hand fatigue and levers

I am experiencing serious pain in the last joint of both middle fingers.
I have small hands and reaching for the levers seems to be creating a problem.
When I grab for the levers, it is my longest finger that grabs and pulls it in, so my full grip can form.
Sometimes it's just the bad finger working.
My fingers have been abused over the years and I will include these issues in workout/re-hab.

I assume general maintenance of levers and cables are in order for best mechanics...any tips would be welcome...

Is there anything else someone would like to add...maybe better maintenance, parts, or rehab?

Any help would be appreciated.

it might help if you can find a clutch lever that can be adjustable to support long, medium, or smaller hand reach, like the ASV C6 (Im not sure if it works on the WR), and adjust it so you have more leverage when starting to pull the clutch lever in. I use one on my YZ and was able to adjust the lever to where I can use one finger (index) without fatique. If your having to reach and start to pull from the tips of your fingers, it will put more strain on your hand. So, if the reach can be adjusted, say moving it inward, then you will have more leverage from the start and not so hard on your hands. I have a works connection lever on my WR and I need two fingers. I am on the lookout for a new clutch lever for my WR.

I dunno about yours, but on mine the actual clutch operation happens in a very narrow range at the very start of pulling it in. Anyone know if it would work if he just added a goos bit of slack to it so the operating range happens within his reach? Then maybe put a weak thin rubber band around it to keep the play out of the lever. After the clutch is disengaged and not dragging, is the rest of that range of movement doing anything?

Mucker.... You may have "Age".

...or you could have been "Flipping the bird" a little too hard throughout the years. You could have arthritis in your heredity.

I've broken both wrists twice and every finger attached to them as well as having worked with hand tools most of my life.

I swear by my adjustable ASV levers, and a smooth operating cable is great to have all the timebut it's not going to take the place of conjointin and glucosamine.

It has got so painful, at times it hurts just to twist off a bottle top.

i will 2nd the glucosamine. my brother has had ongoing joint issue for the last 20yrs (couldnt run or put any more than walking pressure on his right leg since he was 5) and at time popping glucosamine like jelly beans was the only thing that kept him walking. with rehab, anything that will build grip strength will help. if its too bad, you might need cortisone injections to manage it.

mod wise, look for something like the asv levers with reach adj and/or leverage adj. and the venhill featherlight cables seem to get good reports for easy of action. getting extreme you could look towards having a hydraulic clutch assembly fitted, then you'd get reach adj and easier action is just a larger master cylinder away.

Thanks folks.
My brothers old sheppard, eventually was put down for bad hips...before that, glucosamine, definitely made life better for him. I saw a big difference.
I should consider some, I'll do some homework.
Those levers sound great. I'll see if I can locate some localy. Is it just the levers I need to buy, or is there more involved?
I guess I'll flush some silcone spray thru the clutch cable and lube the pivots...I'm sure they need it.

...thanks again.

i like motul ez lube, seems to work good. don't like the yamalube cable lube. gets very gooey and can make them worse.

My hot start cable on my dirt bike was locked-up solid ( it never gets used) so I took the entire cable off, put it in a zip-lock with lightweight oil (5 wt), let it sit for a week and then hung it up to drain out.

Works great...

In the past I also have undone the lever end, turned a zip-lock inside out, pushed the cable through the corner of the baggie, tapped or zip-tied the baggie around the cable, put light oil in it, close it and suspended it upward (using bungie cord or paint stir-stick) and let the oil migrate using gravity down into the cable.

You can tell it is "Cooked" when the oil is coming out of the other end. Sounds funky, but it works.

This technique might not work well where it freezes. WD would probably work as well as oil. Maybe better for water immersed equipment.