Summary - WR250 lowering? -R -F -X

Hi Im probably buying a WR250R , but not sure if if will be -R or -F . I am 5'6" with inseam 29" - 30". So I want to lower my bike.
Yamaha site states -R seat clearance is 36.6" and -F clearance is 37.6" . I sat on a TW230 which is 34.3" according to Yamaha. I think I need ( or want) to get to at least this point.

I am a little confused about the different options, related approximate costs and quality links for lowering a bike. Can you folks help put together a neat and accurate summary for us?
Possible differences between the -R -F and -X models?
NOT looking for a lot of details so this should not be too difficult using the combined knowledge in the group.
This will just be a stepping off point for other threads ( some of which already exist of course but then it will be easier to navigate them).


1) stock suspension - stock lowering ? What is this? Front? Back? DIY?
2) Yamalink - how does this do anything?
3) New seat or seat shaving - this is obvious.
4) Suspension - there is something else like spacers or something? Cost a lot though?
5) Riding boots - I think riding boots has some benefit right?
6) what else ?
7) what else?
etc

thanks bunch

I can tackle a few of your questions:

1) Stock suspension lowering probably refers to the WR250R and WR250X, particularly with the adjustment at the bottom of the rear shock absorber called the adjustable clevis.
This allows you to shorten the actual length of the shock absorber and therefor the seat height.
It does not reduce wheel travel, just the angle of the swingarm when the shock is fully extended.

2) The Yamalink (as well as other brands) replaces the stock dogbone-shaped link with a slightly longer one.
This also results in a different swingarm angle and a lower seat height when the shock is fully extended.

4) A suspension specialist shop can (for most bikes, anyway) actually reduce the length of the front forks and the rear shock by modifying the internals.
This does result in less suspension travel depending on how much shorter you specify the fork and shock be shortened because it results in the fork tubes and rear shock shaft not extending outward as far as they used to.
Yes, it is more expensive because you are paying somebody else to perform this for you, and it often includes using parts specially made for doing this.
Some riders claim this is the best way to lower the seat height of a bike with long-travel suspension, especially if you want it lowered more than the stock adjustment or lowering links can provide.

6 & 7) When you wrote TW230, I assume you meant TTR230.

WR250R: Yamaha's high-end dual-sport bike, highway-worthy, dirt-capable, road legal in all countries.
WR250X: Supermotard version of WR250R.
This forum is dedicated to the above two bikes.

WR250F: Yamaha's enduro racer, road legal in some countries, not road legal in most US states. This forum does not address this bike.

You therefore need to figure out what kind of riding you intend to do, and then decide on the appropriate bike.

I am also 5'6", and this my advice on lowering a bike: if you decide on the F (or any pure dirt bike), leave it as is. Spend the time to learn balancing the bike and becoming a more competent rider; this will pay huge dividends down the line.

If you plan on venturing in city traffic with an R or X model, then pick a lowering link to bring the seat height to a level that makes you comfortable. Plan on bringing the bike to its original height once your confidence has increased.