Mods, Mods, and more Mods!

So while getting everything ready for spring riding to begin I took the chance to do some of the mods I've been wanting to do to the bike.

1.) Chopped Front Fender

2.) 44 Tooth Renthal Rear Sprocket

3.) New Renthal Chain

4.) LED Turn Signals (Tusk Signals)

5.) 12 O'Clock Labs Speedo Corrector

6.) 12 O'Clock Labs LED Running Lights Adapter

7.) Modded Stock Brake/Plate Light and Location

8.) 150/60/17 Pilot Power

Here's some pics, I couldn't be happier with the results. Oh and 12 O'Clock Labs GREAT PRODUCT! Easy install, High quality parts, Fast shipping!

Front Fender Post Cut:



Front Signals:



Front Signals w/ Running Lights:



New Rear Tire (plenty of room for chain with the 150/60/17) & New Light Setup:



New Rear Turn Signals, and Re-worked brake light and plate light using stock lights:



Another view:



How it sits as of now:

More details on the brake/plate light setup.... Looks good!

Bambo , I did almost the same thing but a little diff. WRXsmv15 did a nice job, but if you ride dirt, you prob want it back a little further like mine. I dont want to step on this guys toes so I wont post pics here and instead I will make my own thread on the WHALE TAIL MOD. Im thinking any off roading would cake his with mud.

bambo wrote:

More details on the brake/plate light setup.... Looks good!

I don't have any other pictures and I'm 2 1/2 hours away from bike right now so I'll describe the best I can.

Remove seat and rear fender.

The light is mounted using the stock metal bracket and is bolted to a cross member in the sub frame with about a 1/4 spacer. (It's actually the bar where the screws for the seat go through, to give you an idea). If I were to redo it, I would also add about a 1/2 spacer to where the light screws into the mounting bracket because getting the seat bolts on/off is a tight job now. (Since I had everything off the bike I didn't catch this until the end and still might end up doing it.)

You will need to cut both the plate and brake light wires, route them inside the frame and then reconnect them.

The plate is mounted using two 1/2 strips of aluminum which goes from the screw holes in the back of the brake light and are then bent at an angle you like.

The plate light is mounted onto a plate of aluminum angle which is bent to match the strips which hold the plate.

Here the arrows point to where the aluminum is for the plate light bracket and how it's bolted to the plate bracket.



Red indicates the two brackets which hold the plate and plate light. The green indicates the angle which holds the plate light.



If you're worried about it being seen by cars, don't, as you can tell the light is still highly visible from behind and the new turn signals are way brighter than the old ones.



I agree with mcdoublehopper about the placement for offroad riding, this is mainly a street/ dirt road bike and doesn't trails that often so I'm not concerned by it; but if you are going to be getting in the mud alot then I would move it further the rear of the bike.

Hope this helps some!

I'll probably do something like that without the turn signals (not required in TX) since its brighter than the edge. Im thinking about trying out the Pilot Power when my Shinko 006 wears out (from mostly commuting), post up a review when you get some miles on it.

bambo wrote:

I'll probably do something like that without the turn signals (not required in TX) since its brighter than the edge. Im thinking about trying out the Pilot Power when my Shinko 006 wears out (from mostly commuting), post up a review when you get some miles on it.

Will do!