to stripping stuff out of the way, cutting strategic holes, to removing the entire box completely.
The air box also protects your engine from debris and water too...so how far you are willing to go for incremental increases in flow is up to you. The flapper works with the exup system, which part of, was on your stock header...therefore seems redundant now, with the fmf pipes.
AIS is part of the emissions circuit, can cause a little backfire when left connected. Performance wise?...can't hurt.
The servo motor becomes redundant, so if a few grams of extra weight bother you, removing it is an option.
You are correct about getting codes...use your kit, and supplied resistor to prevent that.

Cables will get tighter the more you raise the bars, if you can not rotate or position the controls to give enough slack...you'ld need different cables.

I am no tech...just reciting what I have gathered.
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DragonNester

DragonNester



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PostSubject: Re: SHORT Intro...LONG question (Part 2) : )   SHORT Intro...LONG question (Part 2)  : ) EmptyFri Nov 16, 2012 7:51 am

There are web sites with pix on how to perform all these mods usually with links to kits that replace some of the items removed. Even better, there are youtube videos showing exactly how to do these things.

Oh BTW, welcome aboard. This forum is a great source for all things WR.


Last edited by DragonNester on Fri Nov 16, 2012 7:59 am; edited 1 time in total
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crazy_dave

crazy_dave



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PostSubject: Re: SHORT Intro...LONG question (Part 2) : )   SHORT Intro...LONG question (Part 2)  : ) EmptyFri Nov 16, 2012 7:56 am

http://www.wrrdualsport.com/
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rsteiger

rsteiger



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PostSubject: Re: SHORT Intro...LONG question (Part 2) : )   SHORT Intro...LONG question (Part 2)  : ) EmptyFri Nov 16, 2012 8:47 am

Well just to confuse you and give you a little bit different advice...

I ordered everything I needed and then last weekend did the following.

- Removed the stock exhaust and EXUP valve
- Added a DRD Exhaust slip-on with SA
- Removed the AIS system
- Installed an IMS 3.1 gallon tank
- Performed the "Ultimate Airbox" mod (that took the longest btw - a lot of dremel work)
- Installed an FMF Programmer

As I bolted everything back together I thought I was nuts for doing so much at once, but my wrench time is limited.

The bike fired right up and ran well with the stock FMF settings. I tried to adjust the setting but the Green, Yellow, Red LED settings all look the same to me (I am orange / green color blind). So I rode it around for a couple of days with the stock FMF settings and there was a huge improvement in the bike's performance.

A couple of days later when my daughter was over I had her tell me what color the LED's were and adjusted the settings to 3,5,0.5,8,4,4. SOP gage seems to think there is better response of the the line but I think if I can find a Dyno in the area I may spring for a run to dial it in a little better. So far I am very happy.

This weekend I am going to 14/50 gearing on the bike. Right now it is stock.
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pantera1





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PostSubject: Re: SHORT Intro...LONG question (Part 2) : )   SHORT Intro...LONG question (Part 2)  : ) EmptyFri Nov 16, 2012 1:37 pm

rsteiger wrote:
I tried to adjust the setting but the Green, Yellow, Red LED settings all look the same to me (I am orange / green color blind).

I feel your pain brother! I can see the blue LED. The rest look the same.
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FTWeather

FTWeather



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PostSubject: Thanx so much!   SHORT Intro...LONG question (Part 2)  : ) EmptyFri Nov 16, 2012 5:58 pm

Hey Guys,
thanks so much for the great input. That helps a lot! I have seen almost all the videos and pics on other forums over the last few weeks...maybe a couple more questions to narrow it down if it's not too much trouble... you've already saved me a huge amount of time

some bike/ride info...

• bike will be used about 70/30 on road/off road (mostly fire roads)
• came with 12/43 gearing, so I don't know how stock feels
• not looking for the highest gas mileage or "ultimate power/performance"
... just looking to smooth out power delivery and get rid of stumble on take off
• Not concerned about weight
• probably don't have time or skill for the "ultimate" air box mod


...so I will probably start with just adding the FMF Programmer (thanks motokid for the post on the order of things to do) ...
QUESTION: I was assuming something had to be done to the air box/air intake to compensate for the FMF pipe/header...would the FMF programmer alone be OK?

QUESTION: If something should to be done to increase air intake, which air box mod would be the simplest, least destructive, yet most protective when riding in dirt or water? I was thinking of something on top of the box, I don't want to take the side cover off or drill through it or side plate

I will leave Servo-Unit for now, until I get more comfortable messing in there.

I will leave AIS for now or until it starts popping (have the AIS kit coming just in case)

FLAPPER...hmmm. this one still confuses me. I HAVE seen most of the videos and all of the forums pics on these...
QUESTION: Is this a 2 part thing as in taking off the flapper motor(?) AND then gluing open the flapper? Is the flapper door automatically disabled because I don't have the stock exhaust? Can I open something on top of the airbax and leave the flapper deal?

K&N Air filter: bike came with this and I think the guy rode mostly off road, he didn't do anything to the air box...
QUESTION: I hear it's not RECOMMENDED for off road, but does that include my 70/30 scenario and not opening up anything on the side of the air box? Is it a BAD idea to leave it in, should I go to another filter system? can anyone that uses the K&N tell me if it needs to be oiled and maintained ( I have had others and they are lifetime with no oiling, just a little cleaning with an air hose... if I should go a different route for air filter, what are some options?

SOOO, I guess I'm down to...
1. adding the FMF Programmer and
2. deciding which air box mod (if any)
3. what to do with the air filter
4. what to do about the flapper...

given the bike/rider info above... feel free to say what you would do (i get that there are a lot of options and opinions, but it does help me to hear others thoughts)

oh ya, I'm also color blind...have done some interesting electrical wiring jobs over the years!!

...thanks again for any thoughts or opinions... : ) josh
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mucker

mucker



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PostSubject: Re: SHORT Intro...LONG question (Part 2) : )   SHORT Intro...LONG question (Part 2)  : ) EmptyFri Nov 16, 2012 8:50 pm

My advice is to relax...I mean really relax.

And just soak it in , for the moment, that you just got a really great bike.
There are other cool bikes. But this one, is great, as advertised.

Assuming you want a little more...thats there too.
This bike works great, and can get better if you fuss with it.

Congrats on a great bike!

Now patience, young jedi.
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Swagger

Swagger



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PostSubject: Re: SHORT Intro...LONG question (Part 2) : )   SHORT Intro...LONG question (Part 2)  : ) EmptySat Nov 17, 2012 2:03 am

mucker wrote:
Congrats on a great bike!

Now patience, young jedi.
+ 1


FTWeather wrote:
QUESTION: If something should to be done to increase air intake, which air box mod would be the simplest, least destructive, yet most protective when riding in dirt or water? I was thinking of something on top of the box, I don't want to take the side cover off or drill through it or side plate
I just took some 3m tape rather than screwing it down like some have done. I cant imagine why i would but i can always take it back to stock no prob.
FTWeather wrote:
I will leave Servo-Unit for now, until I get more comfortable messing in there.
Just leave it
FTWeather wrote:
I will leave AIS for now or until it starts popping (have the AIS kit coming just in case)
Little popping never hurt no one wink
FTWeather wrote:
FLAPPER...hmmm. this one still confuses me. I HAVE seen most of the videos and all of the forums pics on these...
QUESTION: Is this a 2 part thing as in taking off the flapper motor(?) AND then gluing open the flapper? Is the flapper door automatically disabled because I don't have the stock exhaust? Can I open something on top of the airbax and leave the flapper deal?
I took off the flapper motor after programmer and pipe. I also as stated above 3m'd it down. I could be wrong b/c its been a while but when the "flapper motor dohickey" is removed, the flapper door remains in the open position. The reason i 3m'd it down is if, although rare in my case, i'm off road i dont want the door bouncing up and down and restricting air flow. At least that was my thought process at the time. I'm sure someone will correct me if i'm wrong but i dont think its spring loaded once the motor is removed. scratch
FTWeather wrote:
K&N Air filter: bike came with this and I think the guy rode mostly off road, he didn't do anything to the air box...
QUESTION: I hear it's not RECOMMENDED for off road, but does that include my 70/30 scenario and not opening up anything on the side of the air box? Is it a BAD idea to leave it in, should I go to another filter system? can anyone that uses the K&N tell me if it needs to be oiled and maintained ( I have had others and they are lifetime with no oiling, just a little cleaning with an air hose... if I should go a different route for air filter, what are some options?
I'll let someone who has one on the bike reply on the 70/30 but i have K&N's in both my cars and they DO need to be washed and oiled! Go to your local shop and pick up the K&N filter kit. Will run you $12 (approx) and you'll have enough to clean that little filter as long as you own the bike.


FTWeather wrote:
SOOO, I guess I'm down to...
1. adding the FMF Programmer and
2. deciding which air box mod (if any)
3. what to do with the air filter
4. what to do about the flapper...
IMHO
1. A must
2. Just 3m/glue/ or screw the flapper down and remove "Flapper Motor Dohickey"
3. CLEAN IT! Especially if your not sure when the last time it was serviced
4. See question/answer 3
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FTWeather

FTWeather



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PostSubject: Ok, who do I send the check to?   SHORT Intro...LONG question (Part 2)  : ) EmptySat Nov 17, 2012 2:59 am

Ok, who do I send the check to? : )

Thanks for taking the time to respond! Got it done, added fmf programmer, default settings, instantly fixed stumble/stall on take off. Left the ais, servo...

Pulled off flapper motor from air box, moved it to the side (left hole in top open, taped door down), but left the hoses connected, wasn't sure if there was still a vacuum situation there, is there? ... I once unhooked a tbs hose from a Ducati and it left me stranded, oops... Not too relaxing. : )

Bike runs very smooth so far.




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DragonNester

DragonNester



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PostSubject: Re: SHORT Intro...LONG question (Part 2) : )   SHORT Intro...LONG question (Part 2)  : ) EmptySat Nov 17, 2012 7:38 am

I took the air box flapper actuator (diaphragm) off the bike so it wouldn't rattle around or damage anything else in the neighborhood, Then, plugged the vacuum line with a screw.

If their not on already, put some stout hand-guards on...they are pay me now or pay me later items. They offer some wind protection on chilly days as a perk.

Yeah, don't mess with the EXUP or the AIS until you want to change your silencer.

Go, have some fun with your new bike.
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YZEtc

YZEtc



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PostSubject: Re: SHORT Intro...LONG question (Part 2) : )   SHORT Intro...LONG question (Part 2)  : ) EmptySat Nov 17, 2012 8:35 am

If you want to sweat the next item, make it the air filter.

When riding off-road especially, there's no such thing as a set-it-and-forget-it air filter, unless you don't mind prematurely wearing-out engine parts via ingested dirt.
If you're riding off-road, even with a 30%-of-use time span, you need to learn how to service the air filter and do it correctly and regularly.

Myself, I'd ditch the K&N air filter and buy the parts needed (filter and filter guide, or "cage" as it's also called)
to put an oiled foam filter back in place as the bike came with originally.
Then, buy foam air filter cleaner and foam air filter oil, not K&N oil, motor oil, Pam cooking spray or chain saw bar and chain oil.

I'd service the air filter once a week at least, assuming you stick to your 30% off-road usage estimate.
After every ride if you spend a day's ride off-road.
Don't kid yourself - street-going vehicles see only a small fraction of the airborne dirt and dust.
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motokid
Moderator
motokid



SHORT Intro...LONG question (Part 2)  : ) Empty
PostSubject: Re: SHORT Intro...LONG question (Part 2) : )   SHORT Intro...LONG question (Part 2)  : ) EmptySat Nov 17, 2012 8:40 am

FTWeather,

The K&N filter is allowing the intake to breath more freely on the intake side, so whatever it is you're thinking about regarding the FMF pipe and it's ability to "work properly" is already somewhat being taken care of by the filter.


After you get the programmer just fiddle with it until you find a setting that makes the bike smooth and responsive. Write that setting down.

THEN start playing with the airbox mods.


Like I said earlier, the AIS has no effect on anything in terms of performance or responsiveness. Since you have an aftermarket exhaust it's useless weight. Removing it or leaving it on does not effect the engine or it's breathing. The AIS was there to protect the catalytic converter in stock pipe.

The flapper mod you've heard so much about is really more a mind-game I think. You won't notice anything one way or the other by doing that. So as others have said, don't over-think things right now. Ride and enjoy.

Get that programmer on bike ASAP and start working on dialing that in to your tastes and riding style.
Perform maintenance on that K&N filter.

Then ride ride ride.....



Flapper, AIS, and servo motor crap is for long, boring winter weekends when weather prevents riding, and you're just bored as shit with little else to do but you REALLY want to do something motorcycle related.

Those things can wait.

_________________
2008 WR250X
Gearing: 13t - 48t
Power Commander 5 / PC-V
Airbox Door Removed - Flapper glued - AIS removed
FmF Q4
Bridgestone Battlax BT-003rs
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