Bone stock

Ok here we go -

My WR250R is completely stock - everything is OEM and no mods at all. I'm glad that the previous owner didn't do anything with it actually. She's still a virgin. Anyway, I've been searching around and have read about diets for the bike because of it's weight, changing the gearing to something more suiting a preferred riding style, and a problem with the rear sprocket rubber piece (2008). For now I don't intend to do too much other than ride it for a while and see what I really want/need to change on it rather than do all the popular mods.

So, here are my questions - did you leave your bike bone stock for a while or start wrenching on it while the price tag was still hanging from the handle bars? Is that rubberized rear sprocket a must for replacing? And if you did keep it stock for a while what did you change first?

There is a dizzying array of aftermarket stuff out there and an even wider range of opinions on what to use. Hell, I can't even figure out what handlebars to get. So I decided not to decide at all.

change a dollar for your two cents...

Mine was stock for a short duration. The tires were the first to go after 2 rides. Nasty things. I think the first mods were the skid plate and rad guard...then it was wide open. Mods are like a tattoo; you can't stop at one.

It literally didn't last a day in the stock configuration.

...and it's not done. Perhaps never will be.

I'm going to school on this WR so when I get one for me (looking around to see if she's watching me type) I'll have made any mistakes on hers. * laugh *

I'm a stock kinda guy. I ride it until something breaks then replace that something with something that hopefully won't.

I'm all stock and usually leave all my bikes completely stock except for luggage and frame sliders. On the WRR I've added a rack and power outler. I'm planning on adding a windshield for longer trips too.

I add a fuel controller to an otherwise stock bike and it really smoothed it out and I still get more than 60mpg. The only other mods are/will be a tail rack, some old cortech saddle bags I had laying around and taller bars.

Don't be in a rush; if you like it as it is, ride it! I put 8,000 miles on my stock sprockets. I kept an eye on the classifieds and bought most of my add-ons used.

Sarah

I rode my 2008 WR-250R in stock condition once for a few miles, and when I pulled back into the garage, I signed onto this website to read what was being done to these bikes to make them run well (I felt it was way too plugged-up with EPA regs.).

If you, too, ever feel like the bike is too weak (because it is off the showroom floor), this is what is being done to them:

*Remove the airbox flapper.
*Remove the AIS (Air Injection System).
*Install a fuel programmer (an electronic jet kit for the fuel injection).
*Aftermarket exhaust, and most use the FMF Q4.
*Remove the way-too-tall stock final drive gearing (13/43 sprockets) and go with something Yamaha would have put on the bike if they could have, like 12/45 for a start.
I like 12/47.
If putting on a smaller front sprocket scares you (it does to some people), go with 13/50 or 13/51.

YZEtc wrote:

Remove the way-too-tall stock final drive gearing (13/43 sprockets) and go with something Yamaha would have put on the bike if they could have, like 12/45 for a start. I like 12/47.
If putting on a smaller front sprocket scares you (it does to some people), go with 13/50 or 13/51.

These ratios that YZEtc are telling you about are really good trail ratios but a little too extreme if you want to take it down the road. I have 13/47 right now and I really like it. I probably could go 13/48 but that is it. I live in an area that I need to be able to go interstate speeds and going any more extreme will not work for me. You will need a new chain if you keep the 13 tooth front sprocket and try to change the gearing.

duanew wrote:

These ratios that YZEtc are telling you about are really good trail ratios but a little too extreme if you want to take it down the road. I have 13/47 right now and I really like it. I probably could go 13/48 but that is it. I live in an area that I need to be able to go interstate speeds and going any more extreme will not work for me. You will need a new chain if you keep the 13 tooth front sprocket and try to change the gearing.

+1 I'd keep it to 13/46 or 13/47 if you're going to do much pavement and keep the really tall gearing for the trail. Either way, it really does need to be geared down and if there was only one thing I would change on a stock bike it would be the gearing . . . well, and add a skidplate - but I ride in the rocks.

I've got 12/43 and it does just fine on pavement (fine as in I can pass traffic and have lots left over). It's as close to the 13/47 gearing without having to spend bigger bucks on the rear sprocket AND the chain. Front sprocket will run you anywhere from $15 -$20 vs over $100 doing the rear/chain. You can change the rear sprocket to a 45T if you keep the 13 without having to buy a new chain.

Kept mine stock for a while. I need time to evaluate. Now I have done all the popular mods. The first one was the bars, but that was because I stumbled onto a silly deal. My intended first mod was the gearing. Which if I could only make one performance mod this would be the one. I went 13/46. the reasoning can be found here: https://wr250rforum.forumotion.com/oh-those-sweet-mods-f5/chains-and-sprockets-t5-240.htm . In fact tons of good info here. As with all Sticky's.

The ironic thing is that since I have a WR-250F for off-road riding, my WR-250R stays on the street. :)
I cruise between 55-65mph most of the time.

I actually ordered most of my off road oriented farkles the day before I picked up my bike!

Nothing wrong with stock rear sprocket except it's noisy / clatters.

The bike will be spending most of its time on two lane roads, gravel roads and the bi-weekly run through some fire roads and double track trail riding. I have no idea how changing the gearing will affect the bike up or down, tall or short. Perhaps I will just keep the gearing in mind and change it if I don't like it - you'll all be the first to know.

Sounds like I need a skidplate though. You guys like the Flatlands? That B&B plate is great looking, but damned expensive and is all the way down in Australia.

spidersoup wrote:

The bike will be spending most of its time on two lane roads, gravel roads and the bi-weekly run through some fire roads and double track trail riding. I have no idea how changing the gearing will affect the bike up or down, tall or short. Perhaps I will just keep the gearing in mind and change it if I don't like it - you'll all be the first to know.

Sounds like I need a skidplate though. You guys like the Flatlands? That B&B plate is great looking, but damned expensive and is all the way down in Australia.

in all honesty i wouldn't waist my money on a skid plate.

for the type of riding you outlined all it will do is make you bike more annoying. I have rubber on mine and its still annoying on long trips.

Buying a skidplate is peace of mind when you do go off road and happen to come across stuff that could cause you headaches (rocks, sticks, other stuff). Even tho you aren't going to be doing any stump jumping per se, it's added security in the event you do happen to hit something. Kinda like driving a 4x4 without a bumper in the bush.
I have the B&B from Oz, Spider, and I absolutely love it. It took only 4 days to get from there to here in Canada after ordering it, and customer service is excellent. I have NO NOISE whatsoever from it. It comes with insulation attached to the inside of the plate where it rests against the frame, and also uses the rear motor mounts/bolts as a mounting point, not screws like the others. VERY sturdy.

I'm in the "Can't keep it stock!" camp myself. A stock bike is soiled with compromises. The factory installs lots of things you don't want or need to meet certain restrictions (emissions, noise, safety) and doesn't install a lot of things you do want to keep costs down and keep the bike as bullet-proof as they can (at least during the warranty period). So, to me, modifying the bike consists of stripping it to the bare essentials (or leaving the bells and whistles I want), and installing all the things the factory didn't. Simple as that.

My WRR was stock for a few days before I put on the basics (skid plate, radiator guard, etc.). Since then, it's been slowly getting transformed. Since I'm about 220lbs in gear (maybe a bit more after a few pancakes ), I knew I needed more power and better gearing. With the bike completely opened from intake to exhaust and the fuel map altered, I only need to fix the gearing to get what I want out of it.

Oh yeah, the stock tires aren't THAT bad if you don't know what good tires are like. Yeah, I probably need better tires.

Well I guess I'm in the "if everyone else is doing it..." camp. I purchased the STR fork bleeder valves that Ramsey uses and the Flatlands skid plate. I looked at the B&B plate again and it's damn sexy, but hell - it's $170 CAD! If I use a foam insert and grommets and rubber insulation will it still make an annoying sound? So what is the sound anyway? Just reverb from vibes in that area of the bike?

I put on a Ricochet skidplate,Acerbis handgaurds,and a Corbin seat after about 1000 miles and told myself that I wouldn't put any more money into it. Then,,,I came across this forum and I couldn't help myself. About $1500 later and I love my WRR now. I put on Dunlop 606s and they are way better off road than the stock deathwings. I put on a full FMF exhaust,FMF fuel programmer,exup and ais removal,k+N airfilter,modified airbox(highfive style),Sandman front sprocket cover,JT 13t front sprocket,Sunstar 47t rear sprocket, Bikemaster chain,removed the rear passenger pegs,helmet lock, removed a couple of inches off the tail and moved my plate up a few inches. This winter I plan on doing my whole suspension over..I plan on keeping this bike for a while so that's how I justify to myself spending so much........I will sell my WRR only when Yamaha comes out with a WR450r..

I bought a used Ricochet plate and the racket was so bad I couldn't stand it. I don't know if it's a combination of engine/road noise thrown back at you or what, but I couldn't wait to get back to the house. Foam weather-stripping tape on the frame rails took care of it completely, didn't need longer screws.

Sarah

SheWolf wrote:

I've got 12/43 and it does just fine on pavement (fine as in I can pass traffic and have lots left over). It's as close to the 13/47 gearing without having to spend bigger bucks on the rear sprocket AND the chain. Front sprocket will run you anywhere from $15 -$20 vs over $100 doing the rear/chain. You can change the rear sprocket to a 45T if you keep the 13 without having to buy a new chain.

Here's my recent order for reference, from Rocky Mountain ATV...just want to show the current pricing, I was very pleased. Went from 12/43 to 13/48 with new Xring chain. Rear sprocket had both flush and recessed mounting holes, no new bolts needed . Free 3day air shipping

(No personal links to company, just a nice deal)

Primary Drive Front Sprocket 13 Tooth - 2008 Yamaha WR250R	1021470103	$8.99	1	$8.99
Primary Drive 520 ORH X-Ring Chain 520x112	1021250016	$58.44	1	$58.44
Motion Pro Mini Chain Press Tool For 520 Chain	1096240001	$16.99	1	$16.99
Primary Drive Rear Steel Sprocket 48 Tooth - 2008 Yamaha WR250R	1022350057	$19.99	1	$19.99

Every motorcycle I own or want to own is stock. Once one bolt is goobered with adding, subtracting or whatever the motorcycle no longer has any value to me, so you guys with the tippy fenders, stuback tank ect, your motorcycle has no more appeal to me and I would never contemplate purchase regardless of price. For this reason I only buy new and always have. My WR250R was totally stock and I decided I did not particularly care for it, so 6 months and 600 miles was plenty enough for me to know this was not a keeper for me, so search continues. I have old Kawasaki KZ650 street bikes I have enjoyed for over 30 years stock, old KZ1000s, even an old H2 triple I've had for 31 years now. Suppose I don't need any more. Have a 2008 Goldwing that works just like a top and love it too. Oh well, I thought after 20,000 plus miles on old Yamaha enduros back in the 70s a stock WR250R should be wonderful. I'd take back my old 75 DT400 that was better for me.

Oh Those Sour Mods!

WR250RON wrote:

Every motorcycle I own or want to own is stock. Once one bolt is goobered with adding, subtracting or whatever the motorcycle no longer has any value to me, so you guys with the tippy fenders, stuback tank ect, your motorcycle has no more appeal to me and I would never contemplate purchase regardless of price. For this reason I only buy new and always have. My WR250R was totally stock and I decided I did not particularly care for it, so 6 months and 600 miles was plenty enough for me to know this was not a keeper for me, so search continues. I have old Kawasaki KZ650 street bikes I have enjoyed for over 30 years stock, old KZ1000s, even an old H2 triple I've had for 31 years now. Suppose I don't need any more. Have a 2008 Goldwing that works just like a top and love it too. Oh well, I thought after 20,000 plus miles on old Yamaha enduros back in the 70s a stock WR250R should be wonderful. I'd take back my old 75 DT400 that was better for me.

To each their own. Good luck on finding a bike that fits you. We'll keep modding ours and enjoying the shit out of them.