Is it really worth it?

I've got an 08' R2 that I've just put Kenda Trackmasters on and geared it down to 13/47. I've removed the stock tail light assy and replaced with Tusk fender and lighting to clean it up, installed Renthal bars with hand guards. Finally got the bike into the mountains last weekend and was pleasantly surprised at the performance through rocks, mud, snow at 7000-8000 ft. My question is this, "Is it worth it to drop another $500 on an aftermarket exhaust and tuner to change the power on this bike?" I'm not looking to change it into a desert bike or motocross bike (I've got a Honda CRF450X for the desert), I'd just like to use this bike for mountain trail riding and the occassional few miles of pavement in between trails. Everyone seems to claim how great the exhaust/tuner mod is, but am I going to gain that much more performance, or even lose some bottom end with this mod? I can definitely understand trying to drop a few pounds off this bike as it seems carry about 20 pounds too much, but I know there's no way to accomplish that. Just looking for some honest insight before I spend the $$. Thanks!

I rode mine stock for a bit before doing the tuner/pipe. I liked how the bike performed with the 12T (pretty close to the gearing you have) in the bush trails. I have to be honest tho; when I did put on those mods, it turned into a completely different bike. It was like it woke up and grew wings. I can't say I've lost any bottom end, either. This thing snaps up whatever I toss at it and just keeps going. You know what it's like to have a head cold? You're stuffed up, you can do the job but not to your full potential. Same thing with the bike. Corked up it's like it has a head cold. It does what it does. Uncorked it does what it does, but so much better.

I have had trouble finding dynometer results for the totally stock machine though there are several for the modified machines, and the increases come with full modifications, and again these are for maximum HP gains. For the rpm range you are using for single track and general woods riding, I would question that much gain and it could even be a decrease in the 2500 to 5000 RPM range. Gearing is probably the the best way to make the WRR work in tight single track. As far as shedding some weight. It's heavy even if you can get 20 pounds off it. To me it sure doesn't feel as heavy as it is. The big plus is the license plate and that it is a Yamaha. I think we will be able to put some serious miles on these little machines. I would take the money and go for some rides, like a week in Silverton, Colorado. I did that several years back and it was one of the best times I've had on a motorcycle.

olddog wrote:

I have had trouble finding dynometer results for the totally stock machine though there are several for the modified machines, and the increases come with full modifications, and again these are for maximum HP gains. For the rpm range you are using for single track and general woods riding, I would question that much gain and it could even be a decrease in the 2500 to 5000 RPM range. Gearing is probably the the best way to make the WRR work in tight single track. As far as shedding some weight. It's heavy even if you can get 20 pounds off it. To me it sure doesn't feel as heavy as it is. The big plus is the license plate and that it is a Yamaha. I think we will be able to put some serious miles on these little machines. I would take the money and go for some rides, like a week in Silverton, Colorado. I did that several years back and it was one of the best times I've had on a motorcycle.

I need to check with the local Yamaha shop to see if my Kenda 270s will work on the Dyno they have. If they will, I may pay the $60 to get a run performed since mine is totally stock, performance-wise. If they can run the bike I'll post my stock dyno results.

desertblue wrote:

"Is it worth it to drop another $500 on an aftermarket exhaust and tuner to change the power on this bike?"

Yes.
Not only does the bike make more power and torque, but the throttle response and how the bike feels when you open and close the throttle is much better.

The way the bike comes is only to comply with EPA regs that are rediculously tight, not because it's the best setup for actually riding the bike.
If it weren't for these regulations, the bike would have probably rolled off the showroom running like it would once you install the parts you're wondering about, so do it and don't look back. :)
I actually had to remove my fuel programmer for one ride after I'd been using it for a month and I sorely missed it for that one afternoon - I couldn't wait to get it back on because the bike was better with it.

Important:
Also remove the thing known as the airbox flapper, another EPA device that wrecks your bike's performance.

Also, in my opinion, the bike needs even lower gearing because what it comes with is rediculously tall, another EPA gig.
I'm using 12/47 and it feels very good, indeed, and still hits 84mph - plenty out on the road and mucho better off-road.

I didn't feel any low end torque loss, either.
Just more everywhere with better throttle response.

I was going to leave my bike stock until I started hanging around this forum.. now I'm going all out with the mods..A little more power and I think this bike will be perfect

jason meacham wrote:

I was going to leave my bike stock until I started hanging around this forum.. now I'm going all out with the mods..

This is why friends should never let friends surf this forum alone....

Thanks for the input, I've put bids in on both the Q4 and programmer.