Yamaha-Japan 'mini windscreen' + SP TADAO header (for WRR/X)

Every time I go for some off-road riding - first I need to go trough a 30-40 minute of a fairly crowded highway ride (in a speed of 100km/h = 63mph) just to get out of my metropolitan area, and in return.
On the other hand, I don't think that using a windscreen will be safe while I am doing off-road trails and/or singletracks...

So I've purchased the Yamaha-Japan "mini windscreen" (240mm*260mm) for the WRR (part # Q5K-YSK-057-R01).
http://www.ysgear.co.jp/Products/Detail/top/model/1069/item/Q5KYSK057R01

bought it from Amazon-Jpanan.
during checkout, after Japanese VAT reduction, the final price is: 10,627 ￥
international DHL express shipping & Handling: 3,213 ￥
total sum: 13800 ￥ (=118 US dollars).
https://www.amazon.co.jp/%E3%83%A4%E3%83%9E%E3%83%8F-%E3%83%9F%E3%83%8B%E3%82%B9%E3%82%AF%E3%83%AA%E3%83%BC%E3%83%B3-%E3%83%A9%E3%82%A4%E3%83%88%E3%82%B9%E3%83%A2%E3%83%BC%E3%82%AF-WR250X-Q5K-YSK-057-R01/dp/B004HO1FSG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482349956&sr=8-1&keywords=Q5K-YSK-057-R01

The screen is in "light smoke" color.
the original mounting point is to the upper triple clamp bolt (in my case, I've got there also my turn signals and my "Zeta triple clamp hand guard mounts").
Install is very easy, but I decided to improvise a bit:
I decided to drill 4 holes into some small aluminum piece, and to move the mounting points a bit far - so that the screen will stand a bit off from the headlight shell.




I did it because:
a- I did not liked the original mounting hardware. the supplied brackets are too short in my opinion. that made everything "too tight".
b- I wanted the screen to stand off a bit 'away' from the headlight shell. this allows for great laminar flow and should reduce buffeting.
c- I intend to replace those temporary nuts that I've used - with "butterfly nuts" - so that it will be easy to pull the screen off for dirt riding, and then put it back on for highway riding.

I am pleased with the final outcome.
this windscreen is pretty small, It sure looks nice & now I've got clean air flow over the top of my helmet in highway speeds.
In addition this setup allows me the flexibility of easy screen removal when necessary.

I would recommend this product.

I have just installed my SP-TADAO power box header (part # WR2-PB-02) for the WRR/X.
http://www.sptadao.co.jp/muffler/abigbike/wr250r/

bought it from - http://japan.webike.net/
total price: 160USD (including EMS shipping fee to my address in Israel).

SP-TADAO are a Japanese company (exhausts & motorbike accessories manufacturer). a few years ago they invented this distinctive "header box" design, and since it became quite popular in japan.
There are other 'duplications'/similar variations made by other great Japanese exhaust manufacturers (for instance: made by "BEAMS" (G246-65-100), or by "DB's" (Q5K-DBC-006-043)) with this particular header-box design that can fit the WRR, but I decided to purchase the "original" SP-TADAO power box header.

Note: this header is a direct replace to the stock header, and can be fitted to the stock muffler, and/or to an aftermarket muffler (made by FMF, Yoshimura, Delta barrel, etc.).
In addition, it is possible to use the stock header guard (but you will need to install it upside-down).

Install is very easy,



Here are some pictures of my WRR with the "SP-TADAO power box", but I haven't ride it / tried it yet (busy busy busy)...

Here is the Japanese installation manual for the SP TADAO header:





I have translated the instructions manual into English:

(you can use this translation in correlation with the pictures above)

* Perform the replacement on a flat surface with the muffler completely cooled down.
* No exhaust gasket is included in this product. To prevent exhaust gas leakage, make sure to acquire a new one that's specific for your motorcycle. (WRR/X part# 4FM-14613-00-00)
* It's recommended to cover painted areas around the muffler with tape to prevent scratches.

1. Remove exhaust pipe of normal muffler
- Remove the exhaust pipe protector.
- The protector will be reattached later on. Make sure not to lose the washer plate on the back.
- Loosen the bolt on the joint band.
- Remove the nuts that hold the flange in place and take out the exhaust pipe.
- Remove the joint gasket. (Will not be reused)

2. Provisionally attach the powerbox exhaust pipe
- After replacing the exhaust gasket with a new one (not included, please buy separately), attach the exhaust pipe.
- Since exhaust gases or liquid droplets may leak out at the joint, it's recommended to apply liquid gasket first.
- Reuse the normal nuts to fasten the flange.
- After making sure that the pipe is all the way in the back of the joint, move on to fixating the different parts.

* If you're having a hard time inserting the exhaust pipe, this can be made easier by loosening the two bolts on the silencer side.

3. After fixating all the parts, wipe the exhaust pipe clean,
Check the clearance and attachment of all the parts and then fixate them properly.
Wipe off any dirt and oil on the pipe with a degreasing agent. If you run the engine with any dirt or oil on the muffler, these will heat up and be more difficult to remove afterwards.

4. Attach exhaust protector
Normal exhaust pipe -> Powerbox
The protector should be attached in the opposite orientation of what it was before.
The pipe may sticks out a bit, so it's very important to attach the protector.

* Make sure to attach the washer plate on the back of the protector. If this is not done, the protector may build up heat and cause danger.

5. Start the engine. If there is no gas leak, this concludes the replacement.

• Even after replacing the muffler, be sure to regularly check that everything's still in place and that the bolts haven't loosened.
• After attaching the muffler, it's possible that white smoke and a certain smell will come out of it for a while due to oil on the inside. However, this is expected and will decrease with time.
• You may hear a frizzly sound after installing the powerbox exhaust pipe. This is expected: it's the sound of the exhaust gas expanding inside the powerbox and is no cause for concern.
• This product uses stainless steel. Because of this material's composition, it may get a burned appearance from heat buildup. However, this is expected and no cause for concern. (The color changes may not be uniform.)
Our product ホロクリンジェル SP (part number HC-03) is highly effective at removing this burned color.

Any updates? Curious to know how the header worked out.

Hi novaks47,

I have been using this SP TADAO "power-box" header (no programmer yet + I use the stock muffler) for a few months now.

I do feel some improvement on "bottom end" and on "mid range".
It's not significant, but it is noticeable...
and it's not a placebo effect.
It feels somehow like I've enlarged my rear sprocket by a tooth... i have noticed it immediately after i installed this header - cos two weeks before i installed this header, indeed I had a rear sprocket with one more tooth - so I remembered the feeling.

The sound/tune is basically the same as before (apparently cos I still use the stock muffler) - and thank god for that, because frankly I don't want my neighbors to hate me.
(To be honest, I don't have a problem with the relative "quietness" of the stock muffler... on the contrary).

Cool, thanks for the update! For the price, I might just give that header a try.

I too run the stock exhaust, but with the servo disabled. Originally, I ran the stock exhaust, minus the servo, and the airbox opened up a little, and no tune. I then ran a Leo Vince exhaust, just the muffler section, and that alone made a noticeable improvement, in the mid-range and up. A tune helped further. Problem was, the exhaust, even with the smallest insert, got to be quite annoying on longer rides. Just too bass heavy and loud for my tastes. I've since put the stock can back on, but kept the rest of the mods. Lost a bit of power, but not as bad as I thought it would be without the exhaust. Seems the tune goes a long ways!

I suspect the bump in felt power is from that header being larger diameter than stock. No idea if the little chamber does anything or not. It's hard to find any info on that thing, but that seems to be the case with Japanese moto parts in general.

Two times wrote:

I have been using this SP TADAO "power-box" header (no programmer yet + I use the stock muffler) for a few months now.

This appears to be a simple Helmholtzh Resonator, similar to the FMF Powerbomb and Megabomb headers. It would be interesting to compare all these headers to see which one produces the biggest effect.

novaks47 wrote:

Cool, thanks for the update! For the price, I might just give that header a try.

Yes the price is not that high. you can buy it on amazon.co.jp, or you can buy it on https://japan.webike.net
sometimes "Webike" offer a sale or a coupon-code on their items. in addition "Webike" lately started to offer non-EMS shipments. so they can send you this header on an "Economy Small Packet" shipment, which is quite inexpensive (around 14$ shipping fee).

novaks47 wrote:

It's hard to find any info on that thing, but that seems to be the case with Japanese moto parts in general.

Well it's not that hard to find info.
you can use Google-translate, and read reviews on this SP-TADAO header,
on Amazon.co.jp:
https://www.amazon.co.jp/%E3%82%B9%E3%83%9A%E3%82%B7%E3%83%A3%E3%83%AB%E3%83%91%E3%83%BC%E3%83%84%E5%BF%A0%E7%94%B7-SP-TADAO-%E3%82%A8%E3%82%AD%E3%82%BE%E3%83%BC%E3%82%B9%E3%83%88%E3%83%91%E3%82%A4%E3%83%97-WR2-PB-02/dp/B013LJOPRA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1494318854&sr=8-5&keywords=sp+tadao

and dozens more reviews on webike.net:
https://www.webike.net/commu/impre/articleShouhinList/21240329/

Or you can just skip the reading part, and just take look at the bottom-line high score. :)
it seems that this header is very popular in Japan. usually they attach it to an aftermarket FMF or Yoshimura muffler...
FMF products (as far as I can tell) are accessible & quite popular in Japan, yet they prefer the combination of a FMF muffler together with this SP TADAO header - instead of a FMF Powerbomb/Megabomb headers.

johnkol wrote:

Two times wrote:

I have been using this SP TADAO "power-box" header (no programmer yet + I use the stock muffler) for a few months now.

This appears to be a simple Helmholtzh Resonator, similar to the FMF Powerbomb and Megabomb headers. It would be interesting to compare all these headers to see which one produces the biggest effect.