13/48 combo shopping list

So I have scoured the posts on various chain sprocket combos and I have learned a lot.  Thank you (all) for your comments/suggestions.  However, even after all I have read, I am still somewhat confused about what I should actually buy.  Based on what I have read and on my intended use, I feel that the 13/46 will be the most versatile.  I ride mostly on the road (short work commute) but on the weekends I trek 50 miles each way to find dirt to play in.  That being said, I prefer my bike to lean more toward better off-road performance than on road.  I'm in no hurray to get anywhere (except the woods) so if I sacrifice some top end speed, that's ok.  My question is what I should actually purchase?  I'm vendor agnostic and old enough that price is not an issue.

Based on reputation, I checked out the Renthal site and went through the "fit my bike" process and was surprised to see (only) sprockets from 42-45 listed for my 2018WR250R.  On the JT site they went up to 53 I think.  I am also not sure what kind of chain to get.   O ring?  Clip or rivet?  etc...  It's a bit overwhelming.  So I turn to you for some advice.

I'm willing to spring for a chain tool but I suspect for the riding I do, a clip on master link is fine.  I am confused about which chain I should get as opposed to how to connect it.  
Weight is always a concern, so I think aluminum (over steel) for the sprocket is better.

I await your feedback.

Thanks!

PS
Dunlop D606 front/rear

I run DID vx3 chains with clip-masterlink, and Jt steel srockets, you cant notice or feel an alu sprocket on a bike like this. Its a pretty bulletproof setup, just like the bike.

Sprockets are cheap, so buy something that gets you in the ballpark.
1 tooth on the rear sprocket is only a 150-200rpm difference.

Instead of 13/46, consider 14/49 which is essentially the same gearing, but you get bigger sprockets which will last slightly longer, and extend the life of the chainslider.

Thanks for the reply. The only real reason I was considering alum is to save a little weight. I guess I'm not sure what you mean by "notice or feel". To me it's like ski bindings. You have the boots and skis which I can "feel" but the bindings are harder to isolate. Maybe that's not a good comparison.

I've noticed that many of you folks use DID chains, so I will check them out.

bucktuckerman wrote:

Thanks for the reply.  The only real reason I was considering alum is to save a little weight.  I guess I'm not sure what you mean by "notice or feel".  To me it's like ski bindings.  You have the boots and skis which I can "feel" but the bindings are harder to isolate.  Maybe that's not a good comparison.  

I've noticed that many of you folks use DID chains, so I will check them out.

It depends on how you use the bike.

If you are planning on racing then you may want to try out an Aluminum rear sprocket but personally I think you would be better off trying a KTM, Beta, GasGas, WR250F, etc...

For most dual sport, adventure, and trail riding I would be hard pressed to tell the difference when riding a WR250R between an aluminum or steel sprocket other than looking at it after 3000 or so miles. My KTM 450 EXC had an aluminum sprocket and it was pretty much gone after 2000 miles. Meanwhile I have over 10,000 miles on my rear steel sprocket on the WRR and it still looks as good as new. With the miles I put on my WRR I prefer a steel sprocket so I can just keep riding the bike on a long ride. It would really bother me if I had to change the rear sprocket with each oil change.

There are also some lightweight rear steel sprockets that can be used if you absolutely feel that weight reduction is a priority - for me it really doesn't matter.

I hadn't even considered the "shelf life" of Alum. Thank you for mentioning that. Steel it is.

Any preference for a brand? Chain suggestion?

Been looking at renthal, JT et al.

thanks!

Jt sprockets are kinda the golden standard, cant go wrong with that. IM not too religious thoogh, but choose them if I can.

Thanks Jens,

I appreciate the help.

Based on your suggestions, I am going to try the DID vx3 chain/ Jt combo.

Jens Eskildsen wrote:

I run DID vx3 chains with clip-masterlink, and Jt steel srockets, you cant notice or feel an alu sprocket on a bike like this. Its a pretty bulletproof setup, just like the bike.

Sprockets are cheap, so buy something that gets you in the ballpark.
1 tooth on the rear sprocket is only a 150-200rpm difference.

Instead of 13/46, consider 14/49 which is essentially the same gearing, but you get bigger sprockets which will last slightly longer, and extend the life of the chainslider.

13/46 is a bit on the tall side for dirt but may work fine for you. I ran 13/48 for years and it worked well but is also a little tall depending on how technical your riding is. I would discourage a 14t front: it drags on at least the sandman case saver causing wear on your chain, the case saver, and, if you use one, your master link clip. It works fine otherwise. In my experience 13t does not wear the swingarm guard much as long you as you keep your chain on the loose side which has other benefits and minimal downsides.

Rocky Mountain's Primary Drive brand sprockets are inexpensive and durable. JT and Renthal are great too but if PD is cheaper I don't see any downside other than perhaps cosmetics. Definitely don't bother with aluminum, it's unlikely you'll notice. There are hybrid sprockets that have an aluminum core with steel teeth exterior: they're trick and wear well but, IMO, aren't worth the price.

Master link is just fine though a chain tool helps with installing that too. Rivet link is great but can lead you to a more expensive chain. If you already have a master link on the bike it's safe to pull a few links and re-install/replace the master link--you do want to get the master link that matches your chain I believe. I have an RK chain tool and it's worth having if you like working on your bike.

-morgan

Thanks for the feedback Morgan,

Forgive my ignorance, but when you "tall" I assume you mean that with 13/46 it would still be geared too high, correct? Where I ride tends to be tight single track with lots of rocks/roots/trees. Aside from not having to ride with the clutch in (so much) I need to be able to get the front end up at a moments notice.

I've been thinking about it, and I am leaning toward 13/48 now. If I don't like it, I can still get a 46T sprocket and cut a link or 2 off.

/b

bucktuckerman wrote:

Thanks for the feedback Morgan,

Forgive my ignorance, but when you "tall" I assume you mean that with 13/46 it would still be geared too high, correct?  Where I ride tends to be tight single track with lots of rocks/roots/trees.  Aside from not having to ride with the clutch in (so much) I need to be able to get the front end up at a moments notice.

I've been thinking about it, and I am leaning toward 13/48 now.  If I don't like it, I can still get a 46T sprocket and cut a link or 2 off.  

/b

Correct: tall meaning you will use the clutch more in tight single track. A lot of it depends on how and where you ride.

A simpler and cheaper solution to try different gearing would be to pick a middle-of-the-road rear and then swap out your front: the WRR can run a 14, 13, or 12 tooth front. If you think you might like 13/46 buy that and a 12t front. Swapping the 13 for the 12 is less work and is less likely to require a chain change. Primary Drive front sprockets are $9ish so a minimal investment. If you loosen the axle and move the adjuster blocks out of the way you should be able to swap the front sprocket without breaking the chain (I can, anyway).

Some say the 12 is hard on the chain guard but I don't have good data on that. You could start at 14/51 (same ratio as 13/46) and drop to 13/51 (same ratio as 12/46) if you decide that's too tall. Do some experimentation and see what you like. Keep the chain loose and keep an eye on the underside of your swing arm guard as is documented extensively here and elsewhere.

I seem to remember having to do a litlte more

I ran 13/48 for a long time and was blowing through clutches so just dropped to 12/48, we'll see how the swing arm guard looks after a few more rides. I'm hard on clutches generally so may be a YMMV situation.

-morgan

(hopefully) last question

Based on what I read (here) I need to get a 112 link chain which should work with either 13/46 or 13/48.

correct?

/b

bucktuckerman wrote:

(hopefully) last question

Based on what I read (here) I need to get a 112 link chain which should work with either 13/46 or 13/48.

correct?

/b

I have always had mixed luck buying chains of exact size: I generally buy a longer (120?) chain and cut to size once it's on the bike.  It's easiest with an official chain tool but can also be done relatively easily with a grinder or dremel.

-morgan

Thanks.
C-gear has a stockton chain tool on sale for 1/2 price, so I think I'll add that to the toolbox. It's a chainbreaker and rivet tool, but based on what I have read, a clip on master link should be ok.

/b

bucktuckerman wrote:

Thanks.
C-gear has a stockton chain tool on sale for 1/2 price, so I think I'll add that to the toolbox.  It's a chainbreaker and rivet tool, but based on what I have read, a clip on master link should be ok.

/b

Just be aware that stockton tools can really suck: I tried their fork seal driver and struggled. I ponied up for the Motion Pro and the seal went in perfectly. I've not used the stockton chain breaker/riveter.

Thanks for the heads up. Dad always said "buy good tools", so...

Will check out the MP.

/b

bucktuckerman wrote:

Thanks for the heads up.  Dad always said "buy good tools", so...

Will check out the MP.

/b

I've not used the MP but I think they don't have a combo tool. I have the RK brand: it's a breaker, riveter, and press: it does it all. I paid $100 for it probably 15 years ago.

-morgan

this one?

https://rkexcelamerica.com/products/chain-tool/

bucktuckerman wrote:

this one?

https://rkexcelamerica.com/products/chain-tool/

it's updated but yeah the parts are all the same from what I remember.

-morgan

morgan9283 wrote:

bucktuckerman wrote:

this one?

https://rkexcelamerica.com/products/chain-tool/

it's updated but yeah the parts are all the same from what I remember.

-morgan

Sorry, actually I think that's right but the presentation is weird. This is the set I have with an updated handle:
https://www.amazon.com/RK-Racing-Chain-UCT2100-Universal/dp/B00JKGJJL6

thanks!

Hi,

I hate to be nuisance, but I want to just make sure before I pull the trigger.

I'm ordering the RK chainbreaker. Looks to be one of the best.

I found a 48 tooth steel JT sprocket
After watching a couple of videos, it looks like I should get a 114 link chain.

D.I.D. 520 VX3 X-Ring Chain seems to be the way to go. So those things a DID 520 Chain Master Link and I should be good to go, correct?

I appreciate the help!

Regards,

Buck

www.gearingcommander.com can show you what chainlength is closest to stock, with a custom sprocket size.