Different Chain Options

Hey Forum,

I'm looking at getting some new tires (Mitas Stone Eaters) and while I'm doing that work I figured I should also change out my sprocket/chain. Currently running stock tires/chain/sprocket. I do mainly offroad (70/30) so I'd like to go from 13/43 to 14/50 for offroad then switch out the front sprocket to a 13T should I go for a longer run on the pavement. I know that I will need a 112Link chain (thanks to the Sticky). My question is this... What are the differences between an "O-Ring Chain" and "Roller Chain". I'm shopping online @ motorcycle-superstore and I'm not sure which chain is suitable for my bike.

I have the Sandman case saver and guard and from what I've read on this forum the 14T will be ok and won't rub the case saver.

Also, what's everyone's consensus with Master Clip or Rivet. I've never replaced a chain before so this is pretty new to me.

Is there anything else I should know when buying/installing this set up?

thanks in advance!

An O-ring chain is like the stock chain - it has small rubber O-rings at each pin/bushing joint that seal in the original factory grease and seal out contaminants.
It is this joint that causes a chain to "stretch" (elongate over time) when it wears, and an O-ring chain will keep this joint alive much longer than a non-O-ring chain.

The term "roller chain" usually means somebody is talking about a non-O-ring chain, even though the O-ring chains have rollers, too (the shiny parts that contact the sprocket teeth).
No sealing O-rings on this chain, so, especially for off-road usage, it won't last as long.
These days, you find this chain on motocross bikes (intended to be ridden at the track with your truck and toolbox near by in the pits) or the smallest/cheapest dirt bikes.

Me?
I'd get an O-ring chain.

Rivet or clip master link?
I feel your replies will show who has and who hasn't had a clip-type link fail in some way.
I go rivet with my bikes. :)

Thanks for the reply! I had assumed the o-ring was exactly that.

It's probably here on the site too.. but I read on the big dog adventure site about   the stock 13t counter sprocket  allowing  the chain to wear out the bottom of the swing arm {guide}...{if you adjust chain to the manual} Can you get the gearing you want by using a 14t front sprocket and just swapping out the rear sprocket? Then i suppose who wants to swap a rear sprocket... "eh"

not sure if you have it or used it but here is the gearing commander link it may help decide what combo is best for you ..

http://www.gearingcommander.com/

best of luck

rarepartbuilder wrote:

It's probably here on the site too.. but I read on the big dog adventure site about   the stock 13t counter sprocket  allowing  the chain to wear out the bottom of the swing arm {guide}...{if you adjust chain to the manual} Can you get the gearing you want by using a 14t front sprocket and just swapping out the rear sprocket? Then i suppose who wants to swap a rear sprocket... "eh"

not sure if you have it or used it but here is the gearing commander link it may help decide what combo is best for you ..

http://www.gearingcommander.com/

best of luck

I'm pretty confident in the setup I'm looking for. My thoughts are this. with the stock set up it's way to high.. so I'm thinking of 13/48 would be a nicer balance... then I add some higher profile tires and it's more like a 13/45ish... still too tall. going up on counter sprocket will definitely reduce wear of the swing arm guard (although i'm really not concerned with access wear coming from a 13T). so a 14/50 I think will give me a great balance for what I'm looking for. If I find it too short then I can swap out to a 13/50 for taller highway gears. I've read lots of reviews and spoke to a good buddy who has been MXing for years and years and actually owned a Yamaha dealer for a while. He told me I should go 14/50 instead of 13/48. easier to swap out if I want the taller gears etc etc.

13/50 isn't "taller" than 14/50.  You're backwards on that.

If I find it too short then I can swap out to a 13/50 for taller highway gears.

GlibGuy wrote:

13/50 isn't "taller" than 14/50.  You're backwards on that.

If I find it too short then I can swap out to a 13/50 for taller highway gears.

yes sorry, my mistake lol

Caldsy,

13/43 = 3.307
14/50 = 3.571
13/48 = 3.692


I have been running 14/50 or last few years - for all the same reasons- to get shorter gearing and to avoid the swingarm issues. It works great for 50/50. If you are running the tighter trails, or wanting to wheelie over stuff around NB, you might still find 14/50 still a bit too tall. You could always try 13/48. I don't have any multi-day trips planned for the WR this summer so I might just throw on a 13/48 to give it a try myself.

Anyhow, I also have the Sandman sprocket guard with my 14/50. It is tight and I had to do a small bit of bending adjustment to make it fit but it does work well. Regardless of what gearing you choose- regular inspection of swingarm and clearances is wise

A few WR's around NB now. We'll have to hook up for a run.

I like 14 50 gearing for everything, thats whats on mine now.

I had 13 50 on it for quite awhile but found it too low on the road and first gear was a bit too low but second was still a bit too fast for a lot of the trails I ride, I always felt like I needed a inbetween gear, 14 50 lets me use first a lot more off road and go the speed I want to in tight trails.

I also have a smallish 100/100 rear tire, this makes my gearing lower than someone with a tall tire, 13 50 was better with a tall rear tire.

I have a SRT O ring chain to put on my bike this winter, I've been running one on my other bike for a bit now, its a good chain and dirt cheap, it comes with a rivet and clip style master link so you can use whichever you choose. I like rivet links.

saddletramp wrote:

Caldsy,

13/43 = 3.307
14/50 = 3.571
13/48 = 3.692


I have been running 14/50 or last few years - for all the same reasons- to get shorter gearing and to avoid the swingarm issues.  It works great for 50/50.   If you are running the tighter trails, or wanting to wheelie over stuff around NB, you might still find 14/50 still a bit too tall.  You could always try 13/48.  I don't have any multi-day trips planned for the WR this summer so I might just throw on a 13/48 to give it a try myself.

Anyhow, I also have the Sandman sprocket guard with my 14/50.  It is tight and I had to do a small bit of bending adjustment to make it fit but it does work well.  Regardless of what gearing you choose- regular inspection of swingarm and clearances is wise

A few WR's around NB now.  We'll have to hook up for a run.

Yes we will definitely have to get together for a run! Seems like more guys towards the Moncton area... and I've never been down there on dirt so I'd love to come up for a day/weekend ride.

Biglake wrote:

I like 14 50 gearing for everything, thats whats on mine now.

I had 13 50 on it for quite awhile but found it too low on the road and first gear was a bit too low but second was still a bit too fast for a lot of the trails I ride, I always felt like I needed a inbetween gear, 14 50 lets me use first a lot more off road and go the speed I want to in tight trails.

I also have a smallish 100/100 rear tire, this makes my gearing lower than someone with a tall tire, 13 50 was better with a tall rear tire.

I have a SRT O ring chain to put on my bike this winter, I've been running one on my other bike for a bit now, its a good chain and dirt cheap, it comes with a rivet and clip style master link so you can use whichever you choose. I like rivet links.

I've got a taller tire coming as noted in my original post.. so I think the 13/50 will be great for the trails/tight stuff. I got a really good deal on my DID which is why I went with it.

as SaddleTramp mentioned above, we should all get together for a tour sometime. Rarepartbuilder from this site (and NBDSC) has recently acquired a WRR as well and from what I've seen he likes to ride a lot. I'd be down for a tour to Moncton area sometime. Where are you living?

Thanks for the feedback gents!

Im out in the sticks in hants county nova scotia, its about 3 hours to moncton from here.

Nothing wrong with a DID chain, thery're one of the best chains going.

I just wanted to give guys a heads up that SRT chains are dirt cheap but good quality, these are pretty new theres not much info out there on them.

Big lake

where r u buying your SRT chains at? Here in Sackville the local NAPA store has motovan and parts canada books  .. when i buy its the same as buying online only the items end up at the store with no shipping charges.

You are not far from the Shubie river... i went white water rafting in those zodiaks a couple of years ago... be cool to do a WR bike ride that got a group out on the water as well..

hey, will so any 520 chain work? I'm looking at a decent price on a D1D gold x-ring 520. Price is right but will it fit? Is it a huge overkill?

thanks!

doc_simple

Yes, the key word being 520 size chain. O-ring or X-ring being longer lasting than a standard chain.

I got the srt chain from gnarly parts, it was 56 bucks last summer.

I always get enough stuff at once to get free shipping, with two bikes and a atv I always need something, I think you need to buy 150 dollars wortth of stuff for free shipping.

thanks guys, last question on chains (I think!) I see some of the chains are cheaper with 114 or more links. Cant I just pop these out and have a 112? And is a 111 not good? I dont see anyone talking about using an odd numbered chain and Im %90 sure I was running an odd number on my FZ6...

thanks again. This site isn't as active as my other bikes but always get good help here so far!

I use either the bench grinder or a welders angle grinder to remove the link rivet mushroom heads at the determined link spot . then just disassemble the link.

I don’t think i have ever bought a chain the exact length.. but i guess there is plug and play units...

I bought my Primary Drive 520 ORH Gold X-Ring Chain with 112 links. There are not a lot of chains that come with exactly 112 links, most of the time you just order a 120 link chain and cut it to length.

doc_simple wrote:

thanks guys, last question on chains (I think!) I see some of the chains are cheaper with 114 or more links. Cant I just pop these out and have a 112? And is a 111 not good? I dont see anyone talking about using an odd numbered chain and Im %90 sure I was running an odd number on my FZ6...

thanks again. This site isn't as active as my other bikes but always get good help here so far!

You have to run a 1/2 link to run an odd number of chain links, those arent avalible for O ring chains so no one runs them, they are basicly just for machiney with unsealed chains and no chain adjustment so you need them to get the chain tight in that situation.

I end up with 120 link chains most times and cut them to lenght.

doc_simple wrote:

hey, will so any 520 chain work? I'm looking at a decent price on a D1D gold x-ring 520. Price is right but will it fit? Is it a huge overkill?

thanks!

doc_simple

Works great. Not overkill.

Caldsy wrote:

...
Also, what's everyone's consensus with Master Clip or Rivet. I've never replaced a chain before so this is pretty new to me...

I second all advice to avoid clip on links. There are tricks to minimize them failing, and arguably useful for track days or temporary fixes pending further upgrades, but a bad plan if you are riding solo and to remote locations. Use rivet links. Chains that let go can result in LOTS of collateral damage.

BTW 'Half links' are weak... even if one were available I'd skip it.

Caldsy wrote:

I know that I will need a 112Link chain (thanks to the Sticky). My question is this...  What are the differences between an "O-Ring Chain" and "Roller Chain".  I'm shopping online @ motorcycle-superstore and I'm not sure which chain is suitable for my bike.

Here's what I found to describe the difference in the o-ring vs x-ring chains (copied from a website):

What are O Ring and X Ring chains?
There are three principal types of roller drive chains: non O Ring, O Ring and X Ring. The non O Ring types date back to the beginning of time and are still used extensively today. They are strong, light, cheap to produce and relatively friction free but they do not have internal lubrication, so they tend to wear out more quickly. These days they tend to be used most on smaller capacity and Moto X bikes.
As motorcycle technology and power output has increased, chain design has had to improve with it. So for bigger and more powerful bikes, non O Ring chains have been very much superseded by O Ring and X Ring chains. These position a sealing ring between the inner and outer chain plates. Before riveting in the factory, the internal parts of the chain are filled with chain grease by vacuum. The sealing rings then have two purposes: to keep the internal lubrication in, and to keep the dirt out, thus vastly improving the durability of the chain. O rings were available first and the ring is literally O shaped. As the two plates push on either side of the O ring, it distorts to have two flat sides to its shape. This is great for sealing and great for most uses but it creates considerable friction which saps the bike's power.
That in turn led to the development of X Ring chains. X describes the shape of the ring. Instead of having an O shape it now has an X shape. This means that when pressed between the chain plates, it no longer has a flattened O ring shape but instead has two smaller faces touching either plate in an X shape. This gives you the same great sealing and durability but now with very low friction. The perfect chain!