130/90w headlight bulb

I can get 130/90w bulbs for under 5 a piece.

Anyone ran one? Can the housing handle any extra heat it puts off? Do I have to run heavier wires and add a relay?

Still wondering if anyone else has done this. I have all my parts now, bulb, relays, fuses etc. I might be able to sneak the relays behind the headlight, but its tight. I wanted to put them by the stock fuse box but there's no room there right now. Maybe with AIS system removed, as some of that is in there. They also look super professional stuck in the wire channel right behind the speedo. lmao.

I don't know what I'll gain from doing this, or if I'm gonna melt my housing, but I will post up after I figure it out.

Also adding an led aux light. I want to tie that into the headlight feed. My headlight will be drawing power from the relays that circuit should handle one maybe two if one isn't enough for me. That way it only comes on like the headlight, after the bike is started.

Forgot to ask the question in that second part. Anyone know a good spot to tie into the headlight feed? I know it's blue and what bundle of wires its in, might be able to follow it with more light, but where I was working on it I'd have to pull the tank.

As I recall, the stock headlight already runs through a relay of some sort.
If its just a normal relay, you could see how many amps its rated for, and either use it, or upgrade depending on the rating.
Also, the stock headlight fuse is 10A as i recall, you need to change that to a 15-20A if you use a 130w bulb

Id just go LED instead, or use a higher quality stock wattage bulb like philips xtreme vision or simular.

ifyou still want to carry on, you could wire the relay to a socket matching the bulb, and just use that with the connector for the wirikng loop, to "tap "in" hope this makes sence, otherwise see attached picture (eastern beaver kit)

The way I understand it, the stock relay turns on the headlight circuit after the engine is started, triggered by the ecu. I ordered everything to make my own setup like eastern beaver offers, I guess. That pic actually makes me feel better cause their relays are tucked behind the headlight too from the looks of it...

I ran a brighter stock wattage bulb until the low beam blew, it was a little better, but I want more. I thought about a led bulb, but every led I've tried doesn't work worth a shit in a certain low ambient light. So if the extra watts doesn't do it for me, I'm gonna try to stick in a hid, which is why I'm not to worried about the housing. I think that requires quite a bit of fucking with to get the hid fit up and working good. Not blinding people and such.

I am adding an aux led too, I think that's where you got confused. That I want to be powered off the feed for the headlight, since that circuit will only be triggering relays it should have enough juice. IIf it's after the switch it will only be on with high or low beam but if its before it will be on anytime the engine has been started. So if I tap in there and run it to my aux switch it'll be a decent setup. That bunch of wires looks to nice to want to cut into to find the one I want. I opened the switch and I can't nicely get at it in there either. I don't think it will take that long to trace, but I'm working in a tiny space with no light cause the weather is crap today. An hour or so on a decent day n I'll have it. But yea that's what the last question I asked was about.

dicklane625 wrote:

I am adding an aux led too,

90/150 Watt bulb and Aux LED's too? I think most states require a vision test before issuing a license.

Really I do think you may be over doing it a tad. I have old worn out eyes and the stock headlight with some ADVMonster LED's running through a digital dimmer gives me plenty of light when I need it.

Then again if you like to tinker... then what the hell go for it.

So your saying this bulb is gonna be bright as fuck? Like I said I wasn’t sur how much I’d gain

Double the wattage does not mean double the perceived brightness. 130W is an invitation to melt something; I'd go for either an LED bulb, or external LED lights.

I presume you do know that both modifications are illegal on the road.

Okay so led led led. Anyone got anything useful to add to the conversation?

Well the bulb may be brighter but I am not sure you are going to get the benefit that you think you will get from it.

Your headlight beam pattern and strength is due in part to the bulb you are using and to a large part the design of headlight reflector and lens, which are both designed for a certain bulb (say like a 9004).

I have done the LED and HID headlight bulb and the results were not the best - in fact I went back to a standard bulb. While there was more light, the beam pattern was terrible. In both cases I had a nice big patch of darkness in the center of beam.

In the end I went with what is my standard setup, stock headlight and two LED (in my case from ADVMonster.com) mounted up on the handguards (I found the higher you mounted the lights the better they worked on the trail - not so much when it is foggy tho). I powered these lights through an ADVMonster digital dimmer where I could either turn the LED's off when on low beam or power them at 10 to 100% full output. When switching to High Beam the LED's go to 100% power.

Johnkol is right, these mods are technically illegal for street use - then again so is removing your reflectors, altering any light (LED blinkers, aftermarket tail light assembly) and modifying the exhaust system and some intake modifications. Thing is it comes down to what the LEO's in the area you are riding are looking for. If you are out being a hooligan on a busy street with lots of people and traffic - well they are probably going to have a talk with you about your behavior and perhaps provide you a performance away in a manner to dictate future behavior.

I commute on my WRR and several of the local Motorcycle mounted LEO's have pulled up next to me when I am refueling and complimented me on the light setup and asked how I did it and where to buy the hardware. They really liked how it made the bike more visible to other drivers.

Now that is not to say that I have universal approval by all LEO's. One day I may be riding in a different county or state and run into their version of Barney Fife. Depending where this happens the penalty could range from a warning to the seizure of my bike and freedom (granted this has a lot to do with how I interact with the officer and what the heck I was doing that attracted his attention at the time).

At the end of the day the mod is still technically illegal but the consequences of violating that law has a lot to do with your personality, charm, and political power - just ask Hillary (or just about any politician).

Anyways, just got rained out, but all wires are hooked up and working how I want.

For anyone looking for a good place to hook an aux light. The blue wire that feeds the headlight switch goes to a connector that is sandwiched btwn the frame and radiator tank. After the left tank shroud is off it's only two bolts and the metal bracket that holds the radiator tank, fuse box, horn, and ais jobbie can drop outa the way enough to get to it. This seemed like the nicest spot to tie into it to me. After it's taped up it'll never be seen, and the aux light functions like the headlight, it only comes on after the bike has been started but still works on high or low beam.

I understand the legality of offroad lights. They are for offroad. Bulb changes are quick and painless.

The guys at hella were smart enough to realize that the reflector/coil relationship matters. I had read other people saying stuff about the light coils being in a different spot. I ordered one first and checked. Can't eyeball a difference with the help of a micrometer. So I think it should make a good beam. Haters I say, your all haters.

I wouldn't suggest anyone try to put hid lights in a stock housing. It's all gotta be done right. Your housing should be at least 90% hacked apart and rebuilt again, to be close to working right. It goes back to taking the time and following through vs sticking the most badass bulb you can in and calling it good.

I did test the output of the socket before and after. It's hard to tell what is and isn't me shaking, but the volts seem to be more consistent with the relays wired in. I wanted to see if it mattered on a newer bike and my opinion is it does. I haven't got to testing the 130/90 but the stocker looks brighter in the day.

Sounds like you have done some homework.

Like I said before.. it is your money and time. Enjoy!

Was following this post with interest, and then it just died. Would like to know how this story ended? Not all of us are haters.

Not a hater - just nervous. I fitted a 100/90 H4 bulb to my TTR250 some years ago, and it suffered a melted bulb connector. Nasty!

So I don't reckon I'd be going down the high-wattage H4 path on my WR-R!