Installed a new chain w/ masterlink...Im having doubts.

I just installed new chain/sprocket/and slider this winter on my bike. I got a cheap Chinese 520 chain that came with a rivet link and after doing some reading I'm a little nervous. I'm running the stock case saver and cover. Are masterlinks reliable? What case saver options are their out there?

I won't run a conventional clip type master link, I only use the rivet links.
I also won't run a "cheap" chain. I buy D.I.D. bulk packs generally in 120 length & cut to length.  Ebay prices are usually only about $79 shipped & they hold up very well. Regina & RK both have very good reputations as well.
No failures for me ever on 70 plus HP dirt bikes.

Actually after looking back at the purchase it was an RK non oring 520 chain. Still came with a master link though. Do the rivet links need a special tool?

Is a non Oring chain safe for use on a dual sport bike? Should I scrap the thing and go with a $80 o ring chain?

#1) What do you mean "are master links reliable"?

Of course they are. Many people, including people who race use master links all the time.

#2) Clip type master links work fine. They are directional though. So be aware of how to install clip if that's what you have.

#3) Case saver????? Yeah - look up "Sandman Case Saver" in the search function here.

#4) A non o-ring chain is fine. Requires more maintenance, but provides more power due to less friction. You can safely use it, you'll just need to stay on top of lubrication and slack adjustment more than if you had an o-ring or x-ring chain.

#5) Yes - if you have a rivet type master link, you'll need a tool to install properly. They're fairly cheap and easy to find.

Most drive chains you can buy come with either a clip-type or rivet-type master link, and some come with both.

Some OEM drive chains (like some original equipment Honda or Yamaha parts) come as you seem to have expected your drive chain to be:
When you take it out of the package, it is already connected together, and every link looks the same - riveted together with a big multi-ton press at the chain factory.
In other words, every pin end literally gets squashed/flattened by force without the benefit of having a hollow-point at the end of the pin, and that's because the chain is assembled with big equipment, not a hand-held riveting tool.

My experience with drive chains:

On the typical dirt bike, clip-type master links are most common, especially on motocross bikes.
Why?
It's assumed you won't be riding it hundreds of miles cross-country any time soon.
It's also assumed you'll be eyeballing your bike frequently for wear and damage.

These days, practically all street-legal bikes come with O- or X-ring chains as original equipment, and all of the Japanese ones I know of are riveted together.

I use rivet-type master links on my bikes these days, and have since I got into sport bikes 20 years ago - seeing or hearing about the results of a clip-type master link coming apart ain't fun, and it is possible.

As stated, the non-O-ring chain will work, but you will have to brush the dirt off it and lubricate it after, practically speaking, every ride, especially if the ride was in the dirt and/or wet.
If you don't, the chain will wear quickly (it will seem to be often getting too loose), start to rust and the links will kink (not straighten-out).
Continuing to use a kinked chain will make it break.


The short version:
I use O- and X-ring chains with a rivet master link for longevity and best reliability.

Skithis wrote:

I just installed new chain/sprocket/and slider this winter on my bike.  I got a cheap Chinese 520 chain that came with a rivet link and after doing some reading I'm a little nervous.  I'm running the stock case saver and cover.  Are masterlinks reliable?  What case saver options are their out there?

As has been said already master links are fine.  make sure you install it correctly and carry and extra link should you lose yours on the trail.

+1 for Sandman case saver.

non O/X-Ring chains do need more maintenance and likely won't last as long if you do a lot of dirt riding as it's impossible to keep a dirt chain lubricated.

I would encourage you to buy an o or x ring chain next time.  Rivet type chains are better but do require a tool.  I have the RK tool and it works well.  Many tools (the RK included) also double as a chain breaker and have a press for installing master link type both of which make chain work that much simpler.

good luck,

-morgan

I ride in some very rocky terrain, when I assembled the R2 I used a clip type master temporarily until I was sure on the chain length & gearing. Washing the bike a couple of weeks ago I found this



And yes the clip had been installed in the correct direction for over 1200 miles prior to this ride.

Always makes me wonder if the clip type master link stories you hear about are 99% urban legend. I'm just going to run the non oring chain until its shot and then probably switch to these new fangled o ring chains. But then again, I may just put another non oring on it. I like to spray it off with some wd and keep riding and for $30 a chain I can replace them every year.

I used a lot of chains over the years with clip style master links and lost one clip but it was my fault as I reused a master link and your never supose to do that lol.

I've since started glueing the clips into place, I picked this tip up of some other bike forum, I forget which tho lol.

I clean the side of the master link with brake cleaner then cover the inside portion and edges of the clip with automotive goop or shoe goo this holds the clip on very well but it still can be removed if you scrape it off with a screw driver, nothings going to hit it on the trail and knock it off lol.

The clip on my chain is at 5k miles now on "Little Blue". I do carry spare clips in my bag . . . just in case.

"Big Blue" (highly modded FZ1) sports a riveted chain.

You can also safety wire the master link if you want to, or use RTV silicone or similar. This is required for some racing/track day orgs.

I ran rivet links on my SV650. I actually fabricated a rivet flare tool because I was too cheap to pay for the expensive ones.

4play wrote:

I ride in some very rocky terrain, when I assembled the R2 I used a clip type master temporarily until I was sure on the chain length & gearing. Washing the bike a couple of weeks ago I found this



And yes the clip had been installed in the correct direction for over 1200 miles prior to this ride.

I had the same thing happen with my BMW 650 Dakar.
After riding 3k plus miles I noticed my master clip was missing.
I have no idea how long I rode that way. Most of the 3k miles were on a road trip (70-75 mph cruising)

Kind of shook me up, I had never had that happen in over 30 years of riding.
It is now something I check just about every time I ride.

I've had that happen on one of my sport bikes (YZF-750RF, I think), and is why I switched to rivet master links.