Help! Rear wheel hub seized on axle

Guys I need a opinion on what to do. My axle in my bike is seized into my hub when I try hitting it from the caliber side it moves about a cm when I hit it from the sprocket side to try and knock it loose the swing arm moves towards the wheel more back in place where it should be. Then when I get back the the caliber side the swing arm goes back where I can't move the rear tire back and forth so I needs your guys opinion on what to do besides cutting off the axle.

PB blaster ect. Hammer from side to side, it will often start to move just a bit more. The factthat its not siezed solid is a good sign.

Can you fit a socket over the left side of the axle, and get it to fit? Then use an impact wrench / air rattle tool to get it loose. Have helped me with a swingarm bolt before. Hope that makes sence.

I'm after spraying about 1/2 a can of wd40 in my hub and I can't really use a socket on the left side because of the chain adjuster

Jens Eskildsen wrote:

PB blaster ect. Hammer from side to side, it will often start to move just a bit more. The factthat its not siezed solid is a good sign.

Can you fit a socket over the left side of the axle, and get it to fit? Then use an impact wrench / air rattle tool to get it loose. Have helped me with a swingarm bolt before. Hope that makes sence.

Jens first suggestion is really the only solution. Problem Impact gun is the bearings will just spin.

try using acetone instead of WD40, it will penetrate into the rust better. Be careful about where you drip it though.

Elm wrote:

Jens first suggestion is really the only solution. Problem Impact gun is the bearings will just spin.

The impact can actually help to free the axle because of the "hammering". Saved me once, as described earlier

Elm wrote:

Jens Eskildsen wrote:

PB blaster ect. Hammer from side to side, it will often start to move just a bit more. The factthat its not siezed solid is a good sign.

Can you fit a socket over the left side of the axle, and get it to fit? Then use an impact wrench / air rattle tool to get it loose. Have helped me with a swingarm bolt before. Hope that makes sence.

Jens first suggestion is really the only solution. Problem Impact gun is the bearings will just spin.

Also PB Blaster is a much more effective penetrating oil than WD40. As a rule penetrating oils are not created equal, PB Blaster is excellent, arguably the best.

-morgan

morgan9283 wrote:

Elm wrote:

Jens Eskildsen wrote:

PB blaster ect. Hammer from side to side, it will often start to move just a bit more. The factthat its not siezed solid is a good sign.

Can you fit a socket over the left side of the axle, and get it to fit? Then use an impact wrench / air rattle tool to get it loose. Have helped me with a swingarm bolt before. Hope that makes sence.

Jens first suggestion is really the only solution. Problem Impact gun is the bearings will just spin.

Also PB Blaster is a much more effective penetrating oil than WD40.  As a rule penetrating oils are not created equal, PB Blaster is excellent, arguably the best.

-morgan

Or Deep Creep

or

Kano Aerokroil Penetrating Oil

Are you sure it's rust seized and not bent seized? None of this really applies to it being bent.... But here's my two cents-

Wd-40 was origionaly designed by nasa and does what it was designed to do good... Wd stands for water displacer, I forget what the 40 means... It's not really a lube and defiantly not a penetrating oil. Pb or some form of penetrating oil is what you need to use... Marvel mystery oil is great for freeing up anything seized... Maybe just a catch pan n keep sprayin it back onto the hub... Cheaper than buying can after can of penetrating earllll....

It doesn't sound like cutting it would help much as you still have an axel seized in the hub. Could be a last resort so you could take the wheel to a metal shop and have them press it out.... Only option for bent seized....

I'd try to freeze the axel... The shrinkage might break the rust bond... Compressed co2 will freeze it... If you don't have access to a welding tank full of it, I'm pretty sure they fill computer duster with the same gas... To get this to work block of both sides with a rag, snake the tip through one side, proceed to empty the tank in the axle.... youtube how to make dry ice... Cloth filter and compressed co2...

If that doesn't work you could also heat the axel with a a plumbers torch, letting it air cool, and hitting it with the co2.... Going from full expanded metal to fully contracted might break the bond if the freezing doesn't alone.... Freezing it alone you could probably reuse the axle... If you heat it up a lot I wouldn't reuse it but air cooling is safer than cooling it quickly.... If you cool it quickly your gonna mess with the properties of the metal, making it brittle and more likely to crack or break....

My other idea would be some sort of puller... For me it'd be "custom" contraption made out of a clamp and some arms to get constant pressure on it. If I was to do it I'd set it up so I could get decent constant pressure on it, still have access to spray the inside of the axel with co2, and be able to give it a good whack.... You should see me change pressed in ball joints... Lmao...