sprocket and chain question 14-47 ?

Would the 14 front and 47 rear match the stock gearing ratio?? I would not want to go taller than stock gearing.

Any idea how many chain links for that set up??


Eventually when I have to replace chain, I am thinking going up front and back would provide better longivity for the chain.

Anyone try this?? Any issues with swing arm and slider clearance?

14/47 is a pinch lower than the stock 13/43.
14/46 would be a pinch taller, so, looks like it's 14/47 to meet your specs. :)

When I used 12/47 on my WR-250R, my chain had to be 110 links (stock is 108 links).
My guess is yours will be 110, or possibly 112.
Shoot for 112, and you can always shorten it to 110 if need be.

Myself, I don't sweat what diameter my front sprocket is.
I can say that I've never associated my chain wear with the size of my front sprockets.

Good point. Lots of mud and dirt will eat them right up. With time though, I may be farkling the WR into an adventure touring bike as an alter ego. Long life on the chain starts to be a concern when you head down this path.

Oh... thanks for the technical data.

I saw the threads on folks having issues with the lower slider getting chewed up and threatening the swing arm.

Any chance a 14 - 47 sprocket combo would move the chain away from the slider and stop this??

The guys posting about that trouble were running 12-tooth front sprockets, and the notion was then thrown around that WR-250R riders should avoid a 12-tooth front sprocket at all costs.
It was the bottoms of the chain sliders that were getting sawed through.
How do you think that happens?
Chain too tight?
Rear suspension sagging way down due to lots of weight being carried?
Lots of closed-throttle coasting and resulting in the bottom run of the chain being forced to saw into the slider?
A 12-tooth front combined with the smallish 43-tooth out back?
I'd like to know, myself, just out of curiosity.

For every one guy complaining about this, there's probably who-knows-how-many who never had a problem, including myself.
In fact, when my WR-250R ran a 12-tooth front sprocket for 7,500 miles, at the end of that milage when I sold the bike, the slider barely had any wear on it, never mind having been sawed-through.

If you are worried about it, I'd just stick with a stock 13-tooth sprocket and change the rear sprocket to suit your gearing.
I wouldn't be surprised if you'd have to remove the stock "case saver" in order for a 14-tooth to fit.

Thanks for teh reply.

bsheet2 wrote:

I saw the threads on folks having issues with the lower slider getting chewed up and threatening the swing arm.

Any chance a 14 - 47 sprocket combo would move the chain away from the slider and stop this??

bsheet2,

As mentioned in Lynn's new thread, I can partially confirm this. I installed 14/50 (equivalent ratio to 12/43 pretty much).

While checking out what the new tensioning should be, I removed the shock linkage and ran the suspension through it's travel to make sure I didn't have it overtight and wreck the CS bearing or seal.

After reassembly, I then recorded the distance from chain to swingarm on the sidestand so I can re-tension without removing the linkage. It was WAY MORE than either of dimensions given by Yamaha (original or revised).

With tension verified and set at 1/2" play at the tightest part of the travel, it "LOOKS" to me like the chain shouldn't ever even touch the slider.

But I really couldn't see well in there while working the suspension thru it's travel so I can't guarantee it.

As mentioned in the other thread, I'll report back after some time with what, if anything, the new sprox/chain setup does to the slider. I looked at the slider very well off the bike so I know it has some nominal grooves in it. I'll probably be able to say whether it's getting eaten alive or not after a bit.

Come to think of it, with the gold RK chain, I should easily be able to see if the chain is getting worn on that inside edge or not... another indicator, no?

As for now, it looks like way more clearance.

Just to keep the info complete in both places, I had to heat and bend the upper rear chainguard as it was rubbing on the chain pretty hard (the rear curved lip of it) with the 50 sprocket. This was easily done with a cig lighter... just heated the plastic guard until it started to look a little shiny; used a gloved hand to reshape it; let cool; perfectamundo.

Larry

BigFeet, thanks for reponding. I will be very interested in your results.

THe WRR I just bought had been lowered and it does have some wear on the slider. I put it back to stock height and I also released the linkage so I could test the chain tension at tightest point to make sure I knew how to adjust the chain relative to the swing arm. It looks like it should be fine now. But time will tell. I will keep and eye on it.

bsheet2,

You're welcomed. Your post reminded me of something I should say for the thread; I think I forgot to state this.

My bike is lowered; supposedly 2" although I would say it's actually more like 1.4". So perhaps whatever my result turns out to be over time, it'll only be a relevant indicator for lowered bikes.

L

I'll stay tuned in. I've been wondering about 14/49. That's just a tad lower than the 13/45 I'm running.

Sarah

Sarah, you running a 108 or a 110 link chain with that 13x45 combo?

Just want to point-out that I edited my above post because I was running 12/47 sprockets with a 110-link chain.
Old age creeping in. ;)

The way it worked for me on my WR-250R, 12/45 just fit and allowed proper chain slack adjustment with the stock 108-link chain - the rear wheel axle was all the way forward to achieve this.
I get the feeling that 13/45 might actually fit on the bike with the 108-link chain, but not have any adjustment left at the rear axle to get proper chain slack.

YZEtc wrote:

Just want to point-out that I edited my above post because I was running 12/47 sprockets with a 110-link chain.
Old age creeping in. ;)

The way it worked for me on my WR-250R, 12/45 just fit and allowed proper chain slack adjustment with the stock 108-link chain - the rear wheel axle was all the way forward to achieve this.
I get the feeling that 13/45 might actually fit on the bike with the 108-link chain, but not have any adjustment left at the rear axle to get proper chain slack.

Good info. Thanks.

I had a thought. It might be good to have two setups available.

14-45 or 47 .... Slightly taller gearing than stock for hiway
13-45 or 47 .... Slightly lower gearing than stock for off pavement

Looks like the 110 link chain might fit both the above using a 45t rear??

On my KLR when I do a multiday adventure ride (which means a long hiway ride to get there and back) I carry a 16t front for hiway and a 14t sprocket for off pavement. Stock is 15t. It is pretty easy to swap out.

mordicai wrote:

Sarah, you running a 108 or a 110 link chain with that 13x45 combo?

110

Sarah

Thanks

I ran a 13/47 and 14/47 before with a 112L and a 13/46 or 14/46 now with a 110L. Go with the 112L chain if you're running a larger than stock tire for the little extra tire clearance you get, my mudflap has a nice hole in the center from rubbing on my trials tire.

I've noted that I have to replace the front sprocket about twice as often as the rear sprocket, regardless of tooth count. One nice thing about the gearing on this bike is that the popular ratios (what I'm running above) still gives you a good highway speed along with good control off road. No sprocket swaps necessary.

skierd wrote:

I ran a 13/47 and 14/47 before with a 112L and a 13/46 or 14/46 now with a 110L. Go with the 112L chain if you're running a larger than stock tire for the little extra tire clearance you get, my mudflap has a nice hole in the center from rubbing on my trials tire.

I've noted that I have to replace the front sprocket about twice as often as the rear sprocket, regardless of tooth count. One nice thing about the gearing on this bike is that the popular ratios (what I'm running above) still gives you a good highway speed along with good control off road. No sprocket swaps necessary.

Thanks for the info. Looks like the following conbos are about right:

110L chain, 13/45 and 14/45

112L chain, 13/47 and 14/47

Nice to have choices!

skierd wrote:

I ran a 13/47 and 14/47 before with a 112L and a 13/46 or 14/46 now with a 110L. Go with the 112L chain if you're running a larger than stock tire for the little extra tire clearance you get, my mudflap has a nice hole in the center from rubbing on my trials tire.

I've noted that I have to replace the front sprocket about twice as often as the rear sprocket, regardless of tooth count. One nice thing about the gearing on this bike is that the popular ratios (what I'm running above) still gives you a good highway speed along with good control off road. No sprocket swaps necessary.

Dude [Skierd] - which combo did you prefer 47 or 46 (112 vs 110links? As a general question, can you fit and remove the 14T front sprockets easily and without having to split chains - is there enough clearance? I wasn't keen on the 14T idea for my RTW trip but I found myself in the US and couldn't resist a case saver.