Stock lowering

I have read all the postings on lowering the bike via the stock lowering. One question I cannot answer is how much should I lower the rear if I plan to lower the front by 1/2 to 3/4? I've read this is not a one to one ratio. At the same I plan to add the Yamalink but want to get the stock lowering correct first. I am 5'11" and would like to get two flat feet on the ground as I am older and newer dirt rider. The bike is new 2014 - should I make other suspension changes from factory settings if I weigh 170 lbs.?

All I did was read the manual and put all my settings on the softest setting for the front and rear, even adjusted the rear spring rate, and adjusted the real shock nut, front tire pressure about 12 psi the rear about 15 psi, Im 6ft 1 in and 210 34 inch inseam, still hard for an old fart to swing my leg over but once I sit on the seat she hunkers down so I can pretty much flat foot it, I found these settings really too soft so I have adjusted the front and back for my riding skill, still soft, but at 64 Im not as fast on the logging roads and single track as I once was, but still have a hoot, I would not drop the forks over 1/2 inch as you will change the rake and follow too much, I find the steering will get to twitchy for me, cheers

Thanks fifty grit! The manual shows how to do the rebound and preload and I know how to lower the front but how did you lower the rear shock? The black knob and nut that is underneath rear shock is a mystery to me as to whether I'm raising or lowering the rear. I agree, the rear should be lowered more than front.

The black nob adjusts the rebound damping, if you turn the black nob clock wise just till it stops towards the shock and then turn it counter clock wise 25 clicks it is at the softest rating, standard setting is 12 clicks, there is a lock ring on the rear shock spring also, spring load, measure the length of the spring, you will have to take off the side covers, if you adjust the length of the spring to 8.5 inches that is the softest setting, if your bike is stock it will be set right around 8.3 inches, Im not the best at explaining this but I hope this helps some. I have ridden and worked on bikes since around 1966 so its easier for me to work on them rather than explaining. cheer`s

Hi greyrider,
check this out for lowering the rear:
http://www.wrrdualsport.com/tech-guide/suspension/115-lowering-r2
Remember to put all the bolts back in as found.
I also ended up setting my shock and forks to full soft, at 60 yrs I find I am liking smooth over performance.  (I just ride the quad trails a lot slower.)  I'm 215 ish with gear and mainly stay on forest service roads.  I lowered the rear shock as much as possible and raised the forks about 5/8".  I can still get at the clickers for the rebound settings on the forks.

5. Use the Channel Locks to hold the Lower Shock Block. Use the adjustable wrench to loosen the Jam Nut. Lower Jam Nut and Lower Shock Block to desired position.

Thanks Blue! The part above is the part I don't understand in those instructions. It is not clear to me what he is turning and for what. I understand the black knob and its clicks is for rebound or is it preload. In any case I'm not clear I think on what he is adjusting and what direction for the jam nut and lower shock block. What is it exactly that is lowering the bike and how much if i'm doing 1/2 to 3/4 on front forks?

He says to "turn jam nut and lower shock block UP. What happens to the black knob. Do you leave it alone for the lowering. Anyway thanks, eventually I'll get it. I'm in same camp as you - mostly trail riding but want to do the TAT next summer so getting geared up now. I weigh 170 and probably need to adjust my settings for that as well.

Take a close look at the picture below step 3. The lower shock block he is referring to is the u shaped aluminum block at the bottom of the shock assembly. Immediately above that is the jamb nut and above that is the black rebound adjuster. Notice the space between the jamb nut and the rebound adjuster? Now look at the picture below step 6. Notice there is no space left between the jamb nut and the rebound adjuster. Put a pencil mark on the flat side of the u block that faces you and then loosen the jamb nut and thread it up to where it is almost touching the black rebound adjuster. Then hold the shock shaft from turning, and thread the u shaped aluminum block up to the jamb nut. (this is where the confusion is between raising and lowering, moving the nut and block upwards, lowers the bike). Be sure to orient the block the right way with your pencil mark. This should lower your rear suspension by 1".

This is a big help! Thanks again.

One more question on lowering. The downloads and pictures that show lowering the WR's via the stock and Yamalink show getting a jack under the rear to take the pressure off the links. My jack stand raises the bike to where I can turn the rear wheel but no way I could get it off the ground or get a floor jack under it. I'm ready to do the job but wonder if this part of the process is necessary. I really don't have a way to get the bike higher if I have to really get the rear tire, or front, off the ground. Experiences appreciated.

It does make it easier, but you can do it without the jack.

Followed stock lowering and Yamalink install downloaded here plus reader advice and did both jobs in 2 hrs. A floor jack sure helps. Thanks.

Its great when a plan comes together, cheer`s