Big brake / supermoto brakes

Talk me out of it or point me in a different direction!

-I'm not looking to spend over $800
-I do not like the stock caliper 'pull' design
-I wouldn't mind keeping the stock rotor if there is a radial caliper kit for it


Here's what I'm looking at right now.
http://www.motostrano.com/brsubrkit.html

What exactly are you doing with your X that makes the stock system "not good enough" to the point of spending $800 on it?

Surely just getting a steel braided line would make the stock stuff work much better...but I can't understand the "need" for a complete overhaul and replacement of everything.

motokid wrote:

What exactly are you doing with your X that makes the stock system "not good enough" to the point of spending $800 on it?

Surely just getting a steel braided line would make the stock stuff work much better...but I can't understand the "need" for a complete overhaul and replacement of everything.

I've ordered the MPFab turbo kit so the bike will be making more power, not that this will ultimately call for stronger brakes.
I'm very hard on the brakes and I prefer a strong and consistent system, it does not need to be extravagant but on my R1 for example I only needed to upgrade the rotors, lines, and master cylinder to get the feeling I was looking for.

This bike will be tracked.

Ahh....well seeing as how the X was not designed to be a roadrace bike, like the R1, it's not surprising that you'd want/need to replace the whole kit-n-kaboodle.

Post pics of all your mods and race pics too.

motokid wrote:

Ahh....well seeing as how the X was not designed to be a roadrace bike, like the R1, it's not surprising that you'd want/need to replace the whole kit-n-kaboodle.

Post pics of all your mods and race pics too.

I have no pictures (yet) referencing the WRX since I just picked it up the other day BUT I've already started ordering some of the parts with the mpfab kit being one of them.

Might want to consider suspension upgrades, too. That kind of stopping power might tie the suspension up in knots. And will improve front end feel/feedback.

^^ +10

WRoldman wrote:

Might want to consider suspension upgrades, too. That kind of stopping power might tie the suspension up in knots. And will improve front end feel/feedback.

The suspension will definitely get some work when needed but I don't put much strain on the suspension right now being 135lbs.

Any recommendations for other brake kits I should consider?

I used a brake setup similar to that on my DR-Z400SM, and it was awesome.
If you've got the money, and you want better brakes, go with it. :)

If you've not used it, I can see why you wouldn't miss it.

YZEtc wrote:

I used a brake setup similar to that on my DR-Z400SM, and it was awesome.
If you've got the money, and you want better brakes, go with it. :)

If you've not used it, I can see why you wouldn't miss it.

Awesome, thanks for the recommendation. I'm fairly certain the 2-piece caliper will be more than enough for what I want but I didn't want to order it if people see negligible performance from it.
I'm not completely satisfied with the kits 13mm MC but I will give it the benefit of doubt and see how it feels.

Hopefully I order it next week and have it here when the turbo kit arrives.

IMO the stock rotor is pretty decent. I would try some more aggressive pads (HH race), some high quality fluid, and a stainless brake line first. You can always ditch the stock M/C for a brembo but you may lose the brake light. My biggest pet peeve is the crappy adjustment of the brake lever, all it does is adjust the engagement point, but the lever distance stays the same. I like my lever pretty close to the bar because I have smaller hands and like to cover the front with one finger.

twowheeled wrote:

IMO the stock rotor is pretty decent. I would try some more aggressive pads (HH race), some high quality fluid, and a stainless brake line first. You can always ditch the stock M/C for a brembo but you may lose the brake light. My biggest pet peeve is the crappy adjustment of the brake lever, all it does is adjust the engagement point, but the lever distance stays the same. I like my lever pretty close to the bar because I have smaller hands and like to cover the front with one finger.

I do not mind keeping the stock rotor if there are caliper kits that will still use it (does not seem like there are any) but I certainly do not want to stick with the stock caliper. I understand that a line, pads, and better fluid will certainly make for slightly better performance; honestly, if it wasn't a pull type then I'd be completely fine with it but the initial feeling of a pull type caliper is not a preference to me.
The brake switch is easily remedied with a Brembo MC, if you use a standard 16xXX, 19xXX, etc then you can either buy a pressure switch that reads fluid pressure or you can buy the aftermarket button switch kits. The Brembo RCS models all come with a button switch (I ran the 19RCS on my R1).

I do appreciate the feedback but I suppose I was hoping to hear from more folks that had purchased a larger brake kit, I suppose it's not a big surprise that few have simply because the WRX doesn't naturally need it. I should be able to get some feedback on SMJ although it will likely come from DRZ and other dual sports rather the WRX.

Thanks again.

Don't take this the wrong way...but if you're that serious about racing this bike, real hard, why would you pick this bike to race?

I would love to get my X on a tight road course, but to seriously race it just seems there's too much to have to alter to get it in serious race worthy trim.

Plus, there's no real good class to race it in is there?

If you turbo the thing you'll be in a GP kind of category where I'd think you'd get crushed.

I'd love to hear more about what your plans are.

My intentions are taking the bike to the track for SM track days, I have no desire to participate in races.

The bike is going to serve as my street bike and will see the majority of its action on the street.

The first track day planned right now is next weekend at BeaveRun.

The reason for the 250 is weight, size, fuel injection, and being road legal.

I ordered some better pads and I'll flush the fluid with ATE Blue as well (I won't be changing the line and I know that's where most feel the most difference), I'll run this setup at the first track day to see how it works with the stock engine (no turbo).

Can you provide link to pads you ordered?

Are you planning on running stock tires?

Also, not sure if it was here or at SMJ, but somebody who raced the wr250x had issues with cooling.

Make sure you get some pictures.

I ordered EBC carbon pads, not the race or sintered. I do not expect them to have a lot of repeated bite given their material but I also do not expect to be on the brakes all that much for this particular track.

Heat is definitely going to be an issue with the stock caliper and the stock line, even with good fluid.

I'll be taking plenty of pictures once the rain has stopped.

I meant pictures from the track...but any X pictures are good ones.

And along with the spongy, over-heating brake concerns with the stock stuff...there was cooling issues with the motor.

I was wondering if the stock mud-flap of a fender was an issue. Let me check...that thread might be here.

Bingo: here it is

Interesting stuff. I may or may not see the same engine heat issues that he did since I'll be running Engine Ice and the temps should be in the mid to high 70's. I wouldn't be surprised at all if the plastic radiator guard is impeding airflow. If this turns in to an issue I'll definitely pick up an aftermarket rad guard to see if that helps.
Also, the ATE brake fluid has a much higher boiling temp then the stock stuff so that could also help or at least require an extra lap or so (in comparison) before it boils.

I forgot to mention it in the last post but the tires I'll be running will be Bridgestone BT016.