New (to me) WR250X and new to the forum!

Hey guys, I posted this on TT, but they sent me here...I'm glad to see a focused forum for the 250x anyway!

I'm full of questions, I'm sure you're used to seeing them, but bear with me, ok?

My WR250X is a 2008 model with low miles. I bought it with the intention of enjoying the twisties and also putting dirt wheels on it and enjoying some mild trails back behind my house.

I hope I don't crush you guys with too many questions, but here goes:

1. I hope this isn't a "too late!" question, but once I have the dirt wheel swap parts, how difficult is the swap once you've done it a time or two? I'm pretty mechanically inclined.

So, what parts do I need? I assume I need to get the wheel set from Wheeling Supply, but what else do I need?

2. I'd consider getting a larger tank. One day I'd like to do the TAT with this bike, and for that I'd sure need a larger tank. Is there one available that doesn't ruin the "supermoto" fun on the street? (the obvious answer is put less gas in it, but do they shift the weight into a weird place?)

3. I notice that big plastic case cover on the side...I know the DRZs have stick on case covers, do I need any more protection for my X?

4. What other good accessories should I consider for really using this bike as a Dual Purpose? I'm all ears...

Thanks again folks...

Welcome!

To answer just a few...

Dirt Wheels, yes - Forrest at Wheeling Cycle is a great source. He can help you with all the little bits too. In addition to the wheels, you need brake discs and a rear sprocket - you don't want to swap *those* back & forth. 20-30 minutes for a wheel swap once you've done it a few times is quite reasonable, maybe a tad less if you don't have to adjust the chain. Consider your brake options - we've put X-sized discs on the dirt wheels so that we don't have to deal with calliper relocation or anything like that.

Big tanks - our 3gallon IMS tanks arrived yesterday, so I can't offer any opinions yet!

If you're going to head off-road, an aluminum skid plate is a good idea, as are hand guards of some variety. For street use you my want to consider axle sliders, but they can get hung up on rocks off-road (just ask ZED how we know that ).

Enjoy your new bike!

Congrats on the purchase, its always good to have a fellow X rider on the forum. Good luck with the future upgrades!!

The open the airbox and lose the taillight for a smaller one. These are my only 2 mods so far and I love my x. opening the airbox made more difference than I ever thought it would. Welcome to the forum and enjoy!!

dustcloud wrote:

The open the airbox and lose the taillight for a smaller one. These are my only 2 mods so far and I love my x. opening the airbox made more difference than I ever thought it would. Welcome to the forum and enjoy!!

Do you have a fuel programmer? So opening up the air box without a fuel programmer doesn't cause any ill effects?

Well, lets see...you have 2 options for aftermarket tanks at this point. IMS has a tank that you can use your stock shrouds on, so it retains the stock look. It holds 3 gallons. The Safari holds 3.5, is alot wider and you lose that stock look. Some like it, others despise it. Guess it all depends on what you want. IMS will also be coming out with a 4.5 gallon as well, but it's in the build phase so it'll be a bit yet. You can get in on a pre-release deal thru IMS right now if you want the 3 gallon as it hasn't been released to the general public yet, and it's probably the most supermoto friendly one I've seen. It doesn't sit as high or as wide as the Safari. We have a group buy going on here, so if you get on the list you can get the reduced price before it goes to full price in less than a month.

Off road, I'd be getting a skid plate and a rad guard; two very important pieces of armor for off road. Hand guards/barkbusters are also another option if you want to keep branches from smacking your fingers. Also great for some wind/cold reduction on the highway. Disk guards come in handy if you ride rocky/hard obstacly stuff and can spare a dinged up rotor. That would be the biggies for off road armor.
Gearing is a preference. I went down a tooth in the front (12T) as many others have, just so you can use the gears more efficiently off road. On road you can still keep up with highway traffic and still pass ppl. I swap between the 12 and the stock 13 depending on where I ride. Off road is the 12, highway runs the 13. The front one is also the easiest route, as well as the cheapest. Rear sprockets will be more, and after you go past 45T, you'll have to go to a longer chain. 13/45 is the limit with the stock chain.

Hmmm....tail racks come in handy and there are a few different ones to choose from. If you REALLY want to have fun with that thing...get an exhasut system/fuel programmer. The bike really benefits from unplugging it and opening it up. Airbox, AIS removal, EXUP...getting rid of that and going to a free-flow system with a fuel tuner wakes this thing up like it's been in a coma. Don't get me wrong; many enjoy the bike as is stock, but to get the true potential of the bike, you gotta open her right up.

SheWolf, great info! I might get one of those tanks. I suppose I could carry an extra fuel bottle if I feel like I might need it...the bike seems to get insane fuel mileage.

Do I need case guards, and do they exist? I have discovered that the large black plastic plate on the right is the cover for the oil filter...does a metal one exist, or is that a major concern?

Still confused on the wheels. I'd rather do the setup that allows me to keep the caliper in place (same caliper) and just switch wheels. In that case, I need the dirt wheel set from Wheeling, and what else?

Thanks much for the help!

sr1 wrote:

Still confused on the wheels. I'd rather do the setup that allows me to keep the caliper in place (same caliper) and just switch wheels. In that case, I need the dirt wheel set from Wheeling, and what else?

Dirt wheel set, brake discs for both wheels (X-sized front so that you don't have to move the calliper), rear sprocket. Voila! Done!

sr1 wrote:

Still confused on the wheels. I'd rather do the setup that allows me to keep the caliper in place (same caliper) and just switch wheels. In that case, I need the dirt wheel set from Wheeling, and what else?

You'll need an 'X' disc for the front and rear wheels, and a sprocket for the rear wheel.
And you'll need dirt tubes/tires front and back.
I'll probably get a set of Wheeling dirty wheels for my X some time this winter....

So far my only mod has been a fuel programmer (I went with the Attitude Industries.) IMHO, that is THE BEST first performance mod to make. And since it's programmable, you can adjust it for any subsequent mods (I have an FMF Q4 and MegaBomb ready to install, along the the Krabil AIS removal kit - just need to find time to do it!)

And welcome to the forum.

Did some more reading, and then did some more thinking...

The interesting and challenging thing about being an expat and being a 27 hour flight away from your bikes is that you mull over every possibility while you have some free time...that's bad for the wallet!

In this case though, I think I've backlashed a little. My intent for the bike is really for a TAT machine + some fun in local twisties, which are right outside the bike's garage, so no need to go long distance on the highway. This means that reliability, fuel mileage/capacity, weight, and comfort will be key factors, not necessarily power. I was getting all interested in headers, exhausts, and programmers, but really I don't think I'll need to do that, and would be concerned about whittling away at the reliability aspect.

The 3 gallon tank sounds like a must-do, soon. I'll have to look around for that group buy thread, unless someone has a link they'd throw me. lol ;)

Also, sounds like the wheel/disk setup is pretty simple...I'll watch the classifieds, just in case, but I know where to get it new.

I think a bash plate and a radiator guard would be a good idea, and the bike came with G2 handguards.

Still haven't heard on any forum about the plastic oil filter cover, if that's what it really is (I'm now far away from the bike, like I said). Seems open to damage. Case guards?

On the chain/sprockets: If I go down to a 12 on the front, can I go up one size on the rear and keep the same chain, or am I stuck at only changing one sprocket at a time? (Idea would be to have the SM wheels stock gearing and have the dirt wheels -1 front / +1 rear)

I might look around for other seating options, so I can get some distance out of the bike.

Lastly, on the airbox mod, if that's done alone, what's the value? Can this be done without the programmer and still be effective without taxing the engine (heat perhaps?)

Thanks all for your excellent answers so far!

sr1 wrote:

Lastly, on the airbox mod, if that's done alone, what's the value? Can this be done without the programmer and still be effective without taxing the engine (heat perhaps?)

I wouldnt do it, the stock is allready super lean, more air in there without sufficient fuel I wouldn't dare it...

A programmer is definatly the way to go as far as the ''first'' performance mods. But it'll just smooth things out until you open up the exhaust as well, that too is plugged up badly stock. To really get the difference, you kinda have to open the air box, get the programmer, change the exhaust... they're all sort of multiplicative mods so you only the big boost when it's all done.

But ifnot doing it all at once, definatly start with the programmer.

sr1,

Welcome from another WR250X owner. I bought my X mainly due to short crippled legs; needed every little bit of lowering. I did the Yamalink and the factory Yamaha lowering adjustment, too. Fits me great.

Having said all that, I bought my X mainly for dirt since I live on a horrific washboard dirt road. Following Rydnseek (Thanks Scotty!) lead, I put on Shinko 244 knobbies. And just like Scotty says, the thing still corners like mad on pavement!

So there is one option to 2 sets of wheels, tires etc. I'm too lazy to be changing wheel sets very often anyway.

The 244's like many tires sometimes need a lot of lead to balance. Beware of motorcycle shops who say "yeah, I checked the balance just like you asked and they were only 2 grams off so I didn't add any lead". BS. After being told that, one of my tires ACTUALLY took 63 grams of lead to balance. I bought a balancer so as not to be at the mercy of lying bike shops again. Cost $105.

Some speculate that the fat knobbies will be imprecise in the dirt. I do not find that to be the case. I've had my X in some super rough country and it's an easy joy to ride whereas my pig (super well farkled KLR) was a dangerous fight. Can't wait to try the fat knobbies on sand; supposedly one of their fortes.

Back to topic: That black plastic cover on the right case is NOT the oil filter cover. So far as I know, it's a "kinda' sorta' case protector". The oil pump cover is about half that size and is in front of that, You remove 3 bolts with 8mm heads in a triangle pattern and remove the cover. Please remember to be very careful NOT to overtorque those bolts. Spec is higher, but I use sub spec on some bolts so I only use 55 inch pounds (NOT foot pounds) on these bolts.

I'll link you over to another WRR thread where HighFive does an article on oil changes so you can see the proper cover in pics... some good tips in there, too.


As for case protectors, I don't know of any. The closest I know of is this: Many of the skid plates have "wing" looking things that stick out that do a fair job of protecting the cases. If there is something else, hopefully other inmates will tune in.


Welcome once again!


Have fun/ride safe,

ar-2

sr1,

Here is that link. This other site also has a lot of great info from HighFive, Krabill and other super valuable contributors - IMHO.

Artoo

http://www.wrrdualsport.com/tech-guide/maintenance/93-oilchange

sr1,

Opinions will vary on what the airbox mod alone will do. I used HighFive's ultimate airbox mod from the other website I linked to, I think.

Most agree getting rid of the airbox flapper valve will help get rid of some of the throttle snatchiness off idle. This snappy kind of jerk off idle is sometimes common with EFI bikes and there's a lot of info out there.

It appears people are divided about 50/50 on whether the airbox mod without other mods really makes much difference for power other than more intake noise. The "butt dyno" is like that. Very subjective.


HighFive did some dyno testing and developed the opinion that both ends of the bike are "plugged up" pretty bad from the factory as is common these days for EPA, noise, etc. He basically says both ends need to be "unplugged" to make a measurable difference... and then, it'll be lean enough it probably needs a fuel programmer to be safe and to grab the big improvement from unplugging it.

I did HF's mods all at once so I cannot give an opinion on what the airbox mod alone will do. Just what I've read:

Some say: "Oh yeah, noticeable power increase." Others say: "Probably only noise at this point."


ar-II

Artoo, thanks. Your posts are really well thought out (not that other's aren't of course!)

Here's a can-o-worms question... I've already hit on this myself, assuming the FMF pipe, headers, re-programming and all will negatively affect the reliability of the engine. Is my assumption incorrect? Perhaps THIS bike can take it without additional strain, burned valves, whatever...or not. I did notice a lot of snatchiness just in the few days I was able to ride the bike. I also own a 1200GS and have no snatchiness whatsoever with that...I'd like the same with the Yamaha.

Like I said, i do expect that the bike will be asked to make some long distance off-road miles. If that means its better off stock, then so be it. I have the money for the upgrades...but is it the right thing to do for my needs?

On the tank, SheWolf, I will need it, but I'm not going to get on the list now. I have approx 1 year before I'll have the opportunity to even ride the bike (as far as I know now) and it does seem that people are making adjustments to the tank upon receipt...might be better if I wait, there's only a $25 difference or so, and I'm not in a hurry. Will get one though, I'm sure the 3 gallon IMS is the right fit for my needs.

Thanks all.

sr1 wrote:

Artoo, thanks. Your posts are really well thought out (not that other's aren't of course!)

Here's a can-o-worms question... I've already hit on this myself, assuming the FMF pipe, headers, re-programming and all will negatively affect the reliability of the engine. Is my assumption incorrect? Perhaps THIS bike can take it without additional strain, burned valves, whatever...or not. I did notice a lot of snatchiness just in the few days I was able to ride the bike. I also own a 1200GS and have no snatchiness whatsoever with that...I'd like the same with the Yamaha.

Like I said, i do expect that the bike will be asked to make some long distance off-road miles. If that means its better off stock, then so be it. I have the money for the upgrades...but is it the right thing to do for my needs?

On the tank, SheWolf, I will need it, but I'm not going to get on the list now. I have approx 1 year before I'll have the opportunity to even ride the bike (as far as I know now) and it does seem that people are making adjustments to the tank upon receipt...might be better if I wait, there's only a $25 difference or so, and I'm not in a hurry. Will get one though, I'm sure the 3 gallon IMS is the right fit for my needs.

Thanks all.

Valve adjustment intervals are 26,000 miles, so I think the engine can handle a few small mods. I mean, they probably knew that about 90% of us were going to modify the bike, when they built it. And your only talking about a few horsepower with modifications. It's not like your doubling your horsepower.

[quote="adamoto"]

sr1 wrote:

It's not like your doubling your horsepower.

Well, with every hp it's a 5% increase, right? Seems like if you guys are all doing it, there must be a large felt difference... I'm concerned about the reliability, like I said, but I can be swayed...

Dude - when's the last time you heard about reliability issues with any Yamaha???

For the wr250X there are big-bore kits & turbo kits.

I've yet to hear of any issues that are not directly related to submerging the poor little bike under water.

The engine is 1/4 of a R1.

Run it like you stole it. It's bullet proof.

motokid wrote:

Dude - when's the last time you heard about reliability issues with any Yamaha???

For the wr250X there are big-bore kits & turbo kits.

I've yet to hear of any issues that are not directly related to submerging the poor little bike under water.

The engine is 1/4 of a R1.

Run it like you stole it. It's bullet proof.

I second that!!

[quote="sr1"]

adamoto wrote:

sr1 wrote:

It's not like your doubling your horsepower.

Well, with every hp it's a 5% increase, right? Seems like if you guys are all doing it, there must be a large felt difference... I'm concerned about the reliability, like I said, but I can be swayed...

sr1,

Thanks for the positive input about my responses. I hope to make sense sometimes!

I agree with those who cite the R1 heritage of the engine as cause to believe it's a strong one.

I've been reading the monster thread and this website for awhile now. I have not personally seen any testimonials referring to mechanical failures that appeared to be from having the typical power mods.

I've wondered if the FMF programmer might have a long term failure rate higher than stock Yamaha electronics, but figure I could remove it and limp home on the stock ECU if it ever breaks.

I have a 2008, so I sometimes worry about possible right side main bearing failure, but again from what I've read, that seems rare. It must happen often enough though that Yamaha chose to update the bearing used in later bikes.

So I guess to answer your question: I don't worry about the mods causing a failure very much. I do have some probably unfounded concerns about the small probability that my 08 might lose the right side main bearing. But that's because of the bearing update issue, not mods.

Could the mods accelerate a main bearing failure of a bearing that was otherwise on it's way out? Probably but might be hard to prove.

Here is one thing that may cause some failures: If someone mods the bike, it's then possible to run it too lean. I think that would eventually accelerate some wear or burn a valve or something. I guess running lean could lead to quicker valve seat recession, too. I went ahead and tried HighFive's FMF programmer settings since my mods mirrored his and his setup was flogged thoroughly on a dyno. It's been working great and I haven't noted anything to make me think it's running lean. But I haven't pulled the spark plug to "read" it, either. I find reading plugs to be a bit less than informative when running them on unleaded fuel. Opinions will definitely vary on that.

Finally: I suspect that how a person rides has more effect on the bike's wear than these mods. Dirty environment all the time? Really beats on the bike versus average user? Misses the oil change interval frequently?

Anyway, if anything breaks on my bike I'll be sure to post it prominently somewhere. Especially if I come to believe that any of the mods led to the failure.


Artoo


P.S.: Some others mentioned immersion in water causing some problems. It's a good point. I think one of the inmates who lost the right side main bearing on an 08 had flooded the engine in a river and he also wondered if this accelerated or triggered a possibly borderline bearing to go out.

r2

sr1 wrote:

Artoo, thanks. Your posts are really well thought out (not that other's aren't of course!)

Here's a can-o-worms question... I've already hit on this myself, assuming the FMF pipe, headers, re-programming and all will negatively affect the reliability of the engine. Is my assumption incorrect? Perhaps THIS bike can take it without additional strain, burned valves, whatever...or not. I did notice a lot of snatchiness just in the few days I was able to ride the bike. I also own a 1200GS and have no snatchiness whatsoever with that...I'd like the same with the Yamaha.

Like I said, i do expect that the bike will be asked to make some long distance off-road miles. If that means its better off stock, then so be it. I have the money for the upgrades...but is it the right thing to do for my needs?

On the tank, SheWolf, I will need it, but I'm not going to get on the list now. I have approx 1 year before I'll have the opportunity to even ride the bike (as far as I know now) and it does seem that people are making adjustments to the tank upon receipt...might be better if I wait, there's only a $25 difference or so, and I'm not in a hurry. Will get one though, I'm sure the 3 gallon IMS is the right fit for my needs.

Thanks all.

I did the mods all at once, so I can't really say much about which helped. From what I read, here are things that help:

1.) Adjust throttle cables to get rid of the big sloppy lash from the factory.
2.) Adjust chain tension properly.
3.) Removing flapper from airbox and EXUP is supposed to help.
4.) Aftermarket fuel controller properly adjusted is supposed to help.
5.) I added a Throttle Tamer and this definitely helped.
6.) Lower gearing

The last item is counterintuitive to me. I'd have thought that would make it worse, but inmates say "not so".

G2 Ergonomics sells throttle tamers for a lot of bikes; mostly selected types of the EFI injected bullet bikes. So this makes me think it's a fairly common problem. I've also read that a lot of OTHER EFI bikes are well sorted out from the factory and don't have this behavior. Some models do, some don't. But it's not isolated to the WRR/X's from what I read.

Anyway, I'd read all this stuff (throttle snatchiness, 2008 main bearing, etc) before buying so I went into it with my eyes open.

It took some work, but I've lately ridden my bike in some really scary low traction conditions and the throttle is very precise. In fact, at times I felt like I was on a trials bike!

It think's it's a mountain goat!

Quite a few people have posted and said that just the super low buck items from the list above helped a lot. So things like the throttle tamer might not be necessary depending on how/where you ride.

Hope the info helps,

ar-II

Welcome! I'm in the same boat as you in that the WR is at home while we are in Europe for a bit (hopefully not too much longer).

Anyway, in terms of the "snatchiness" or whatever in the throttle... Um, who cares? If your other bike is a GS, you know the clutch is a toggle switch in those things and it has what, almost 4 times the power (and weight ), so I wouldn't be too concerned with just about dumping the clutch in the little bike out of the hole. On the trail and the like, it is irrelevant. I'd like a few more horsies, but like you, I'm not willing to sacrifice reliability, so I deal with less power and then just smoke everyone on the trail.

I've not not done jack to modify my wife's bike, and it's just fine for me in terms of power and fun. Understand the bike is never going to be able to keep up with your GS- on road- and appreciate it's TAT prowess, and you'll never be unhappy. You are correct in wanting the bigger tank as a first choice as I'm accustomed to well over a 300 mile (and sometimes over 400) range on my GSA and filling up every 100 miles gets annoying to me.

Get the bash plate and some good trails tools/spares and ride it!

Longtallsally, if your GSA has a on/off clutch then I'd say its somewhat abnormal. The clutch on my GS is buttery smooth and even the fuel injection is pretty smooth off-idle. That said, I didn't complain about the WR, but it is pretty darn snatchy by comparison. Agreed, not a huge issue due to lack of power, unless you are reallllly leaned over and in a low gear.

sr1 wrote:

Longtallsally, if your GSA has a on/off clutch then I'd say its somewhat abnormal. The clutch on my GS is buttery smooth and even the fuel injection is pretty smooth off-idle. That said, I didn't complain about the WR, but it is pretty darn snatchy by comparison. Agreed, not a huge issue due to lack of power, unless you are reallllly leaned over and in a low gear.

Well, actually, it is quite correct. This is my second GS1200 and both have been a toggle switch (24k on the first and just about 40k on the current one). The reason why they are like this is that they have a single plate clutch unlike most other bikes that have multi plate clutches. Mate that to a torque monster motor, and you get a slightly less smooth takeoff until you're used to it. It is quite well known that you are never to slip the clutch in them off road as you'll fry it right away and they ain't cheap. Fueling is spot on, but the trannies are known to be quite clunky. Once you get past those things, you come to realize they truly are the best all round bikes on the road.

However, for the giggle factor, the WR wins most of the time. I drag the pegs and leave darkies with my wife's even with the D606s on and just think it is a hoot. It's probably then that I should be glad it doesn't have a lot of power.