SERVO SUB / RESISTORS EXTENED.

Alright folks, I have read the whole thread on the resistors instead of the servo sub from graves. Now the question I have is, when this worked for you was your bike already throwing code 17? if so, did you need to do anything to clear the code PRIOR to putting the resistors in? my bike doesnt except this method and the light stays on with the code 17.  specific resistor i am using says 10k-Ohm 1/4 watt-5% tolerance. from what i understand another person on the other thread used these and it worked. PLEASE HELP THIS DUMMY FIX THE DEVIL LIGHT!!  

OKAY. also made this video to make it as simple as possible to see what i have going on here.
https://youtu.be/EHQFzzqj2Nk

You still need to clear the code, do you have the servo still? You can plug it in to clear it and then do the mod.

That is if you did everything correct with the resistor.

I dont have it anymore.... i dont think..... crap

Everything I've read about this says you absolutely HAVE to clear the code first.

To the OP, are you saying that the code won't clear at all ? - or that it comes back on again in a short period of time ?

I'm proberly not in a position to make real comment, as i've just dropped the coin on the "proper" graves unit - but surely if the "cheap trick resistor" fools the ECU into believing that the servo is still in place, then in theory you should be able to fit the resistor & then use DIAG mode to clear the code ? ( Assume all else is good in resistor type & fittment )

As  mentioned above by MK, everything that i've read also says that you need the OME servo to clear code, but i'd still want to try it myself anyway.

In any case it won't hurt to just try this 1st, as until you can track down another servo you're sort of stuck anyway. Also if the code won't clear with the resistor fitted, then it may be worth disconnecting the battery and ECU for an extended period, such as a 1 hour min. Again this is easy to try.

Almost a year after fitting the graves exup eliminator to my bike i've had no problems, and relative to the cost of other mods it was a reasonable spend for the "set & forget" propersition.

Cheers.

OK, just had a look at the OP's youtube link, i can now see that no attempt has been made to clear the existing code via DIAG mode. So this being the case i have found and supplied below info from the TT Forum on how to access the relevent modes via your bikes digital display. So you will need to try this as per these below steps..... let us know how you go.



ThumperTalk → Dirt Bike → Make / Model Specific → Yamaha → Yamaha Dual-Sport .


WR250R/X Diagnostics
Started by Steveakus , 05 Jul 2008 09:44 AM


If you need to check your history codes, or anything on your bike here is the OBD.

Key off
Kill Switch off (sometimes needs to be on for certain tests)
Hold Select 1 and Reset both at the same time,,,,,keep holding
Turn on Key, keep holding the other two buttons until DIAG displayes
Now hold down Select 1 and Reset again for about 2 more seconds until the display changes top #'s = your diagnostic mode #
bottom #'s = value of mode or # display

now use Select 1 or select 2 until your top # is 61 (history code display)

The codes will be displayed at the bottom, and repeating so you can write them down.

Now if you want to erase them press Select 1 to go to 62 and turn kill switch on. Now there gone for good..............

GT-250 wrote:

WR250R/X Diagnostics
Started by Steveakus , 05 Jul 2008 09:44 AM


If you need to check your history codes, or anything on your bike here is the OBD.

Key off
Kill Switch off (sometimes needs to be on for certain tests)
Hold Select 1 and Reset both at the same time,,,,,keep holding
Turn on Key, keep holding the other two buttons until DIAG displayes
Now hold down Select 1 and Reset again for about 2 more seconds until the display changes top #'s = your diagnostic mode #
bottom #'s = value of mode or # display

now use Select 1 or select 2 until your top # is 61 (history code display)

The codes will be displayed at the bottom, and repeating so you can write them down.

Now if you want to erase them press Select 1 to go to 62 and turn kill switch on. Now there gone for good..............

If that works, and please report back if it does....then I'd plead with GT-250 to go post this fabulous information in the "sticky" that displays the fault code chart so it's easy to reference when the next member posts with similar issues.

   

tried it, and something interesting happens. the light clears but only for about 1 or two seconds, then the fuel pump primes and the headlight turns on for about 1-2 seconds with the cel light on, and it does this back and forth until i turn off the key. when i turn the key off with the light OFF, then turn it back on the devil light comes back on with everything else!!!!!!!  

^^ Ok, so are you 100% sure that you're accessing and using function 61 to read the current fault codes, and that you are then accessing function 62 in conjunction with the red kill switch to clear the codes ?

I'll double check on my own bike in the morning to see what happens exactly when operating the mode in function 62, but from memory i don't think that the fuel pump or headlight operates when applying the code clearing function. Just to add that there are many different modes of function when in the DIAG mode, and quite a few do actually activate the fuel pump briefly when the red kill switch is turned on, but as i've just mentioned i don't think that the fuel pump operates in function 62. I will confirm on my own bike either way and report back.

So until i can give this confirmation i suppose that there could be several different reasons for you current situation. These could be anything from you having incorrectly "bridged" the wiring for the resistor, to just a simple case of you having not correctly accessed the DIAG mode for function 61~62. Also it may well be that all is good in regards to the resistor bridge / DIAG mode, but that as previously mentioned and suspected by others here that this code simply can not be cleared without plugging back in the OME exup unit.

We now just need to double check that all the basic's are properly covered. Please report back, and i will also let you know what i come up with.

Cheers.

GT-250 wrote:

Key off
Kill Switch off (sometimes needs to be on for certain tests)

The kill switch off is my guess for what went wrong.

I'll check mine in about 10 hours....but I don't think it's possible for headlight to turn on with the kill switch in off position...let alone have the fuel pump prime.


Just guessing from afar though..... 

Back again just to quickly add.........

I've just referenced my Yamaha Workshop Manual, and have seen that when in the DIAG mode, function 50 will operate the fuel pump for 5 cycles, whilst function 52 will operate the headlight 5 times. In both of these modes it also says that the Engine Check Light will flash on & off as these functions are in operation.

Further to this it makes no mention of any cycling of the fuel pump, headlight or CEL for the fault code function in mode 61~62. So again this seems to back up my memory for these modes, but as mentioned in my previous post i'll actually confirm this either way on my bike in the morning. This is why i'm asking the OP to just double check for the correct access and use of the DIAG mode functions.

Unfortunately due to copy write, and as a rule on this forum, i can't reproduce the direct info from the Manual on this. So i'll just try to pass on this info + reference my own bike as a test for confirmation.

Cheers.

Thanks GT250, I am pretty happy that someone is helping me out, ill try again and let you know what happens!

ALright, heres what i get. when i go into diag mode and then hit select1 and reset until i get d1:01 on top and 01 on bottom, i hit select 1 until it scrolls to d1:62 with kill switch off, then flip switch on and the fuel pump runs, constant priming sound until i shut of, upon trying to turn key on after that the code 17 still remains. any idea?

I am going to make another video today and I am going to do everything so i can just show you, this typing is driving me nuts
 

Ok, so i have now double checked on my bike today for the functions in DIAG mode.

First off i can confirm to televisedsnail that from your 2nd last post above that you are indeed now accessing the correct mode for function 62. I can also confirm that when in mode 62 my fuel pump will run constantly once the kill switch is turned on. ( NO headlight and NO CEL flashing on when in function 62 ). So we can now tick the box for this step of the process = all good.

So the next question i'll ask is what's happening exactly after you carry out function 62 ?

I realize that you are still having the CEL come back on and code 17 remaining after going back to normal ignition. But what i'm trying to confirm is the process during the DIAG mode of weather or not the code is actually even clearing during this initial process. ( I suppose this is where one of your video's would be good to save a thousand words, lol ).

What i would suggest is to go thru the complete process again, but this time go into the fault code reading mode first - which is function 61. Then note down the exact code/s as displayed. Then go to function 62, which i believe should show the number of stored code/s in the bottom display. This display will only remain to be shown whilst the kill switch is in the off position - so be sure that the kill switch is in the off position PRIOR to accessing function 62. In fact it's best to just keep the kill switch in the off position at all times when in the DIAG mode, and then only operate the switch when you need to carry out the relevant sensor tests or code clearing functions. I've seen in your above post that you are keeping the kill switch off during the initial process, so this is all good and continue to do so. ( Just wanted to be clear about this and on the same page here mate - as internet diagnosis / assistance is difficult at the best of times, lol ).

Anyway lets keep moving forward here.....So now after checking the displayed reading in mode 62, make a note of what number/s are shown. Now carry out the fault clearing mode of function 62 by turning on the kill switch. ( Fuel pump will run constantly here - which we know this is all ok & normal ). So if all has been successful then a "0" should be shown in the bottom screen display. Make a note of this, or of any other number/s that might remain to be shown. Now turn the kill switch back off. Double check to see if display reading remains the same. Ok, so now remain in the DIAG mode and go directly back into the fault code reading mode of function 61. Check what is being displayed here - hopefully it's all clear / "0". Make a note of what's being shown in this display.

So i'll ask you to report back please with the above findings at all the points where i have mentioned to make a note. ( If you want / prefer to do a video that's all good, but otherwise standard text post is fine. I'm hearing you on the  typing mate - i think i might need to progress to the video link as well, lol ).

Alright then - by following the above steps we can determine at this point if the fault code 17 is a "hard fault", which basically is the technical term for a DTC that can not be cleared at all due to a current & permanently existing fault with the relevant sensor, and/or associated wiring.

It would seem obvious that this is very likely to be the case with your situation, as the light and code are logging on first ignition cycle. But at this point it can't be taken as 100% until the steps taken in DIAG mode are noted & confirmed. We could definately call it a "hard fault" if the display of "0" is not shown directly after execution of function 62. ( If it is indeed a hard fault code that can't be cleared at all in mode 62, then this could indicate something such as a wiring fault, and/or the incorrect "bridging" of the resistor ).   The other very possible senario is that of the "common belief" that this exup code simply can not be cleared without the OME unit in place. I suppose that puts you right back at the start where you may well need to just get a hold of the exup unit to confirm both the code clearing & your resistor install. 

Anyway mate i'm sorry that i can't suggest too much more at this point - and it's proberly really not much further than where you're already at..... but at least it's easy and free to re-check. Also it will only take you about 1/2 the time as it took me to do this post, lol.

Cheers.

Just to add that this below link from Ebay AU is from a USA supplier for a exup unit - they are calling it a "smop pump" ? But from the pic it looks about right. Anyway i've still got my original exup unit in my storage shed, but obviously not worth the freight cost / time from me here OZ.

Might be worth placing a WTB add in the sales section, as there must be plenty of US members with their removed unit. Might be worth trading for some beer money.

Anyway below link to Ebay unit shows a pretty fair price for the unit - but if buying this in the States you wouldn't expect to get stung by his listed international postage price.


http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/09-WR250X-WR250-WR250R-smop-pump-NEW-6-/380433838641?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item58939fb231#ht_4715wt_864

Am I the only one who just pulls the cables out of the servo?

I just dont see a good reason to go through all this trouble to save 1 pound by removing it.

^^ 1 pound + easy access to remove the rear shock assembly,

But yes if i was not wanting to spend the coin on the exup eliminator, then personally i'd suggest that just leaving the original servo unit in place minus cables is possibly a better option than the cheap resistor.

I suppose the problem in this case is that the OP purchased the used bike with the exup servo already removed.

Biglake wrote:

Am I the only one who just pulls the cables out of the servo?

I just dont see a good reason to go through all this trouble to save 1 pound by removing it.

That's me too.  

Plus - when I remove a stock part, I NEVER throw it away. You never know when you might need or want it. Plus, if you ever sell the bike .....

OKAY, no video this time and im going to keep it short and sweet. Following the steps to clear code 17 as posted, the end result after a few tries is the same. the code stays. no big deal, rode 9000 miles with it on anyway. I will fix this as soon as i can make it over to the main land and meet up with a guy whos willing to let me use his servo motor to clear the code.