Lowering Suspension with Stock Adjustments

I got tired of always looking for the stock lowering thread on TT to
refer folks to, so I got the author's permission to reprint it on
WRRDualSport. Share it with one and all!

Linky-dink

You're the man!!! Can't be better explain. Thank !

Made it a sticky.

How much lower is the seat height after this adjustment?

One inch.

There is some discussion at TT has to how much you should lower the front after maxing out the stock rear lowering (which, to be a stickler, they claim is slightly LESS than one inch).

The YAMALINK guy claims that professional riders recommend lowering the front LESS THAN the rear on this bike. I followed this advice and lowered the front half inch after maxing out the rear drop (stock).

Seams ok but I'm only an average rider.

Can the rear be raised, or is it max height stock?

Shock lowered, yamalink installed, front lowered 13mm. Rear shock rebound 3 clicks out.Handles better then it did when stock!

Ok, I used the instructions in the first post here. Got as far as step #5 (this was last summer). The jam nut should separate from the block, correct? The instruction say it's asymmetrical - backward thread. So is that backward as if looking down, or backward as if looking up at the shock? As I hold the block with channel locks (as per the instructions), do I push on the wrench on the jam nut to loosen it or pull? I don't want to turn the shock shaft within the shock, correct?

I'm going to lower the front end too. I bet it's easier to do this removing the front wheel first, correct?

Like I said, I tried all this last summer but gave up.

Quote :

The instruction say it's asymmetrical - backward thread.

The instructions don't say backward thread anywhere on the page. It's a standard thread. Pretend the shock mount is just a nut. How would separate two nuts on a bolt.

The large nut is meant to be screwed up the shaft towards the black rebound adjuster assembly.
-------------------------------------------------------

Here is what I did:
Screwed the rebound adjuster (black knob) clockwise, all the way
in, and then unscrewed it a full 25 clicks plus 2 more for good measure.
Loosened the large nut that was seated against the lower shock mount.
Removed the bolt from the lower shock mount.
Turned the nut up the shock shaft until the nut just touched the rebound adjuster knob.
Screwed the lower shock mount further up the shock shaft until it touched the large nut.
Replaced the lower shock mount bolt.
Snugged the nut against the lower shock mount.
Re-adjusted the rebound adjuster.
I later learned that you don't have to undo the lower shock mount.


NOTE: notice the flats on the otherwise round metal collar up against the spring retainer? Put a wrench on that to keep the shock shaft from turning ONLY while you are screwing the nut and lower shock mount up the shaft.

ramz wrote:

Quote :

The instruction say it's asymmetrical - backward thread.

The instructions don't say backward thread anywhere on the page. It's a standard thread. Pretend the shock mount is just a nut. How would separate two nuts on a bolt.

The large nut is meant to be screwed up the shaft towards the black rebound adjuster assembly.
-------------------------------------------------------

Here is what I did:
     Screwed the rebound adjuster (black knob) clockwise, all the way
in, and then unscrewed it a full 25 clicks plus 2 more for good measure.
     Loosened the large nut that was seated against the lower shock mount.
     Removed the bolt from the lower shock mount.
     Turned the nut up the shock shaft until the nut just touched the rebound adjuster knob.
     Screwed the lower shock mount further up the shock shaft until it touched the large nut.
     Replaced the lower shock mount bolt.
     Snugged the nut against the lower shock mount.
     Re-adjusted the rebound adjuster.
     I later learned that you don't have to undo the lower shock mount.


NOTE: notice the flats on the otherwise round metal collar up against the spring retainer? Put a wrench on that to keep the shock shaft from turning ONLY while you are screwing the nut and lower shock mount up the shaft.

Hi Just joined the band wagon... and will be doing this little adjustment..
can you explain more on your last statement and your note... Thanks in advance

I marked up this drawing hopefully I understand completely..... yes it is simple enough to remove it from the link..... but if there is an alternative.. doesn't hurt to try... and plus I'm a bit lazy

Leo167 wrote:

I marked up this drawing hopefully I understand completely..... yes it is simple enough to remove it from the link..... but if there is an alternative.. doesn't hurt to try... and plus I'm a bit lazy

[url=https://servimg.com/view/19190172/10]]

it seems like that would be more work, if you could get a wrench on the flat of the shaft you would have the tension of the spring working against you. Its so easy to jack your bike up, drop the link, pull out lower shock bolt and turn block by hand.

Since I installed a Race Tech Gold valve, I've had my rear shock out many times I have it down to less than 5 min to fully remove the shock.

One tip, when you jack your bike up put a 2x4 under the rear wheel. you can use it to lift rear wheel to get the bolts back into the lower shock and link.

Kool.... Thanks TB

Are you sure this is legal in California, like everything else?

LOL I thought I was funny till I mistakenly seen you were from NYC.

mcdoudlehopper wrote:

LOL I thought I was funny till I mistakenly seen you were from NYC.

this coming from a yooper

Was reading someones post from Cali and seems like you cant do anything out there. Confused the two post. Love the U.P.

Did this adjustment today...
maxed the rear and dropped the forks about a half inch
Still have to tip toe while straight up..but at least both balls of the feet are more planted
I can flat foot now on a slight lean.... before it was close to that point of no return lean before i can flat foot
Glad this this is a sticky...made this task a breeze....Thanks forum folk
bike rides well, especially after adjusting the air pressure also....dealer had 37# up front and 34# in the rear
no she's plush.. think I like this better than my Pikes Peak

I originally planned on making my own adjustable yamalink to set the bike height to my preference... but after re-examining this thread  ..
it kind of looks like when the shock block is moved towards the shock 1/2 " the bike lowers . 900" according to the yamalink vendors site.. or almost 2:1... Soooo... if i were machine 1/4" off the top of the shock block the bike would magically lower another 1/2"... 3/8= 3/4" etc etc..

The shock block is plenty robust ... until i play with the unit i can't see more harm being done from 10 minute job machining off/deburring the shock block versus jamming a yamalink in there at what $145.00 ..let alone what the exchange rate is to {what might as well be }the north pole .......

I just need to check where the lower threaded shock portion is inside the shock block to see if it has the clearance to drop another 1/2"

the best part would be infinite rear height adjustability using the the stock lock nut/ threaded portion of the shock...

Anyways i'll post up the results on a new farkling thread here {and on farkling metal chips in adv} when time permits.

Save yourself a bunch of work and take the lock nut off so you can lower the bike more with the stock ride height adjuster.
Use some thread locker on it so it cant back off without the lock nut holding it in place.

I bought a used WR250R with the rear shock height set at its lowest. (No threads showing) The forks are at their original setting clamped at 3mm above the  triple tree.  I like the seat height like this, do I need to raise the fork? Or can leave it like this?  
I found the 2008 shop manual on line and there is nothing about it. Is this covered in later manual?

I'd leave it as is, I find the wrr handles better if lowered a little in the back with the front stock height.

If you find the front tire is pushing straight ahead in dirt corners even when your sitting as far forward as possible on the seat, raise the forks up through the clamps a bit to help the front tire bite in corners.

Pushing in corners and slightly slower steering are the only down sides to having the rear lowered more than the front but I found the WRR was to high in the rear stock and lowering the rear leveled it out.

Thanks Biglake, that's useful to know.
BTW, I found the 2008 shop manual on line and it doesn't even mention the shock height option. Like it doesn't exist
Does it cover it in later manuals like 2013-2014?
Thanks,

malibu_dan wrote:

I got tired of always looking for the stock lowering thread on TT to
refer folks to, so I got the author's permission to reprint it on
WRRDualSport. Share it with one and all!

Linky-dink

I click on the Linky-dink and I get this...(what am I doing wrong?)...