WR taco in diagnostic mode?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lGBLPdIt9xQ&feature=related

And you can get engine RPM's out of it

Is there a way to make the tach display stay up when you exit diagnostic mode?

That's nice, but you can't leave it like that. What he is actually doing is adjusting the CO Mode for emissions. I am still a bit sketchy on what all the CO Mode does, but it is my understanding that CO levels can be adjusted for different regions (ie California). I had a guy send me a pic of his stock CO mode setting from a Cali bike and it was way different than my stock setting here in Florida. His was set at 8 and mine was at zero (the number you see in the video below the RPM numbers). Notice how in the video he is changing the lower number with pushes of the button. I think he is just adjusting the CO levels on that bike. What I didn't know is that you get the tach reading while you are doing the adjustment. The service manual gives no info on the CO Mode except for a small blurb on page 8-51. I'm sure the factory guys get inside info on how to adjust this mode properly, but I have not been able to find that info...... yet.

I believe the CO mode adjustment must change something in the ECU that effects the EXUP operation and the AIS operation to control emissions levels. But that is just my own theory.

Nice to know the meter has the capability of showing a tach reading. Now i am going to have to check it out and see how close it is to my own tach. Too bad Yamaha won't let us have that on the screen full time. I would much rather see the tach on the top line instead of the stupid clock!

But the clock is handy for knowing when I have to leave the trail and head to work. :)

Stop using those four letter words here! You know, the one that starts with W and ends with K?

YZEtc wrote:

But the clock is handy for knowing when I have to leave the trail and head to work. :)

You could wear a watch.

You couldn't wear a tach. Well, you could, but really only Easy E could pull that off, and he's dead.

CO mode is the rough equivilent of the fuel air screw
You can adjust it to run so rich or lean it will stall at idle but it has very little effect over 1/8 throttle

If you look at the connector for the lean angle sensor you will find a spare black wire in the connector, just ground it to the battery and you can access CO

0007onWR wrote:

CO mode is the rough equivilent of the fuel air screw
You can adjust it to run so rich or lean it will stall at idle but it has very little effect over 1/8 throttle

If you look at the connector for the lean angle sensor you will find a spare black wire in the connector, just ground it to the battery and you can access CO

From any of my carb'd bikes that were running lean after exhaust or airbox mods, opening up the fuel screws helped with the popping on decel and made the bike start quicker when cold. When my X was stone stock, a quick jab on the magic button and the bike started up. Ever since I did the standard intake / exhaust mods with a PC3 and various maps, the bike still starts every time but takes a revolution or two more before she fires up. I wonder if messing with this CO might get my quick starts back.......

Ya that's what it was meant for, nice thing is you just put it in CO mode and ride it, stop and adjust and ride again

0007onWR wrote:

CO mode is the rough equivilent of the fuel air screw
You can adjust it to run so rich or lean it will stall at idle but it has very little effect over 1/8 throttle

If you look at the connector for the lean angle sensor you will find a spare black wire in the connector, just ground it to the battery and you can access CO

yep...found the extra black wire,made a short jumper and ground to one of the tank bolts...was able to access the CO mode with no problem. the number that mine is set at is -7.
i tried going in both directions up and down in the numbers but really couldn't tell any huge difference in throttle response or idle speed. i went as far as +30 up and -30 down,then returned it back to the -7 setting. it did seem to rev slightly better with a setting of -10 vs +10 though....maybe...lol....hard to tell.
so......which way is richer/leaner? larger numbers leaner and lower numbers richer? or is it vice versa to that? i figured i would be able to tell this just by adjusting it up or down,but i'm not sure. and of course it's raining here...so i'm not able to ride it to test the different settings...maybe tomorrow.
more information needed please


also,my lean angle sensor is not very sensetive....it does work but you have to jiggle it around some even at a 90 degree angle to normal before it cuts the engine.

Should have mentioned that
- numbers are leaner + richens it
I think they are matched to other components so not every bike is the same
You need to go 10 - 15 to notice it without an EGA and the effect may not be apparent if the bike is not at full operating temp
Try it at +5 and just leave it there for a few days then try it at +15, a finger in the tailpipe tells you stuff, black and sooty is rich, clean it before you ride
dont worry about disconecting the ground, you can leave it permanent

I dont know about the lean sensor, There must be some sort of time delay but i would suspect 90 degrees and no motion would shut it off after 10 seconds or so, but then again

0007onWR wrote:

Should have mentioned that
- numbers are leaner + richens it
I think they are matched to other components so not every bike is the same
You need to go 10 - 15 to notice it without an EGA and the effect may not be apparent if the bike is not at full operating temp
Try it at +5 and just leave it there for a few days then try it at +15, a finger in the tailpipe tells you stuff, black and sooty is rich, clean it before you ride
dont worry about disconecting the ground, you can leave it permanent

I dont know about the lean sensor, There must be some sort of time delay but i would suspect 90 degrees and no motion would shut it off after 10 seconds or so, but then again

thanks for the quick reply....

i've always been able to get a slight "rich" looking dust smudge out of the end of the pipe. i mean just only very slight....and it has always had a rich smelling idle too. but,it's always ran very good....so i know it's not way off on it's setting. so + numbers are richer.
i was really only wanting to satisfy my curiosity about it and to see what mine was set at and as always to see if it could be tuned any better than it was already.
i only used the ground to get into the CO mode then re-installed the lean angle sensor so it would crank. i did not have to turn the key off for a re-set on the lean angle sensor....like in a crash/fall ....it will start right up while in the CO mode after reconnecting it.
it did seem to make a more noticeable rich odor when i had it at +30,but after trying several different numbers i got to where i really couldn't tell much from one to another.
i'm sure i'll be able to tell more of a real difference once i get to ride it.

on the lean angle deal.....i've dropped mine 3 times....it only cut off on the first time i dropped it,the other two times it just kept running. i've seen somewhere before a cut away detail of that sensor/switch....it's not anything high tech and it's really worthless if it doesn't work most of the time. i'm thinking it could get stuck in the off position just as it gets stuck in the normal run position.

maybe if anyone else bothers to check their setting,i would like to know what other bikes are set at.

You can leave the ground wire connected full time and leave the lean sensor connected full time. If you look close you will notice the black wire in the lean sensor plug doesn't even mate with a connector inside the lean sensor. Leave the other wires connected to the lean sensor and leave the black wire connected to ground. Everything will work fine whether is CO mode or not.

mwakey wrote:

You can leave the ground wire connected full time and leave the lean sensor connected full time. If you look close you will notice the black wire in the lean sensor plug doesn't even mate with a connector inside the lean sensor. Leave the other wires connected to the lean sensor and leave the black wire connected to ground. Everything will work fine whether is CO mode or not.

yes....i understand about the extra black wire. i'm guessing they put it in the lean angle connector as a way to hide it to keep people from adjusting it in CO mode....similar to the brass cap plugs on the 4 stroke bike carb's that you have to remove in order to get to the air/fuel screw.
i tried somewhat to just pull that wire free from the connector but it is really in there so i just made up a quick jumper to get it to ground to access CO mode.i'll try again to pull it free or just cut it loose.....either way i'll make it into a full time grounded connection.

Don't yank the wire out. There is a little locking tab inside the plug for each wire. Get a tiny pick and lift up on the tab and the black wire will slide right out with the connector on it.

mwakey wrote:

Don't yank the wire out. There is a little locking tab inside the plug for each wire. Get a tiny pick and lift up on the tab and the black wire will slide right out with the connector on it.

thanks...i'll look for that tab. it's been a dreary and rainy day here so i haven't been back out to do anything with the bike today.

ok...gonna rate this tip on this thread as a honest,real and useful tip.
i went ahead and made a jumper that i routed to the ground terminal of the battery per 0007's instructions. glad i did this as i also found both of my battery terminals as being only finger tight.

after a brief test ride this evening of several different numbers in CO mode,my new number is gonna be +3...stock mine was -7. i started out from a lower number of -10 to just see if i could feel anything different on the first test run....it caused a stumble off idle and stalled the motor.....i went ahead and tried it set like this anyways and it just felt flat and not as responsive. next i went up to 0,my idle seemed to be slightly higher and the bike ran as usual and without any real noticeable difference in performance or anything.
next i tried it back at the original setting (-7) and i noticed that it ran the same but my idle rpm was slightly lower than at 0. so i now know that + numbers are the way i need to go for at least a better quality idle if nothing else. i then went ahead and jumped up to +10,i don't think i even test rode it with that setting as my idle speed fell off again.
so this time i went with +2.....idle definitely better,engine making clean and confident sounding thumps at idle...throttle response nice and crisp.rode it for several miles at this setting and feel that it does make the bottom and mid range more responsive. at the point i decided to turn back for home i thought i'd try +3 for the ride back...idle still solid and slightly higher than my stock -7 setting and still feeling overall more responsive.
so i'm gonna leave it at +3 and ride it awhile and get some offroad too before i move the number anymore.

it was also useful for me to see where the rpm's are at during normal street riding too.
6k rpm's in 6th gear is moving along pretty good for the 2 lane roads out of my nieghborhood...lol.

i did notice one other thing too...while in CO mode there is no mileage clocked while your testing it.
if for nothing else this ability to fine tune it can be helpful for the seasonal changes.

dirtytrixx400 wrote:

ok...gonna rate this tip on this thread as a honest,real and useful tip.
i went ahead and made a jumper that i routed to the ground terminal of the battery per 0007's instructions. glad i did this as i also found both of my battery terminals as being only finger tight.

after a brief test ride this evening of several different numbers in CO mode,my new number is gonna be +3...stock mine was -7. i started out from a lower number of -10 to just see if i could feel anything different on the first test run....it caused a stumble off idle and stalled the motor.....i went ahead and tried it set like this anyways and it just felt flat and not as responsive. next i went up to 0,my idle seemed to be slightly higher and the bike ran as usual and without any real noticeable difference in performance or anything.
next i tried it back at the original setting (-7) and i noticed that it ran the same but my idle rpm was slightly lower than at 0. so i now know that + numbers are the way i need to go for at least a better quality idle if nothing else. i then went ahead and jumped up to +10,i don't think i even test rode it with that setting as my idle speed fell off again.
so this time i went with +2.....idle definitely better,engine making clean and confident sounding thumps at idle...throttle response nice and crisp.rode it for several miles at this setting and feel that it does make the bottom and mid range more responsive. at the point i decided to turn back for home i thought i'd try +3 for the ride back...idle still solid and slightly higher than my stock -7 setting and still feeling overall more responsive.
so i'm gonna leave it at +3 and ride it awhile and get some offroad too before i move the number anymore.

it was also useful for me to see where the rpm's are at during normal street riding too.
6k rpm's in 6th gear is moving along pretty good for the 2 lane roads out of my nieghborhood...lol.

i did notice one other thing too...while in CO mode there is no mileage clocked while your testing it.
if for nothing else this ability to fine tune it can be helpful for the seasonal changes.

Can you state what mods (if any) you have done to the bike? Or is it totally stock?

i've removed the AIS,the airbox flapper and installed a k&n air filter(heavily oiled) and a 12t c/s sprocket....stock 43 rear.
i've also switched the tires over to full knobby type tires....mentioning this as it does help make you keep your speed in check on the road riding.

i'm really happily surprised that this adjustment makes a real difference. i'm thinking that this extra responsive feeling will help to get the front end up even easier to clear mud holes etc. offroad.

another thought about this too is that when i bought this bike it was at the first of march and the weather was still very cool....it would stall on take off pretty easily and actually caused me to drop it 2 of the 3 times it has been down. this stalling went away as the weather warmed up and it hasn't done it again thru summer. i bet had i known to do this when it was still cold it would have cured that stalling issue.

mwakey wrote:

Don't yank the wire out. There is a little locking tab inside the plug for each wire. Get a tiny pick and lift up on the tab and the black wire will slide right out with the connector on it.

i was able to remove it with a pick as you said....lol....i had to get a pair of the wife's reading glasses to see it to do it though.

That's interesting as I would think the CO mode would be affecting the system through the operation of the AIS (and maybe the EXUP). If you have the AIS blocked off I wonder what the changes you made are actually affecting? Something in the ECU and injection timing maybe?

Have you noticed any changes in how fast the bike starts with the CO settings changes ?

mwakey wrote:

That's interesting as I would think the CO mode would be affecting the system through the operation of the AIS (and maybe the EXUP). If you have the AIS blocked off I wonder what the changes you made are actually affecting? Something in the ECU and injection timing maybe?

that's a good question.....it must change the injector's pulse. i don't know how it could make it any richer or leaner from changing the number settings any other way.

just to be clear on what i noticed....it only gave me a slightly higher and very stable idle...but with my original number it seemed to idle ok/good....not noticeable till you get it even better.
it also made my off idle/take off very crisp.....i could tell it pulled up to the mid-range quicker going thru the gears. wide open throttle unchanged...it felt as it always had.
my idle rpm with the original -7 was 1410-1430...new number of +3 is 1480-1490 and sounds very even and strong. blipping the throttle is very crisp.

Chrispy1200 wrote:

Have you noticed any changes in how fast the bike starts with the CO settings changes ?

i actually thought about you talking about that as i was trying the different settings out,and it didn't seem to crank/start up any faster than it was with the original setting. mine starts up with what sounds like a cpl full revolutions. i know what your talking about though...i have a predator 500 atv and when it's up to normal temp it seems to fire up before the starter has turned it over 1 revolution.

i'm still not sure i have it at it's best setting yet though,but i do feel i've made a real step towards a better than stock setting.