I still am not sure exactly what "the airbox mod" is?

After reading a bunch of forum posts, and watching a bunch of YouTube videos, I'm still not quite sure what exactly is meant by "the airbox mod".

If I were to do the basic uncorking procedure (which I may do, but not until after I fully break in the bike...like 1000 miles), I understand the basic exhaust and fuel programmer combo. However, every thread that I read refers to this airbox mod, but I can't seem to find a clear cut answer as to what exactly it entails. My understanding is as follows:

- The AIS gets removed (cycle Cruze has a video on YouTube for this)
- There is something called an "EXUP", which is also part of the exhaust system that gets removed. Someone else has a YouTube video about this. After removal, there is a "cap" that is bolted back on in place of where this part used to go.

- There is an airbox "flapper" which someone on some YouTube video removed, and apparently this is controversial as to whether or not it is a good idea to do this. After removal, the tubes are essentially taped off so no dirt gets in there.

- There is another video in which something else is referred to as the "air box flapper"" which some people remove which seems to be something different.

- Then some people just drill holes in the top of the air box.

- Then cycle cruza has his own version of the air box mod in which he cuts the door open and inserts an air conditioning filter in its place.


So basically I'm just wondering what the general consensus is here as to what constitutes "the air box mod", and is it necessary in accomplishing what we are trying to achieve (gaining more horsepower, being able to power wheelie in first/second gear, and basically maximum uncorkage...if that's a word)?

Thanks a lot!

PS - I will be probably riding more off road then on road...well, maybe 50/50.
PPS - I'd be purchasing another airbox that I can cut up in case I mess anything up. This way I know I can always go back to stock if necessary.
PPPS - I think I found my answer...somewhere, someone linked to a page in the untimate Wr250r thread on advforum.com in which it has detailed pictures. My brain hurts from 5 straight hours of forum research!

To confuse you more... If you have a gytr filter on ur ttr230, it should fit you wrr too... Ohhh the options...

There is a ton of different ways to mod the airbox... If you add more air you should add more fuel... Getting the air out as fast as it's coming in brings the exhaust into play... Leads to modding the airbox, exhaust, adding a power programmer, and ais altogether... 1000-1500$$$

exup is exhaust not airbox.

Ais is exhaust/airbox... It goes from the air box to the exhaust... If you don't wanna melt your cat leave it unless you go aftermarket on the exhaust.. It supplies fresh air into the exhaust to meet emissions regulations.

Power is controversial, quality suspension mods are less so... Suspension should take priority over power on any bike.... 250-1100$$$

This page on wrrdualsport.com will provide plenty of information on intake modifications.

Dicklane...thanks man. I just use regular stock filters, so no worries there, but still good to know. As far as suspension upgrades go, I'm still a pretty new rider (maybe 2.5 years total dirtbike riding experience). I've only ever ridden my TTR before, and apparently everything on that bike sucked. I've ridden in the pocono mountains where it's insanely rocky and hilly with some hardcore riders who all had highly-tuned KTMs. I kept up with them pretty well. They were going on all day about suspension, but I really had no input in the conversation because I don't know anything other then just twist the throttle and try not to crash :).

Based on my limited experience, this bike in stock form feels AMAZING in comparison to my TTR. I'm 170 lbs. So I really don't know enough to justify getting any suspension upgrades, but I do know what a few more HP feels like. Therefore, it makes more sense to me to go with the power upgrades first. I'm gonna start with just the sprocket change though, because I can feel that the bike would operate better with a bit lower gearing. All this intake/exhaust stuff wouldn't be for a while...but I just like to have an understanding of what I will be doing for when the time comes. Thanks for the suggestions!

Jonkol....that is perfect. That would've saved me hours of searching. Thanks a lot!

There's a bunch of different ways to open up the airbox and everyone thinks the way they did it is best lol.

If you have a aftermarket pipe you want as much air as you can get into the motor, the pipe wont help much without more air getting into the motor. You can take the airbox door off, this is easy and works great if you don't deal with water holes off road. You can also punch out the flapper (ulitimate airbox mod) which is almost enough air for a piped motor but it could use a little more and you can drill holes above the filter which adds lots of air flow.

I have the flapper completely removed and a 2 1/2 by 2 1/2 hole above the filter for maximum air flow, this works great offroad as the hole above the filter is higher and better protected from water/dust than the stock opening.
I had a fmf pipe and programmer to go with this, it ran well.
I now have the same airbox and programmer setup with the stock pipe with the exup stuck open, it runs about the same for the first 1/2 of the rpm but it had a bit more power after 4000 or so rpms with the pipe. If you don't mind the noise the pipe does make the bike faster.

This is a good pic of the air box mods. Mines like a combo of the 2 airboxes.
I'd rather have the one with holes above the filter, this guys thinks it looks bad but that part of the airbox is protected from water really well so the holes only add flow, theres no down side to putting holes there.
http://www.wrrdualsport.com/images/stories/tech/intake/airbox_16.jpg

Irishman301 wrote:

They were going on all day about suspension, but I really had no input in the conversation because I don't know anything other then just twist the throttle and try not to crash :).

everybody wants to "just twist the throttle and try not to crash". that is the synopsis of all the doctrine, in one sentence.
:)

"try not to crash" = suspension.

Especially if you will increase the power of this bike - it will be difficult to control & to harness this power, with stock suspension.
it will be difficult to ride fast on soft-sandy or on rugged terrain. it will be difficult to corner fast & yet to stay on the saddle.

(In my opinion suspensions are THE bottleneck of this bike, cos (except changing gear-ratio & tires) this is only upgrade that will give you a leap in performance & in confidence to ride fast and to do stuff that you can't do on this bike otherwise as stock.
no matter if you are a novice rider or not... once you will upgrade your suspensions you will feel it... you will feel the this leap.
On the other hand, "power mods" won't gain you much. both empiric and in the bottom-line behavior of this bike & the spectrum of things that you can do while you're riding on it. no matter what air-box or injection-programmer mods you will have -> you just won't gain much out of this 250CC 4-takt "un-stretched" motor.)

Hey thanks for the clarification on that Two times..

Since we are on the topic of suspension, do you think that it is possible to achieve this perfect setup with the adjustable stock suspension, or do you think that aftermarket suspension of some sort is required?

Irishman301 wrote:

Hey thanks for the clarification on that Two times..

Since we are on the topic of suspension, do you think that it is possible to achieve this perfect setup with the adjustable stock suspension, or do you think that aftermarket suspension of some sort is required?

I know that many will disagree, but in my opinion, the answer is: yes. an aftermarket suspension of some sort is indeed required. even before (and some would say "better before") you will find the limitations of the stock suspension by yourself.
at least regarding the rear suspension.

Of course I'm not saying that you should jump into buying an Ohlins complete rear shock immediately... :)
but i do think that you should start looking for aftermarket solutions of some sort (at least) for your rear shock.

If you have the money to spend & you see this bike as more than just a short-term "spring board" towards another more professional dirt bike - than in my opinion this should be on the top of your mod list (even before "convenience mods" such as seat, windscreen, etc.)

Two times, does ohlins make a shock for this bike or is it a custom order jobby?

Also I've only seen one person claim this bikes suspension was fine. They admitted it could be improved at the same time tho. Rider skill will always matter the most followed by suspension and lastly power...

Two times wrote:

I know that many will disagree, but in my opinion, the answer is: yes. an aftermarket suspension of some sort is indeed required.

I don't necessarily disagree, but I think every user should determine for themselves what they are trying to accomplish before they start spending a lot of money on suspension work. If all one wants out of the bike is to leisurely wander around the countryside, then I believe the stock suspension is adequate.

However, if one wants to really push the pace (either on- or off-road) then suspension improvements will yield great benefits in bike handling and rider confidence.

In other words, the stock suspension will not attempt to kill you, until you start going really fast.

From that perspective, I believe engine work is more important, because the lack of power could kill you if you're not really careful with the bike.

Cool thanks for the replies.

I'm still set on doing the uncorking/power mods first. Then maybe later on down the line, I will look into suspension upgrades. I just like fast(er), zippier, bikes....the kind that have a tendency to want to lift up when I'm twisting the throttle. I figure that the best way to achieve that without doing any engine upgrades is to simply uncork the bike and change the gearing. I did the exact same thing to my last bike, which is universally agreed to be an all-around turdmobile of a bike, and I was extremely happy to get the most that I could out of it. I have no clue what good suspension feels like....all I know is the WR2 feels light years better then what I was riding before.

Any suspension work that I do will start with tweaking the stock suspension (done by someone who knows more then me). I'm really not good enough of a rider yet to even be taking corners/whoops/etc. fast enough to require finely tuned suspension. Simply riding like a 10-year old girl through the tough stuff keeps me on my bike .

dicklane625 wrote:

Two times, does ohlins make a shock for this bike or is it a custom order jobby?

Hi,
Indeed Ohlins doesn't produce a rear-shock for the WRR/X "per-se". (unfortunately. cos they do make one for the DRZ & for the CRF250L. but not for the WRR).

Only Hyperpro produce an "official" aftermarket rear shock for the Yamaha WRR/X, that is in their regular catalogue.

BUT there are some licensed Ohlins distributers & workshops, all around the world, that will build you a custom-made Ohlins rear shock (based on the Ohlins S46PR1C2 model, or the S46PR1C1 model) specifically for the WRR or the WRX.
I myself have an Ohlins rear shock made by "Ohlins-France" (the exclusive distributor of the ÖHLINS brand in France (company also known as "PFP Racing"). they are building (under the licence & in collaboration with the main Ohlins factory in Sweden) custom-made Ohlins suspension products for dozens of different motorcycles... including for the Yamaha WR250R/X).

I did some research and wrote about it & on other Ohlins options for the WRR, here in the suspension sub-forum.

I think I do remember reading about it at some point. For me in the states it seems my best option is still go race... I commented on a hyperpro thread n got laughed at...