Big Bore Kit, Original Pipe?

Hi, I am looking into getting a big bore kit, but if I was to get the kit, I wouldn't quite have enough money at the start to get a pipe system. so anyways, my question is would the stock pipe work with a big bore kit or would it be best to get an aftermarket pipe?

The exhaust is restrictive on a stock displacement R2, so your gains with a BB would not be fully realized without an update. The stock head pipe has actually dyno'd better than the Mega or Powerbomb's, a better flowing muffler is all you need.

What tuner are you planning to use?

4play wrote:

The exhaust is restrictive on a stock displacement R2, so your gains with a BB would not be fully realized without an update. The stock head pipe has actually dyno'd better than the Mega or Powerbomb's, a better flowing muffler is all you need.

What tuner are you planning to use?

I would most likely buy a 290 Athena BB, that seems to be the most popular. I had heard rumors of a 310 BB but nothing much more, what BB do you have on your WRR that produced a 306?

There is no 310 kit. You get 306cc's from an Athena 290 size cylinder & a Hotrods 3mm stroker crank.

Mine has a custom Thumper racing 3 ring piston in a used/replated Athena cylinder & Thumper balanced the stroker crank to match.

I recommend the Thumper 280 kit, the piston is significantly lighter than the Athena & does not affect the balance much at all. It also uses a three ring piston & should live longer than the Athena two ring setup. Power is comparable.
It's also cheaper which might allow you to get a decent tuner like a PC III instead of the one size fits all tuner that comes with the Athena kit.

would the PC III be better than the fmf fuel programmer?

Many people are happy with the FMF type programers, the PC type have more tuning points and the ability to add and take away fuel. You do need a laptop to tune one, vs the FMF is done on the bike

4play wrote:

Many people are happy with the FMF type programers, the PC type have more tuning points and the ability to add and take away fuel. You do need a laptop to tune one, vs the FMF is done on the bike

The problem I had with the FMF is the color coding of the lights. I am Orange/Green color blind and could never tell what mode the unit was in unless my daughter was there telling me... even then she had a tough time figuring it out.

The other thing is there seems to be different base calibrations of the FMF program that require different settings so it was not as easy as copying someone's setting if they were running a unit with a different calibration.

Whatever way you go you should have a dynoshop set the tuner for you unless you bought the AutoTune packager with the PowerCommander. It would really suck to screw up a new motor because your seat of the pants dyno wasn't calibrated.