A few questions from a potential WR250R buyer

Hey- I'm thinking about replacing my Kawi KLR650 and Honda XR250R with one bike. Yep, the WR250R. I've considered other bikes that are a bit more high zoot - like the KTM 350 and Husky TE310r - but I keep coming back to the WRR because of versatility, reliability, ease of maintenance, and purchase price.

Yet, I do have a few concerns because I would prefer not to do too many mods to the WRR. Bear in mind that I am mostly looking for good trail manners on tight, tight, tight, technical single track. For example, I don't want to stall at inopportune times, or not make steep climbs. Also, bear in mind that I am not looking for race performance. If I could get down the trail as well as I do on my XR250R, that would be stellar.

Here are my questions:

1) Why do folks get rid of EXUP? It provides torque at low rpms by creating back pressure, right? Seems like a good idea to me. Do I need to remove it to make the bike single track worthy? Or is it just nice to do? I'd like to keep the stock exhaust if possible.

2) Am I going to HAVE to remove the air injection system (AIS)? Does it affect trail-worthiness? I'd like to keep the stock exhaust if possible.

3) Is a programmer essential? Can I benefit from a programmer if I leave the bike stock? What is the consensus on best route to go? If needed, should I go the FMF power programmer route, or do I need to step it up to the dynojet powercomander with autotune. Is there any point if I don't replace the exhaust?

4) Is the fuel injection open loop in the USA? Seems that way since there is not an oxygen sensor. If so, how does the ECU account for altitude and temperature changes? Is this done by the mass air flow (MAF) and intake air temperature sensors (IAT), assuming it has them?

5) If I do go the full dynojet power commander/autotune/new exhaust route, does the ECU operate in closed loop mode? Does it switch to open loop when get on the throttle?

As you can see, I am partly informed, and we all know the problem with that. I'm sure it would all become clear if I get the bike. But I want to be as informed as possible before making a purchase decision.

Thanks and cheers!

1) Why do folks get rid of EXUP?
Mainly, it's because it's a part of the stock muffler, and if you want one of the popular aftermarket mufflers, removing the stock muffler automatically means removing the EXUP along with it.
You can keep the bike 100% stock and trailride to your heart's content if you want, but, it trailrides better with some basic and logical mods.
 
 
2) Am I going to HAVE to remove the air injection system (AIS)?
Nosirree.
 
3) Is a programmer essential?
Only if you want improved throttle response provided by the programmer.
On the WR-250R I owned, I rode the bike back-to-back both with and without the FMF programmer.
Much better with it (thank the EPA).
FMF is very popular, if not in fact the most popular.
 
I'm not certain on questions 4 and 5.
 
In my opinion, if you want an XR-250R-esque WR-250R that's mostly stock, I would:
 
Gear the bike down with a 48-50 tooth rear sprocket.
Add the FMF programmer.
Set rear suspension sag to your weight.
Add a skid plate, mainly to ward-off stones sent airborne by the front tire.
Trail ride.

Thanks YZetc!!! Good advice. Sounds like a plan.

just get on it and ride it and enjoy forget all the mods and you must do this do that it comes from japan in good shape if you can touch the floor when your sat on it then your ok life's to short to mess

Sounds like your going to use the bike similar to how I use mine.
I also got the WRR to replace a KLR650 and a gasgas250.

Heres my 2 cents...

1 The exup works backwarads to what most people think, it closes at high rpm to make the bike quieter for some sound test it needs to pass, it has nothing to do with boosting hp.
If you keep the stock pipe just leave it alone as it doesnt hurt hp.

2 The AIS should be left alone if you keep the stock pipe, it helps keep the cat clean.
If you install a aftermarket pipe the bike will back fire with the AIS intact.

3 A programmer will give better throttle response with a stock pipe, not much else.
Weather or not its worthwhile is totally up to you, to me its not.

4 Its open loop with MAP and IAT like you thaught to adjust for temp and elvation.

5 I have no idea and dont worry about that stuff untill I need to now about it, I have the fmf piggy back programmer with a pipe and opened up airbox.

Since your riding single track gear the bike way down, its geared crazy tall for a offroad 250 stock. Go to 12-48 o 13-50.
With stock gearing you could pull away from a xr250 in 4th while the xr is topped out lol.
The bike climbs snotty dificult hills quite well, I have a easier time on them then alot of the guys I race againts on race bikes.

I replaced a KTM 640ADV and Gasgas EC300 with the WRR and also a WeeStrom.  The KTM was just too buzzy for the highway.  In fact the WRR is, in my opinion, a better street bike than the KTM 640 up to 55-60 mph.  

The WRR is not in the same league as the Gasgas on the trails.  The weight difference is huge, like 60 lb.  But beyond the weight, the suspension geometry and damping is much better on the Gasgas.  I would take the Gasgas on ANY trail, including ones where the bike had to be carried part of the way.  The WRR rides trails like a ... dualsport.  It just doesn't steer as accurately, and medium size bumps will deflect the front tire.  The suspension could be fixed but not the geometry or the weight.

My WRR engine isn't modified.  I have 13/48 sprockets and MT43 tires front and rear.  The suspension is adjusted but not modified.  

It is still a touch high geared for trails, so I do need to slip the clutch to get over logs etc.  The clutch feel sucks swamp slime.  The Gasgas had a hydraulic clutch that must have come from a trials bike, it was so easy to control.  The WRR has OK low end torque, probably more than the XR250, but since it is so hard to modulate it isn't as useful.  The first few times I rode it I stalled it every time, and I've been riding dirt bikes for over 40 years.  People spend hundreds of $$ to upgrade the FI but from what I'm reading here, it still doesn't have perfect control at low speeds.


I had an XR400 for 10 years and AFAIK it had the same geometry as the OP's XR250.  These 2 bikes have excellent geometry for trails.  Just point and go.  The OP will have to look really hard to find a better bike for trails than the XR250R, especially if cost is a factor.

So to answer the OP's question, from my standpoint the WRR would not be as enjoyable to ride gnarly single track as the XR250R, no matter what mods are made.  It probably would be a good replacement for the KLR on the street (below 60 mph).  It would definitely be better than the KLR for gravel roads, dirt roads, and trails.  One thing I haven't tried on the WRR is loading it with luggage, but it should hold +/-70% as much as the KLR.

I am currently strongly considering a 3rd bike, something like a KTM 250xcfw or if I win the lottery a 350exc/xcfw, to ride trails.  I really miss the precise handling, light weight, and great suspension of a purpose-built trail bike.

DHALLY wrote:

I really miss the precise handling, light weight, and great suspension of a purpose-built trail bike.

New to the dirt here, so forgive me if this sounds like a dumb question: If one is getting those benefits from a purpose built trail bike, what is one sacrificing?

Lord Hornka wrote:

DHALLY wrote:

I really miss the precise handling, light weight, and great suspension of a purpose-built trail bike.

New to the dirt here, so forgive me if this sounds like a dumb question:  If one is getting those benefits from a purpose built trail bike, what is one sacrificing?

Dual sport bikes have to sacrifice handling, weight and power per cc to be street (EPA) legal.

DragonNester wrote:

Lord Hornka wrote:

New to the dirt here, so forgive me if this sounds like a dumb question:  If one is getting those benefits from a purpose built trail bike, what is one sacrificing?

Dual sport bikes have to sacrifice handling, weight and power per cc to be street (EPA) legal.

I fear you misunderstood my question: What are you sacrificing when you go with a purpose built trail bike?

^^ Fear NOT my friend, for the DragonNester is close to 100% correct on that answer !

  Cheers.

Lord Hornka wrote:

DragonNester wrote:

Lord Hornka wrote:

New to the dirt here, so forgive me if this sounds like a dumb question:  If one is getting those benefits from a purpose built trail bike, what is one sacrificing?

Dual sport bikes have to sacrifice handling, weight and power per cc to be street (EPA) legal.

I fear you misunderstood my question:  What are you sacrificing when you go with a purpose built trail bike?  

On the trail? nothing really except reliability (some of the weight savings are in the motor).
On the road? stability, reliability, comfort (less buzzy at high speed), and ability to add accessories to the heavier frame.

Its going to scoot down trails as well or better than the relatively ancient XR250R. Its going to travel as easy the KLR650.

Keep the stock exhaust. The aftermarket exhausts are great at making noise and helping top end power, particularly on the highway, but the performance difference on trails is negligible. Loud pipes lose land. I do love how well mine runs on the highway with the FMF PowerCore4 and Powerbomb header, but again there is 0 difference in my opinion on trails except the noise.

The difference between stock and a programmer is about the same difference as an old spark plug and a fresh spark plug. Noticeable, but not huge. There is no point if you don't replace the exhaust. Seriously, save your money or invest it in your suspension. The Powercommander is the route to go if you go with an Athena or Thumper Racing big bore. You can turn it into a closed loop system with the autotune system they offer, which I would do with a big bore.

Just go buy the yam it will make your kawasaki feel like a bus & your xr breathless & dull..you will not find a better do it all trail bike than the wr.. 

Hey all... I've just bought a 2014 Wrr and reading this post the consensus is to gear down... I plan on getting a bigger rear sprocket, a 48 or 50....will I lose much chain adjustment or do I even need a longer chain?

New chain. I believe I am using 112 links with my 49 tooth/13 front.  I had a 47 tooth on it first with the 112 but the wheel was farther back than what I wanted.  110 would be better with the 47/13 combo.

chr1s wrote:

Hey all... I've just bought a 2014 Wrr and reading this post the consensus is to gear down... I plan on getting a bigger rear sprocket, a 48 or 50....will I lose much chain adjustment or do I even need a longer chain?

The stock chains a 108 link 520V... I added 6 links to it to fit a 50 tooth rear sprocket, the wheel is almost all the way back tho, 4 links would work too.

Ask a local dealer if they have 4 links of 520V chain you can have then get 2 master links to install it.

You can also fit a 12 tooth front with the stock chain.... most people do this as its easier and run it untill it wears out then get 13-48/50.

Thanks folks...think i'll drop to a 12 on the front then...i'll just keep an eye on the chain slider..

I have a 2013 WR with 6,000 miles so far, Bone Stock besides a Seat Concepts seat & 3gallon tank. I ride a lot of tight single track is SoCal & it loves lugging around in 2nd gear! Keep your chain a little on the loose side

Biglake wrote:

chr1s wrote:

Hey all... I've just bought a 2014 Wrr and reading this post the consensus is to gear down... I plan on getting a bigger rear sprocket, a 48 or 50....will I lose much chain adjustment or do I even need a longer chain?

The stock chains a 108 link 520V... I added 6 links to it to fit a 50 tooth rear sprocket, the wheel is almost all the way back tho, 4 links would work too.

Ask a local dealer if they have 4 links of 520V chain you can have then get 2 master links to install it.

You can also fit a 12 tooth front with the stock chain.... most people do this as its easier and run it untill it wears out then get 13-48/50.  

So I've decided to run a 48 on the rear ( stock front)... Do I need 4 extra links plus 2 master links so I'll end up with 114 links?

chr1s wrote:

Biglake wrote:

chr1s wrote:

Hey all... I've just bought a 2014 Wrr and reading this post the consensus is to gear down... I plan on getting a bigger rear sprocket, a 48 or 50....will I lose much chain adjustment or do I even need a longer chain?

The stock chains a 108 link 520V... I added 6 links to it to fit a 50 tooth rear sprocket, the wheel is almost all the way back tho, 4 links would work too.

Ask a local dealer if they have 4 links of 520V chain you can have then get 2 master links to install it.

You can also fit a 12 tooth front with the stock chain.... most people do this as its easier and run it untill it wears out then get 13-48/50.  

So I've decided to run a 48 on the rear ( stock front)... Do I need 4 extra links plus 2 master links so I'll end up with 114 links?

I've got the 13/48 combo and use a 112 link. 114 would be too long for that combo IMHO.

For a 48 add 4 links total... 2 masters and 3 links in between em, you lose one link when you cut it off this gives you 112 links total.

Make sure you get DID 520V chain or chain that matches up to it perfectly, it has a smaller pin diamiter than all the other DID O/X ring chains.

Thanks offroute and biglake.... Parts on order, looking forward to this mod.