racetech fork and shock rebuild is it worth it?

any feedback on rebuild\revalve race tech gold valves and new springs?

i'm considering having my suspension rebuilt and wanted to get some feedback from folks who have done it.

Getting the rear shock revalved is by far the best thing you can do to the wrr (after better tires) if you ride offroad.

The bike works a stupid amount better, its valved really bad stock.

Stillwater97 wrote:

any feedback on rebuild\revalve race tech gold valves and new springs?

i'm considering having my suspension rebuilt and wanted to get some feedback from folks who have done it.

I've read nothing but positive reviews from people who have had their suspension done so I had my forks and shock rebuilt by Racetech with new springs and gold valves about a month ago.  I've noticed an improvement but at this point I don't think it was worth the $1100(CDN) I spent.

There is a significant improvement riding whoops.  The bike is no longer tossed around and I can go a lot faster.  But overall I've been disappointed in how rough the suspension feels.  I put an Ohlins shock on my V Strom and it feels really smooth going over bumps on the road.  I think road riding is a little rougher on my WRR with the upgraded suspension.  I'm assuming that's because I asked to have the suspension set up for trail riding (which is mostly what I use it for) and a softer suspension is detrimental for that kind of riding.  I have noticed that the suspension feels  better the more aggressively I ride when I'm on trails.  Also I haven't played around with the clickers yet.

My disappointment is probably just a matter of expecting too much (better handling offroad and onroad) and not having spent any time adjusting the suspension to my specific needs.

Try backing the compression clickers out its takes 2 minutes, it will soften up quite a bit with the clickers turned out.

Okay, I'll try that.  Thanks for the advice!

Message body...like big lake said the rear shock needs help. I did mine myself with racetech gold valve. I found race tech data base shiming for compression valving and springis to stiff but rebound valving perfect for shock. im 220lb and didnt need any springs front or rear. the forks you can do a lot of adjusting with oil weight, oil height and the clickers

Message body...like big lake said the rear shock needs help. I did mine myself with racetech gold valve. I found race tech data base shiming for compression valving and springis to stiff but rebound valving perfect for shock. im 220lb and didnt need any springs front or rear. the forks you can do a lot of adjusting with oil weight, oil height and the clickers

watch all the videos and ask a lot of questions and for $140 for a gold valve you can't beat the performance upgrade

paulie1960 wrote:

watch all the videos and ask a lot of questions and for $140 for a gold valve you can't beat the performance upgrade

Do you have a link to the mentioned videos?... Found some install videos if that's what you meant, hoped to find videos explaining the benefits and how to identify the best recourse for individual requirements. Suspension tweaking is pretty overwhelming to my pea brain, especially having read how lots of folks dive in, and don't get the desired results. Lots of homework helps for sure.
Is the $140 for the gold valve alone, or install cost w/ or w/o shipping?

I'm ready to start fiddling with mine, and based on several posts here that indicate less is more, intend to revalve the rear, and tweak oil weight/levels up front, along with factory adjustments in the hopes that's all mine needs.

Ziabeam wrote:

paulie1960 wrote:

watch all the videos and ask a lot of questions and for $140 for a gold valve you can't beat the performance upgrade

Do you have a link to the mentioned videos?... Found some install videos if that's what you meant, hoped to find videos explaining the benefits and how to identify the best recourse for individual requirements. Suspension tweaking is pretty overwhelming to my pea brain, especially having read how lots of folks dive in, and don't get the desired results. Lots of homework helps for sure.
Is the $140 for the gold valve alone, or install cost w/ or w/o shipping?

I'm ready to start fiddling with mine, and based on several posts here that indicate less is more, intend to revalve the rear, and tweak oil weight/levels up front, along with factory adjustments in the hopes that's all mine needs.

Race tech, under tech support has videos, race tech spring search, try race tech DVS valve search gives you setup access without shim access, I bought my gold valve from amazon shipped for under $140, for the forks you need a air gun and valve holding tool ( I made mine with 1" pipe) to get the valve stack out, the shock you need air compressor and nitrogen needle, on the shock the hardest part is getting the C clips out, you need to make little picks, screwdrivers for that,

paulie1960 wrote:

Ziabeam wrote:

paulie1960 wrote:

watch all the videos and ask a lot of questions and for $140 for a gold valve you can't beat the performance upgrade

Do you have a link to the mentioned videos?... Found some install videos if that's what you meant, hoped to find videos explaining the benefits and how to identify the best recourse for individual requirements. Suspension tweaking is pretty overwhelming to my pea brain, especially having read how lots of folks dive in, and don't get the desired results. Lots of homework helps for sure.
Is the $140 for the gold valve alone, or install cost w/ or w/o shipping?

I'm ready to start fiddling with mine, and based on several posts here that indicate less is more, intend to revalve the rear, and tweak oil weight/levels up front, along with factory adjustments in the hopes that's all mine needs.

Race tech, under tech support has videos, race tech spring search, try race tech DVS valve search gives you setup access without shim access, I bought my gold valve from amazon shipped for under $140, for the forks you need a air  gun and valve holding tool ( I made mine with 1" pipe) to get the valve stack out, the shock you need air compressor and nitrogen needle, on the shock the hardest part is getting the C clips out, you need to make little picks, screwdrivers for that,

to improve the forks, start with bel ray 2.5w fork oil, if your a light guy start with 125mm oil level, and a heavy guy like me 105mm oil level plus a 2mm preload shim and for the rear if your light guy 105mm race sag and heavy guy 95mm, you can adjust your geometry by raising forks or adg. shock clevis. I race enduros and harescrambles with the wrr and tried and adjusted everything for competition.

I pulled the trigger and had new springs, gold valves installed in forks and shock.


rear shock is night and day, forks are nice too. feels much more planted. need to adjust a bit here and there, but much better.