breaking in a new wr250x

I just bought a brand new (09) left over from a dealer last month. Great bike so far, and I have already put a FMF Powercore 4 slip on, on it.

My question is for all you other WRX riders, I have a programmer and am really wondering if I should just go for the airbox,AIS, and programmer now or wait til she is broken in?

About 200 miles on it since last month (she had 1 when I rolled her in my truck from the dealer).

Also, just curious on the the opinions of how to break her in?
Some people say ride it like you stole it, others say baby it??

The manufacturer has the greatest interest in you properly breaking the bike in as doing so will reduce warranty claims. Follow their instructions as best you can and change the oil frequently during break in. I usually use the cheap stuff for that.

I would go ahead and do the programmer as the motor needs it to prevent running lean. Especially if you pop the airbox door off. AIS is no big deal and can wait though. The only down side to having it on is the occasional backfire.

You will not get a consensus here on most of your questions.

Personally, I'd hold off on mods until bike is "broken in".

My break in philosophy is to not let bike sit on any one rpm for very long. Use entire rev range. Don't lug engine. (that's never a good idea any way). Don't be afraid to rip through gears.
Have fun. Get through 400-600 miles or so.

Change oil.

Forget about being concerned with "break in".

If hes already got the pipe installed though, might as well richen it up to nice safe levels with the programmer.

oic0 wrote:

If hes already got the pipe installed though, might as well richen it up to nice safe levels with the programmer.

If the front end is still corked up, opening up the back end won't cause a huge issue with being "too lean".

Again - the whole "lean scare" regarding the wr250x/r is potentially more talk than reality. I've never once heard of an X or R owner having catastrophic failure due to overly lean conditions.

Most typically don't want to be the first, and I for one prefer to error on the safe side.

The OP can make his own decisions. Just adding a slip on exhaust won't put him in the danger zone for being "too lean".

you guys suggest to hold off on the airbox door, and programmer then till after 600miles??

What about the AIS (since the backfires have shown up already)?

I would also hold off on mods, but the programmer isn't really necessary anyways. Mines been fine for nearly 10k miles. If anything the bike is rich stock.

I would change the oil now and ride the piss out of it for the next 400-500time miles, change oil and filter, then ride like normal changing oil every 2000-3000few miles or till the shifting gets notchy. Mines got 30k on+ it with that break in and no issues.

I personally would hold off on mods for a few thousand miles, till the bike really breaks in and loosens up at 2-3000 miles.

What kind of warranty do you have from Yamaha?

Doing shit like removing stuff that effects air intake, air to fuel ratio, and exhaust might be voiding huge parts of the Yamaha warranty. Might. I have no idea really.

motokid wrote:

What kind of warranty do you have from Yamaha?

Doing shit like removing stuff that effects air intake, air to fuel ratio, and exhaust might be voiding huge parts of the Yamaha warranty. Might. I have no idea really.

Factory yamaha warranty is 1 year

So the concensus is to wait until the breakin period is over before doing a programmer and airbox mod??

I find it difficult to believe that a slip on would void anything since Yamaha has the GYTR slip on for it?

I'm not wanting to do anything that is not reversable anyway....

Beat the piss out of it.

/break in

What motokid said about not keeping at constant rpm's and change the oil often.

I raced mine with about 200 miles on it - and all mods done.

Its fine. I'm fairly certain exhaust, programmer, etc etc will NOT void warranty but you can always switch it back to stock when you take it in just to be safe.

Call your dealer - its their call anyway. I used to work at a honda shop and our techs could give 2 sh!ts about stuff like that.

oic0 wrote:

The manufacturer has the greatest interest in you properly breaking the bike in as doing so will reduce warranty claims. Follow their instructions as best you can and change the oil frequently during break in. I usually use the cheap stuff for that.

I would go ahead and do the programmer as the motor needs it to prevent running lean. Especially if you pop the airbox door off. AIS is no big deal and can wait though. The only down side to having it on is the occasional backfire.

Their interest lies in selling parts for rediculous prices. I'm of the opinion that breaking it in as per the manual only accelerates your need for parts.
Here's a link: www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

motokid wrote:

You will not get a consensus here on most of your questions.

Personally, I'd hold off on mods until bike is "broken in".

My break in philosophy is to not let bike sit on any one rpm for very long. Use entire rev range. Don't lug engine. (that's never a good idea any way). Don't be afraid to rip through gears.
Have fun. Get through 400-600 miles or so.

Change oil.

Forget about being concerned with "break in".

Constant variation of RPM's goes right along with the method described in the link above. I concur. I also agree on the frequent oil changes early in the engines life.

Ride it like you stole it.

Break in procedure is a bit controversial, IMO the only reason the motorman style is so popular is because it doesn't involve waiting before you can play with the new toy. I do follow the run it hard method for a rebuild where I just do the top end, but I prefer to let transmissions and bottom ends wear in gently. The fact that neither completely contradictory method usually runs in to any problems though probably means it really doesn't matter as much as we think it does.

Motoman - all the way.

Dump the first oil at 50 miles tops.

Three heat cycles and let-er-rip.

Heat cycles are bogus.

Getting to operating temp. before giving it hell is still prudent.

pbnut wrote:

Heat cycles are bogus.

Getting to operating temp. before giving it hell is still prudent.

Heat cycles are supposed to seat in the rings a bit to work out tight hot spots. All the racy type mechanics I've known have gone by it. Makes sense to me but as my wife would tell you, I have been wrong.

Just Bob wrote:

Heat cycles are supposed to seat in the rings a bit to work out tight hot spots. All the racy type mechanics I've known have gone by it. Makes sense to me but as my wife would tell you, I have been wrong.

The way I understood Motoman, compression seats the rings against the wall. The cylinder is washed in oil. Rings are lubed by the oil. Tight rings would be an indication of incorrect ring gap, in which case the motor will have a very short life anyway.