Want to extend clutch lever arm, need advice.

Hi. I've been riding my WR250R for about a year now and really feel like im struggling in tight or technical terrain because I can't get decent engagement from the clutch.

So my goal is to lighten the clutch pull.

The options are,
RSR / adjustable type lever arm
Hydraulic clutch kit
Extend lever arm at the crankcase.

I considered the hydraulic clutch for a while but ultimatly came to the conclusion that it's not what I'm looking for. I'm certain it promises better control and an easier pull, which is what I am after. But the system looks be be the same as mountain bike hydraulic brakes and those are notoriously hard to bleed, require specific mineral oil, and are susceptible to being ruined by dust in the seals.
These down sides rule it out for me because I don't want to be left stranded somewhere with no availabe repair for a complex system like this.
A cable I can replace, rather easily, even with one not compatible with the bike, just to get home.

The RSR.
I ordered one. I t should be in by the end of the week, seems like a good bet but not everyone reported a great improvement from it.

Last option.

Extend the lever arm.

I like this because I can keep my existing levers ( which I quite like ) and because it will give more leverage at the crankcase rather than more leverage at the lever. This is important because the total force require and stress put on the cable will be lower throughout the cable.
This should in theory mean that the clutch cable will last longer and that less force will be needed to pull.

The issue is I read somewhere ( Cant find the post now ) that in order to remove the lever arm, which is down on the block you need to remove the clutch.
My question is how much disassembly is required?

Do I just need to pull apart the clutch and then I will be bale to pull the lever arm upwards out of the block? Or do I need to disasemble a significant amount of the internals ( clutch basket, etc ) just to get at the damn thing?



This diagram shows whats inside there but I'm still a bit lost as to weather I just need to pullthe front clutch disk off and possibly also remove the plates.

My goal would be to remove the pushrod but I'm not sure what that whole ball system is all about and how the tapered/stepped pushrod could be held in place.

Can someone who has disassembled the clutch before, or ever performed this mod chime in and let me know what to expect?

My clutch is about the lightes cableactuated clutch I have ever had.
The "problem" with this bike is, it goes from no clutch, to full in very short travel. A lighter clutchpull wont fix this.

A free mod (to getting a lighter pull) is to remove the spring at the lever arm at the engine case. It actually works.

Also make sure the clutchcable is routed properly, and is free from grit ect.

Lower gearing, and spending more time on the bike will help enormously.

Jens Eskildsen wrote:

My clutch is about the lightes cableactuated clutch I have ever had.
The "problem" with this bike is, it goes from no clutch, to full in very short travel. A lighter clutchpull wont fix this.

I was thinking about that same thing when I read this. With the longer arm it seems like the friction zone of the clutch will become smaller.

I lubed my cables the other day, that made a difference on a 3-month-old bike.

Or get a Rekluse, become the worlds best clutch slipper.

Jens Eskildsen wrote:

A free mod (to getting a lighter pull) is to remove the spring at the lever arm at the engine case. It actually works.

Hey @Jens, you're talking about #22 in the diagram above? I don't remember seeing that mod mentioned but sounds interesting.

Extending the arm ( Item 21 ) would definitely make the friction zone larger, as it would take more travel of the clutch lever to pivot the arm the same amount.

In terms of the other suggestions, I lubed the cable when I just go the bike and again since. It's well lubed.
cable routing could be a little better. I have 1.5 inch bar risers so the cable is at it's limit of tightness. If anyone know a part number for a cable I could get that is 1-3 inches longer I would love to replace it.

I'll try removal of the spring but to me the spring seems like it provides negligible resistance compared to the 5 heavy duty springs actually inside the clutch.

I recall seeing a number of postings of KRL guys doing that mod, you might do a search for that.

I did research the KLR guys doing the mod. It seems like on that bike ( Also own a KLR ) you do not need to disassemble the clutch to get the shaft free of the block to perform the mod. You only need to remove the clutch cover. That's the step I'm interested in and not sure about.

jsneeb wrote:

Extending the arm ( Item 21 ) would definitely make the friction zone larger, as it would take more travel of the clutch lever to pivot the arm the same amount.

That's correct, extending the arm would both make the friction zone wider, and make the clutch pull easier.

But both these functions are achieved with the Righteous Stunt Clutch lever that you said you ordered, so why don't you wait to test the RSC before embarking on a modification that is not that straightforward?

Incidentally, I have a similar clutch lever to the RSC, and it does solve the problems you identified; no additional modifications are needed.

old post, but did anyone come to an answer on this one? I have the same question / issue

Old post yeah but not answered.  I haven't needed to take the clutch out of my 2020 yet so...

Looking at Cyclepedia Service Manual for WRR, it appears the clutch lever shaft lifts straight out of the case after removing the clutch cable guide (8mm bolts).  Does not appear to require disassembling the clutch, but again - I haven't done this on my WRR.

On my KLR650, I welded a 10 mm extension on the clutch lever shaft to do exactly what the poster asked.  It did increase the engagement zone for a more responsive clutch and decreased the lever pressure.  On the KLR, the clutch lever shaft lifts straight out of the case without disassembling the clutch. It did take some turning/finangling of the shaft to get it to the right position to release and pull out.

FWIW

atomhart wrote:

Old post yeah but not answered.

The question that the OP asked was answered: in order to make the clutch pull easier you either extend the clutch pull arm at the engine end, or you get an RSC or other similar clutches.

What question do you think has not been answered?

"The issue is I read somewhere ( Cant find the post now ) that in order to remove the lever arm, which is down on the block you need to remove the clutch.
My question is how much disassembly is required?"

What are you trying to accomplish? For an easier pull clutch just get a $30 easy clutch lever and you're done.

Why would anyone ever consider removing the clutch pulling arm and fabricate an extension? The OP got an RSC clutch, solved his problem, and hasn't checked back in 4 years.

Ahhh…the old post police. Johnkol on patrol. You didn’t answer the ops question, you only addressed one part of it. Yes, it is old. Guess what? People still look for answers on old posts. So drink your coffee, take your dump, and move on johnkol.