DO NOT jump your bike and let it charge its self

I've done it several times (5 or 6). I have a bad habbit of jumping off of it like I do my other dirt bikes without taking the key out.

Just found out the hard way that letting it operate at low voltage can sometimes cause the speedometer calculation formula to be lost and it goes to some default crap that is around 250% too high. I'm not the only one, there is a thread elsewhere in which several people have had the same problem. I just drove home at 189 the whole way (the highest it will go in MPH mode). Ordered a speedo corrector thingy to correct that, hope nothing else in the memory was erased. Seems to run perfect otherwise.


What I don't get is why. Its ROM right? Read only memory that can be flashed but is not written to during operation. What the crap is the bike doing that could cause that bit of memory to be lost. Sounds like poor programming. Probably done by the same guy that purposefully made our speedos 7.7% higher than our odometers.

Yamaha really REALLY REALLY fucked us over with their speedo/instrument cluster contraption.

If mine ever went south I'd do anything and everything in my power to NOT have to buy a direct Yamaha replacement.

Let us know if the "fix" you're pursuing works.

Do you mean that you are getting off the bike and leaving the key in the "On" position letting the battery discharge itself? Would you do that with your car? You're lucky it started at all...

Evol wrote:

Do you mean that you are getting off the bike and leaving the key in the "On" position letting the battery discharge itself? Would you do that with your car? You're lucky it started at all...

It didnt start and I'm ok with that. Its the permanently messed up speedometer that's getting me.
Same thing can happen though if your battery gets old, you let it sit too long, your stator or rectifier quits (my stator has, just replaced one of those, woulda made more sense if it woulda happened then!).

take it apart and lets see the circuit board. maybe there is a eprom or something we can re-program. I have a chipmax device programmer.
we could read the eproms information on a good one and reprogram the bad one.

wankle wrote:

take it apart and lets see the circuit board. maybe there is a eprom or something we can re-program. I have a chipmax device programmer.
we could read the eproms information on a good one and reprogram the bad one.

Thank you for the offer but I ordered a speedometer corrector circuit capable of large enough ratio changes to correct the formula. You could probably make some money if you could reprogram these things though. Aside from them crapping out like this, a lot of people would probably like to have a correct speedometer and odometer at the same time. Heck if you could figure out some way to display speed and the tachometer at the same time, that would be awesome lol.

Yeah, it seems kinda odd that the one bike you actually could use a tach on doesn't have one. Compound this with a digital - boo- guage cluster.... I wish bike companies had mid cycle refreshes like cars; clear up some of the bs that isn't apparent until enough users have put miles on the machine.

the wrf speedo will do it too. a new battery in the bike should fix it. had a 2nd hand one on the floor do it to me... turned on and starts racking up km @ 199kph, stopped it pretty quick. new battery and all was well.

if it is the same issue, a speedo correction device wont help.

I had a somewhat similar issue.  My odometer went back to "0"...

So I lost bragging rights on having high mileage on my bike, but other than that no issues other than the inaccurate speedometer which I resolved many moons ago with a speedo healer. What's kind of interesting is how much speedo error checked via GPS can change from zeroed with a fresh new tire to reading error when the tire is getting towards the end of it's useful life.

Speaking only for myself, I have absolutely no use for a tach on this bike, so I really don't care whether it has one or not.  It has a rev limiter at the one end, it lugs on the other end, and my ass-o-meter by now tells me when the bike is in its comfort zone.  It just isn't the kind of bike where I'm constantly trying to stay at max efficiency/power revs.

Jäger wrote:

Speaking only for myself, I have absolutely no use for a tach on this bike, so I really don't care whether it has one or not.  It has a rev limiter at the one end, it lugs on the other end, and my ass-o-meter by now tells me when the bike is in its comfort zone.  It just isn't the kind of bike where I'm constantly trying to stay at max efficiency/power revs.

Hold on to your hat there my friend, but I could not agree with you more.

I never ever look at my instrument cluster unless I'm concerned about speeding tickets.

What rpm I'm turning seems like useless knowledge.

I can easily feel where I am.