Wr250rx lowering

Hey guys, I have a converted r to x and want to lower it. I was gonna buy a lowering link and step seat but figured i'll try the shock an forks first.

I've read thru many of the threads on how to but still loss. Most of the threads just show a pic of the rear shock but still not understanding what to do.

Also when lowering the front and back with stock adjustments, is there a certain limit I should lower it?

TIA

Takes about 15 minutes: http://www.wrrdualsport.com/tech-guide/suspension/115-lowering-r2

You want to spin the lower shock block/clevis up and stop just before the lock/jam nut touches the rebound dial.

There is no 1:1 ratio of front vs rear lowering because changes to the front affect geometry & handling at a different rate than changes to the rear.

YamaLink wrote:

Takes about 15 minutes: http://www.wrrdualsport.com/tech-guide/suspension/115-lowering-r2

You want to spin the lower shock block/clevis up and stop just before the lock/jam nut touches the rebound dial.

There is no 1:1 ratio of front vs rear lowering because changes to the front affect geometry & handling at a different rate than changes to the rear.

Thanks for the reply! I read that tutorial before I made this post. Just don't know what shock block/clevis, lock jam and rebound dial mean. lol

Just curious, but if the bike wasn't too tall for you as an R, why lower it just because you've taken the knobbies off and put sportbike tires on?

motokid wrote:

Just curious, but if the bike wasn't too tall for you as an R, why lower it just because you've taken the knobbies off and put sportbike tires on?

I never rode it as an R, only in supermoto trim.

oops....nevermind....  

Step seats look cool, but I would check out seatconcepts lower seat option. It doesn't force you to sit way forward.

Shock block aka clevis = big piece of metal you turn UP.

Jam nut = the big lock nut that keeps the shock block tight.

Rebound dial = black knob that spins. It controls the speed of rear suspension extension to full travel.

250wrx wrote:

Thanks for the reply! I read that tutorial before I made this post.  Just don't know what shock block/clevis, lock jam and rebound dial mean. lol

I just completed the stock lowering and adding the Yamalink but one question I have is that the Yamalink instructions says to be sure and adjust the chain after lowering. My chain is a little tighter now and about 6-8 mm of distance using the manual which is on the tight side. Since the bike only has 300 miles or so I figure chain will still loosen a little. Does anyone know how critical this is if chain is on the tight side? Just cruising gravel roads for now.

When using the Yamalink, depending on your weight, you need a stiffer spring. The Yamalink really changes the rising rate of the shock and can bottom easily depending how aggressive you are. I set up two bikes for a recent trip with stiffer springs, both 15% stiffer, and at about 210 lbs, both of us experienced bottoming. Onoe ridden by an A enduro rider and one slo poke, me.