New rider, let’s start some maintenance!

Howdy!
I got my first bike since I was 10(I’m 32 now), and it’s a WRR! It’s a 2014 to be specific and it’s been beat to heck but it’s the best! It looks like it’s got a rebuilt head and the tail lights are hanging off, plastics scratched to hell or missing... but it runs great... when it’s warmed up. If I try and run it right when I start it up it bogs badly, but after about 5 minutes of running it seems to go fine. Is there something I can do about this? Clean the injectors or something? It came with an fog powercore4(super loud) but it doesn’t have the chip for it and the unreliable seller told me that was the problem, doesn’t seem to make sense though since it goes away. My main question though would be what should I be doing this winter to keep it in top shape? I’ve been riding it for about 3 months and I have no idea what condition the oil or air filter or any of that is in. I know the coolant is alright cause it was low when I bought it and I topped it off and it’s been full ever since. What are my service intervals looking like and what’s anything major I should check? Also the chain seems to be stretching a lot as I have to keep adjusting out for it which I hope is just my chain going. I got a lot of stuff to do to get the bud light up to speed; case saver, skid plate, rear tire, tail light, hand guards all on my list but is there anything else you guys can think of? I don’t have much money so it’s gotta be only the absolute necessary stuff.
Also anybody know anywhere to ride in southern Vermont? I just moved here from the pine barrens of south jersey and hoping to finally get some mountain trails under my belt

Buy the Yamaha Owner's Manual and the Yamaha Service Manual.

For sure, I guess what I’m saying is since I don’t know what the service history of my bike is, what’s the first maintenance I should be thinking about?

Trail surfer wrote:

My main question though would be what should I be doing this winter to keep it in top shape? I’ve been riding it for about 3 months and I have no idea what condition the oil or air filter or any of that is in. I know the coolant is alright cause it was low when I bought it and I topped it off and it’s been full ever since. What are my service intervals looking like and what’s anything major I should check?

You should clean the air filter and replace the oil and oil filter immediately. If you aren't sure what's in there you should have done this as soon as you bought the bike. Operating instructions, basic maintenance requirements, and service intervals are all in the Owner's Manual available for free on Yamaha's web site..

Trail surfer wrote:

Also the chain seems to be stretching a lot as I have to keep adjusting out for it which I hope is just my chain going.

Your chain may need to be replaced, but with your lack of experience it's more likely that you have it adjusted too tight. It probably looks plenty loose to you when the bike is on the kickstand, but when you're riding it the suspension compresses into a tighter position that puts stress on the chain. Ideally you should have 1/2" to 3/4" (15mm to 20mm) of free play in the chain when the swingarm is compressed into alignment with the front and rear sprockets. This is where the chain is the tightest.

Thanks for the reply, I’ll get on the oils and air filter. I did adjust it he chain to spec twice now but each time after about a couple of weeks it becomes way too loose. I guess it’s just time for a new chain.

Trail surfer wrote:

Thanks for the reply, I’ll get on the oils and air filter. I did adjust it he chain to spec twice now but each time after about a couple of weeks it becomes way too loose. I guess it’s just time for a new chain.

You should be able to find a pdf shop manual online for free: remember the WR250F is a totally different bike, I found a lot of those when I was looking.  There's a maintenance schedule in there: with an unknown history I'd go through and do most of the periodic stuff right away.

The air filter needs to be cleaned and oiled with an appropriate filter oil.  No Toil works well for me.  No Toil also sells pre-oiled filters which are convenient--it's handy to have a spare filter.

Definitely change your engine oil and filter asap!  Install a magnetic drain plug from Rocky Mtn ATV and inspect it the next time you change your oil.

it's worth flushing your brake fluid or at least inspecting it: if it's approaching the color of cola it's time.

I'd replace the coolant, it's cheap/easy to do and it's likely it's never been done.

If your chain needs a lot of adjustment that's a sign it needs to be replaced.  Take a look at your sprockets as they are likely worn too.  Also read up on the chain slider that wears in a non-obvious place and will lead to swingarm damage.  If you don't adjust your chain correctly it will prematurely wear the slider which is pricey.  I error on the side of loose for a dirt bike chain though I ride a lot of dirt, street might dictate a different tension.

Mine exhaust is stock but from reading here the WRR needs to be modified to run well with an aftermarket pipe.  My $.02 is you're better off with stock though not everyone agrees.  Also check your airbox, there are a lot of mods with that, some good, some not but that will affect how it runs.

If it's had unknown head work I'd at the least check the valves but also generally inspect the valve train.  Just pull the valve cover and look around for unusual wear.  If it's running okay there's probably not a ton to worry about but if you see odd wear you might be able to head off a bigger problem.  Change your spark plug while you're in there.

WRRs are tough bikes, with a little TLC it should be a great bike.

-morgan

Dang Morgan, that was some great advice, I’m gonna start to chip away at that stuff. I ordered an oil filter and will pick up some oil when that comes in and change it. I ordered a K&N air filter, do I need to oil that thing? Should I be getting one of those sock looking covers for it? Next on my list is a new chain but I gotta parse our my purchases as I’m stay at home dad now, going to school while my wife brings it in so I don’t have a lot of extra change. I’m just hoping I can find some good trails up here when the bike gets tip top!

Can you not post photos on here from an iphone?

Trail surfer wrote:

Dang Morgan, that was some great advice, I’m gonna start to chip away at that stuff. I ordered an oil filter and will pick up some oil when that comes in and change it. I ordered a K&N air filter, do I need to oil that thing? Should I be getting one of those sock looking covers for it?  Next on my list is a new chain but I gotta parse our my purchases as I’m stay at home dad now, going to school while my wife brings it in so I don’t have a lot of extra change. I’m just hoping I can find some good trails up here when the bike gets tip top!

There is some debate on K&N filters but I would avoid them particularly for offroad: they are generally considered to flow too much air which means potential tuning issues but more important off road it means more dirt/dust in your engine.  Get yourself a No Toil, Twin Air or OEM filter.  Some even come pre-oiled.  Those should be cheaper than K&N.  Yes, you definitely want to oil your air filter: filter oil is what prevents dust from being sucked in your motor.   air filter maintenance is very important on a dirt bike, perhaps more so than engine oil.  

I don't know a lot about the socks but have friends who use and like them.  I think they just provide an extra layer of filtration and are easier to clean, both good things.

Sure, the up-front cost is daunting but on the bright side the WRR is about as low maintenance as dirt bikes get so should be cheap to keep running once you get through the initial work.

-morgan

Ah dang, the air filter is already in the way. Hopefully I get free returns! I’m definitely not riding on the road and I’m usually covered head to toe as in mud when I’m done riding and I don’t want any of that inside my motor...

YZEtc wrote:

Buy the Yamaha Owner's Manual and the Yamaha Service Manual.

online owners manual ...

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/582262/Yamaha-Wr250r.html?page=6#manual

When I buy a used bike like that I usually run a couple tanks thru it with sea foam @ 1 oz per gallon, had good luck and it is a cheap clean if it does the job.

So, have you done anything yet??

Oil Change
Valve Check - This is not that difficult depending on your wrenching comfort level, but with your bike running poorly you should see where you are at
Replace coolant and spark plug since your in there anyway
After that, I would grease your swingarm/rear end, wasn't hard to do. Same with head bearing, not sure what it is called that one is still on my list.
Replace fork oil
Put on an IMS tank for added mileage
For Skid plat...Oh wait I am getting carried away

morgan9283 wrote:

The air filter needs to be cleaned and oiled with an appropriate filter oil.  No Toil works well for me.  No Toil also sells pre-oiled filters which are convenient--it's handy to have a spare filter.

Be careful with the No Toil air filter oil: it can eat away the air filter if the air filter was not designed for No Toil's specific formulation (ask me how I know this).

If you want to use No Toil's air filter oil, get the GYTR air filter and the Yamalube air filter oil (which is made by No Toil).

johnkol wrote:

morgan9283 wrote:

The air filter needs to be cleaned and oiled with an appropriate filter oil.  No Toil works well for me.  No Toil also sells pre-oiled filters which are convenient--it's handy to have a spare filter.

Be careful with the No Toil air filter oil: it can eat away the air filter if the air filter was not designed for No Toil's specific formulation (ask me how I know this).

If you want to use No Toil's air filter oil, get the GYTR air filter and the Yamalube air filter oil (which is made by No Toil).

Oh, right good point.  No Toil at least used send a replacement filter for free when this happens which it has on all of my oem filters.

-morgan

I have noticed since I bought my WRR new in 08, that it needs to warm up for a few minutes when cold. Even though it's fuel injected. I have talked to other WRR owners that say the same thing. I always start the bike up while I put my gear which takes a few minutes,, Just my 2 cents,,, jason

My 2016 doesn't like to go until it's warmed up for a couple of minutes. One time I hopped on it, started it, and took off right away. It sputtered a little out of the garage, then stalled at the end of my driveway about 100 yards away. Usually if I get going to quickly it just stutters a little.

No issues with mine.
Have you guys set the CO level in the dash, and adjusted the TPS?