bought an X a while back, and i have a few newbie questions

hi all,
my name's brenden. i'm from wisconsin. purchased a 2010 wr250x in early july (i'll get pictures up after the graphics come from magiksc :)). it's bone stock other than a powercore 4 exhaust w/ airbox door removed and a smaller sprocket up front (think it's just one tooth smaller). grew up riding dirtbikes, lost interest in my teens, hoping the same won't happen here in my 20's.

that being said, i have a few questions.

-i see a lot of stuff about modding the airbox on these things. i've read thread upon thread about it, but i just need something cleared up once and for all.. i have my airbox door removed, but i'm also interested in the flapper mod. can i do the flapper mod and leave my airbox door off or will it run too lean with that much air? could i maybe just drill a hole in the airbox behind the flapper and achieve something similar? i have no interest in doing anything to the air temperature sensor (5k resistor or what have you) and i also do not own a programmer, but everyone on this forum seems to swear right handed on those things so i'll probably get around to it shortly..

-also interested in a larger rear sprocket to give this thing some more torque. my question is, if i go up to a 46 or 48, will it be noticeable? i'd really like this thing to lift itself up...

-my last question is, what else can i do relatively cheaply and efficiently to make my X produce (not that it hasn't but i want moarrrrrr)? i have plans for this bike that will go into action over the winter, but what can i do now to give it some more snort without beating up my wallet too much (and by too much i mean sub-$500USD)?

thanks in advance to anyone willing to help this cheesehead out

btw, these emoticons are the shit! hahaha

Welcome. My bike was tuned with the flapper closed and the door open. I alter removed the flapper and it made very little difference. I would order up a programmer asap if you are running an exhaust and open door on the airbox.

IMO you will notice a difference going up 4-6 teeth out back. I did.

Spend your money on a programer. Right now, it will be the best bang for the buck with your current setup.

Enjoy your new bike!

chuckP wrote:

Welcome. My bike was tuned with the flapper closed and the door open. I alter removed the flapper and it made very little difference. I would order up a programmer asap if you are running an exhaust and open door on the airbox.

IMO you will notice a difference going up 4-6 teeth out back. I did.

Spend your money on a programer. Right now, it will be the best bang for the buck with your current setup.

Enjoy your new bike!

good to know, then i will definitely be keeping 'er closed.

how many teeth did you go up to? did it help alleviate some of the 'dive' you get when you're coasting (no throttle applied) in a lower gear without the clutch pulled in? stock chain? can you still hit, say, 80mph?

...any programmer suggestions?

my apologies for the game of 20 questions..

My bike came with a 48t in the rear. Stock is 13/42 I'm pretty sure it could do 80mph, but at that speed you are really revving it out. I went back to the stock gearing because i do ride the hwy occasionally and i prefer to have the revs lower when I do. But I also have the 290cc kit as well as some other mods, so the bike still has enough power with stock gearing for what i do with it.

Are you referring to the front end dive when letting off the throttle? If so, gearing really didnt make much of a difference with that. I had a problem with my front end diving when getting on the brakes. I'm 200lbs btw. Adding 20ml of ATF to my front forks made all the difference in the world.

I have the Power commander 5. I don't have anything bad to say about it. Check out the pipe/programmer subforum here and see what everyone has to say. If i'm not mistaken, most of these guys are running PC3 or PC5 programmers. But i would definitely make that your next mod considering your setup.

Ask all the questions you want bro, i was once in your shoes, i know how it is.

If you have removed the airbox door completely there's no need or advantage to doing anything else to the airbox.

You really probably should have an EFI programmer.

Gearing changes make a big difference. gearing changes also throw off your speedometer more than it's already off.
Might need to buy a speedoDrD type corrector depending on the gearing you chose.

Don't kid yourself into thinking you'll be able to power-wheelie this bike.

Unless you add a turbo or something drastic like that.

chuckP wrote:

My bike came with a 48t in the rear. Stock is 13/42 I'm pretty sure it could do 80mph, but at that speed you are really revving it out. I went back to the stock gearing because i do ride the hwy occasionally and i prefer to have the revs lower when I do.

i also ride the freeway and 'round here everyone drives about 75mph instead of the posted 65 so thats why i asked. i'll probably go with a 46 or something a bit smaller so i'll still have a little more top end.

chuckP wrote:

Are you referring to the front end dive when letting off the throttle? If so, gearing really didnt make much of a difference with that. I had a problem with my front end diving when getting on the brakes. I'm 200lbs btw. Adding 20ml of ATF to my front forks made all the difference in the world.

yep that's what i was talking about. atf like.. tranny fluid? hahaha alright whatever works i guess!

chuckP wrote:

I have the Power commander 5. I don't have anything bad to say about it. Check out the pipe/programmer subforum here and see what everyone has to say. If i'm not mistaken, most of these guys are running PC3 or PC5 programmers. But i would definitely make that your next mod considering your setup.

will do! thank you again for taking the time to answer my questions.

motokid wrote:

If you have removed the airbox door completely there's no need or advantage to doing anything else to the airbox.

thank you, that's the answer i needed haha.

motokid wrote:

You really probably should have an EFI programmer.

yep, i most likely will here soonish.

motokid wrote:

Gearing changes make a big difference. gearing changes also throw off your speedometer more than it's already off.
Might need to buy a speedoDrD type corrector depending on the gearing you chose.

Don't kid yourself into thinking you'll be able to power-wheelie this bike.

Unless you add a turbo or something drastic like that.

yep, i'm aware gearing changes throw off the speedometer. is 12 o'clock labs reputable? or should i be looking at another brand.. or a speedohealer?
i already can power wheelie it by bouncing the seat.. hahaha but yep, this winter i plan on getting a turbo or a big bore kit after switching the header out and getting a programmer and all of that other stuff.

thanks for the response!

I have 13/48 and the bike tops out at a corrected 85-ish mph.

12 o'clocklabs corrector is what I have and it's a great part.

brendo wrote:

i already can power wheelie it by bouncing the seat..

In what gear(s)?

Video?

motokid wrote:

brendo wrote:

i already can power wheelie it by bouncing the seat..

In what gear(s)?

Video?

1st or 2nd only :\ and that's not shifting through or going a long distance. lol i'm sorry i didn't mean to make it sound like some incredible wheelie, it's definitely not. still need to work on my clutch-ups yet on this bike, it's just too much fun in the corners to even care almost. it's actually quite the yank if you try to get it anywhere over a foot and a half off the ground but it can be done. i'm also 6'2'' 150 lbs soaking wet so that might have something to do with it as well.

i don't want to post a weak ass video.. ........... maybe once i get the wheelies down.. and the track i'm in the process of building finished! shouldn't be much longer but the lack of rain isn't helping us up here.

[quote="brendo"][quote="motokid"]

brendo wrote:

it's actually quite the yank if you try to get it anywhere over a foot and a half off the ground but it can be done. i'm also 6'2'' 150 lbs soaking wet so that might have something to do with it as well.

I thought that too and then I loaned my WRR (all stock gearing) to my friend and very close to your size and right before he got back to house he cranked a huge wheely almost to the balance point and rode it for awhile. I wish I had my camera on me. But evidence would have just made me feel even worse about my inferior wheely skills LOL.

[quote="Coop"][quote="brendo"]

motokid wrote:

brendo wrote:

it's actually quite the yank if you try to get it anywhere over a foot and a half off the ground but it can be done. i'm also 6'2'' 150 lbs soaking wet so that might have something to do with it as well.

I thought that too and then I loaned my WRR (all stock gearing) to my friend and very close to your size and right before he got back to house he cranked a huge wheely almost to the balance point and rode it for awhile. I wish I had my camera on me. But evidence would have just made me feel even worse about my inferior wheely skills LOL.

Important question Coop: Did your friend power wheelie your bike, or clutch wheelie your bike?

Well when the OP said "it's actually quite the yank if you try to get it anywhere over a foot and a half off..." I assumed he meant clutch wheely because you shouldn't be pulling at all to power wheely, the acceleration alone lifts the front end. So my bud did a clutch wheely for sure.

brendo wrote:

i already can power wheelie it by bouncing the seat..

Coop wrote:

Well when the OP said "it's actually quite the yank if you try to get it anywhere over a foot and a half off..." I assumed he meant clutch wheely because you shouldn't be pulling at all to power wheely, the acceleration alone lifts the front end. So my bud did a clutch wheely for sure.

brendo wrote:

yep that's what i was talking about. atf like.. tranny fluid? hahaha alright whatever works i guess!

Auto trans fluid! Yeah I didnt have any fork fluid. I've used ATF in the past. 1Tablespoon =15ML I Put 15ML in each fork leg. Huge difference. Added a little more the other day and it's just about perfect. This winter I willl flush it and put in some decent fluid. I've heard that alone makes a noticable difference over the stock fluid. Just make sure the bike is on the stand if you deceide to add any. Takes all of 2 minutes to add it through the bleeder holes. Have fun with it.

motokid wrote:

If you read his whole reply he goes from talking about power wheelies to talking about clutching. After he mentions clutching is when he talked about yanking to get 1.5 ft. That's what I was commenting on.

so here's a couple of shitty pictures, i have some graphics (just shrouds) coming very soon so i decided to shed the stock ones today.





so as far as what i want to do with it goes.. i'd like to get a new header, tailight/blinker kit, handguards, larger rear sprocket, programmer.. then if that's not enough either a big bore kit or a turbo.. maybe both if a couple grand falls in my lap.. somehow.. really want to make this thing my own. wish they'd make a decent looking headlight for these things, none of them really trip my trigger.

brendo wrote:

Is 12 o'clock labs reputable? or should i be looking at another brand.. or a speedohealer?

I bought his DRC Edge II programable tail light a few months ago - great product. He's also a member on here "12oclocker" I think. A number of guys (and gals) on here have purchased his Speedo corrector and I havnt heard of anyone having issues with it.
His website is www.12oclocklabs.com

Here's a video of his programable tail light kit