2008 WR250R starting problems

I recently bought a 2008 WR250R. From the looks of it was probably kept outside for a long time as it had rust on the handlebars. It also only had about 1900 miles to when I got it and I've since put about 250 miles on it.

The bike is having problems starting while it's cold. It's taking multiple cranks to get it to start and this seems to be getting worse. Gradually a red light comes on, then check engine light and then it finally starts. Last time when it finally started and was warming up in neutral I pulled the throttle and it died several times until it fully warmed up. Once it's warmed up, it runs fine and restarts easily on the first crank.

So far I changes the battery, the spark plug and the injector coil assembly but no improvement. I refilled gas several times, always 93 octane. It came a FMF exhaust with programmer, and I added a gear indicator, which works fine.

Any ideas what may be causing this problem? Could it be air intake or air filter? Valves? Could it be a weird fuel map?

Any help would be appreciated!

Have you serviced the air filter?

Air, fuel, spark...

Checking the air filter would be a good start..

I didn't see any mention of checking the fuel pump or injector. That may be something else to check next.

I changed the air filter, with no improvement.

Maybe the problem is the fuel pump or injectors. What would be the easiest way to check these? It does not have the typical fuel pump problem for this year which is shutting down in high temperatures.

nyrider wrote:

Gradually a red light comes on, then check engine light and then it finally starts.

Sounds like the ECU is not aware that the engine is cold; could be the temperature sensor, or something similar.

If the check engine light came on, that means that the ECU posted an error code; what was the error code?

Yesterday after a short ride I turned off the bike while it was already warmed up, and it wouldn't restart at all, would die in a few seconds, and had to be towed home.

Then I went through the ECU diagnostic mode last night. The 2 error codes that are in the history are 30 and 41, both of which are lean angle sensor. The lean sensor was displaying correct voltage for the upright position, but I did not disconnect it. Perhaps the lean sensor codes are from a small drop the bike took a few weeks ago, not the current problem.

Also I checked the actuator operation through the diagnostic mode. I couldn't hear any sound for the air induction system solenoid (code 48) and for the intake solenoid (code 49), as the service manual says, which was suspicious. I guess if air induction is malfunctioning, it would explain the starting problem. All the other actuators seemed OK and the fuel pump definitely primes when the key is switched on.

My plan now is to remove the fuel pump and check it, try to clean the fuel filter and check the throttle bodies and injector. I also put Red Line 60102 Fuel System Cleaner in the tank few days ago. Air induction is also something to look at.

Thanks

Any updates on this?

I'm having hard start issues on my 2013 as well, specifically when cold.

I recently replaced the air filter and spark plug, which didn't make a difference.

Guess I need to start by checking engine codes, then go from there. Just curious what you found.

I had the same problem, cold very hard to start had to give a little gas just at the right time before it will even try to start and will not idle cold but everything was ok when hot, my valves way out of adjustment, no clearance on intakes at all, exhaust not to bad, adjusted them and everything is good now, but I know its going to need valves now. I know these bikes dont have valve problems, but my bike has been over heated very bad at 5000mi now it has 15000 i think the valves lost ther hardness do to overheating

you may want to buy a compression tester off eBay item number:272999946351 $15.

Paulie, I wonder if your valve clearance going away was due to dirt entering the air intake.
I believe this is the No. 1 cause.

paulie1960 wrote:

you may want to buy a compression tester off  eBay item number:272999946351 $15.

I don't think a compression tester will work on a WR (exhaust valve open when cranking).
Cylinder leakage tester maybe ok (don't think you can get one for $15 though).

YZEtc wrote:

Paulie, I wonder if your valve clearance going away was due to dirt entering the air intake.
I believe this is the No. 1 cause.

I use a unifilter, foam filter treatment oil

I don't think a compression tester will work on a WR (exhaust valve open when cranking).
Cylinder leakage tester maybe ok (
i was getting 40lb before valve adjustment and 90-100lb after i adjusted them