13/47 chain length?

I'm staying with the 13T and ordered a set of wheels with a 47T rear.
What's the stock chain length ? 110? Will that suffice or should I get a new 112?

Is it a 520 or what?

I have an X.

I have 13/48 set up. 112 links.

Stock if I recall was 108. You can always just go count them to be sure. Don't know if R's have same length or not.

Stock chain also has the size stamped on each link. 520 is stock as well I think. Go look when you get a chance.

I can't tell you if 110 is a better fit for 13/47 - but if you order 112 you can always cut off a link or two if that's more to your liking.

I run 13/47 gearing and the 112 link chain is perfect; plenty of room for adjustment. The added length also means the axle rides further back in the swingarm slot. The added wheelbase helps out when riding off-road.

got the 112 coming
good point about the wheelbase!
hadn't thought of that.

andysrage wrote:

...The added wheelbase helps out when riding off-road.

Would like an explanation, please. Aren't most dirt bikes short wheel based to maneuver tight spots better?

...not sure what the formula is in the modern world, but back in the desert racing days alot of us length our swingarms a couple inches for stability.
Motocross bikes these days may tend towards a shorter overall length due to the character of MX track work.
That's just a guess on my part...

The WR250R has a short wheelbase, 55.9" and is a bit nervous offroad. Here in NJ where we ride alot of sand you can notice the rear never likes staying inline with the front. Another example, ride it thru a set of whoops and the rear end prompty starts swapping sides if your rear rebound damping is set even slighty too fast. Everyone would agree that the WR250F is a superior offroad machine that is more agile yet it has a longer, 58.3" wheelbase. The YZ250F is also longer at 58.1". As we all know, a longer wheelbase adds stability but there are other benefits to a Longer swingarms.
First it that a longer arm results in the rear wheel travel becomes more vertical versus heavily arched. This improve suspension action and traction.
Second, the longer arm reduces the influence that drive torque has on suspension resulting in more natural suspension action. The lower the ratio between the rear sprocket radius and swingarm length, the less the torque effect.

All that said, I love my WRR for off road. It is absolutely incredible off-road for a fully street legal bike that isn't orange. Spares me issues with the rangers and doesn't need constant servicing.

I am also thinking of getting a 47 tooth rear sprocket and keeping the stock 13 tooth... You should post a a review of your first impressions once you get it installed and get it out on the road!

andysrage wrote:

... the rear end prompty starts swapping sides if your rear rebound damping is set even slighty too fast. ...

We rode this weekend 180+ miles about half of it desert and rock buttes. The 13/47 worked great. 75-85mp on the tarmac with any sign of strain, using Michelin T63s.
Offroad the bike is everything I hoped it would be. Handle everything with aplomb that I threw at it (in accordance with my riding skills, I'm old but I'm not slow!).

On whoops I back off. My pal mentioned something about the rebound when we were done.
He halls through that stuff.
Not sure which it was. turn it all the way OFF or all the way ON for whoop riding.

Maybe you can help me there Andy...

Make your rear rebound damping harder by turning the adjuster on the bottom of the shock counterclockwise (as viewed from above. For starters, try 2 clicks firmer than stock.
Jusy be mindful that dialling in too much rebond damping will make our suspension pack in stutter bumps.