racetech fork rebound revalve

I ve googled and searched. then i contacted racetech and got no response. Where can i find information about the fork rebound revalve. my kit arrives tomorrow. i m eager to get started but not having watched any inline videos and not having heard of anybody doing it before, i am a bit worried. any pointers would be appreciated.

One thing I can say;
"I'm watching, don't screw this up or else I'll abandon following in your footsteps."

Just kidding.

Rumor has it the front is usually an easier DIY than the back, although it's also been said the WR rear is easier than most.
Wish I had better info to help you find a good video since you need it pronto.

I have seen some pretty decent generic videos for front shocks, of course best to find one based on the WR "type" front shock, which from what I understand so far, should not be too difficult, since the WR front shocks are similar, if not identical to the vast majority of modern forks that commonly utilize RaceTech's services.
It would be a LOT more comforting to follow a video or photo-packed PDF that depicted an actual WR's forks as the Guinea Pigs... Hopefully someone here knows of one

michiko wrote:

I ve googled and searched. then i contacted racetech and got no response. Where can i find information about the fork rebound revalve. my kit arrives tomorrow. i m eager to get started but not having watched any inline videos and not having heard of anybody doing it before, i am a bit worried. any pointers would be appreciated.

are you doing both rebound and compression valve? I just did compression, I didnt take the fork all the way apart, I just took out the compression stack and dampening rod out, your going to need a air gun with 9/16 hex allen socket and dampening rod tool witch you can make with 1" steel pipe, see the sticky in suspension. I did the same with rear shock, I just took the valve stack out changed and reinstalled

ive already done compression on the fork(twice) and the rear shock (three times)
there are numerous online videos walking through the above procedures but nothing on the fork rebound valve and did manage to take a look when changing the constitution mpressuin valve and removed the rod from the cartridge but couldnt work out what to do next.

im hoping there will be a good instruction with the valve kit which i have no doubt there will be. the problem is probably i i would beble to understand one word of it.

ps you dont need an air gun but it would make the job a hell of a lot faster

thanks for the write up it was very useful and am shore it has helped many

Ziabeam wrote:

One thing I can say;
"I'm watching, don't screw this up or else I'll abandon following in your footsteps."

Just kidding.

Rumor has it the front is usually an easier DIY than the back, although it's also been said the WR rear is easier than most.
Wish I had better info to help you find a good video since you need it pronto.

listen up tomorrow and i bet you can here some blaspheming and cursing coming over the pond. then you ll know i am really enjoying it, especially with the cloud of mosquitos that will be spectating and cheering the opposition.

michiko wrote:

listen up tomorrow and i bet you can here some blaspheming and cursing coming over the pond. then you ll know i am really enjoying it, especially with the cloud of mosquitos that will be spectating and cheering the opposition.

Just noticed there are 2 stickies in the "Technical/Supension section" regarding WR shocks. Might not get in to specifics regarding your valve, but could be useful in other ways... unless it's too late...?
How far did you get on Sunday?

good news, okay the rebound valve change is the easiest of the lot and you dont need even to change the oil or take the forks off.
bad news is after several adjustments the rebound valve upgrade makes no difference at all.

i changed the compression valve and that made a difference and then i bought a new fork spring which made the biggest difference.

im a bit pissed off because the rebound valve feels like a complete rip off. it mainly consists of parts which is not relevant to our bike and makes no difference.

i guess that is why there is no documentation of rebound valve upgrades on our bikes.

ive found some yz forks and wr450 forks wheel sets really cheap so im gonna give them a try.

I have yz forks I tried, what's your weight and your have to us stock ride height

You have a lot of $ into your forks now. I did the yz forks first and worked great but my ride hight was to high. So I put stock forks back on and a valve kit in it got better, then I put a spring and they now work almost as good but with 1" less travel the the yz forks

did you do the rebound revalve

could you not just lower the forks in the clamps?

sorry mate. i aleays read too mych inti everything. but you said almost as good but that means not quite as good as the yz forks but you still swapped back! any more in dpeth explanation would be appreciated. gor what its worth i like a raised feont end to get over big rocks etc

michiko wrote:

sorry mate. i aleays read too mych inti everything. but you said almost as good but that means not quite as good as the yz forks but you still swapped back! any more in dpeth explanation would be appreciated. gor what its worth i like a raised feont end to get over big rocks etc

first the yz forks front axle is larger, i fixed this with a aluminum tubing shim and used stock tire, axle and brakes. second the yz axle is off set forward a few mm more then the wrr, this is going to change the geometry of the forks, its going to turn slower but straight line handling is improved, the yz fork are 1 5/8" longer, i fixed this by raising fork in the triple clamp 1 1/2" and then you have raise the handlebars with bar spacers, then i made a brass shim to help clamp upper triple clamp. so when your done the front end is 1/8' higher then stock witch slowers the steering too, then you have to raise rear shock to stock height.

michiko wrote:

sorry mate. i aleays read too mych inti everything. but you said almost as good but that means not quite as good as the yz forks but you still swapped back! any more in dpeth explanation would be appreciated. gor what its worth i like a raised feont end to get over big rocks etc

first the yz forks front axle is larger,  i fixed this with a aluminum tubing shim and used stock tire, axle and brakes. second the yz axle is off set forward a few mm more then the wrr, this is going to change the geometry of the forks, its going to turn slower but straight line handling is improved, the yz fork are 1 5/8" longer, i fixed this by raising fork in the triple clamp 1 1/2" and then you have raise the handlebars with bar spacers, then i made a brass shim to help clamp upper triple clamp. so when your done the front end is 1/8' higher then stock witch slowers the steering too, then you have to raise rear shock to stock height.

would you say that the wr450f forks would work better as they are 3cm shorter?
the main problem with the yz is they are too long?
after al that you switched back?

michiko wrote:

would you say that the wr450f forks would work better as they are 3cm shorter?
the main problem with the yz is they are too long?
after al that you switched back?

i think the yz250, all yzf, and all wrf, 46mm forks are all the same size excempt for the internal valving. I switch back to the stock wrr fork, I got them working pretty good with valving and springs, Ive been racing the last few weekends and I have very good setup right now with wrr forks and dont want to change anything!!! this winter ill try the yz forks again and do some testing. I found ther is a lot of things you can do that changes handling, not just forks!!

so with the current wrr set up how much have you got them raised up in the steering clamps