Wheel bearings

How do you know if they're bad, and how hard is it to replace them? Hints, tips, advice appreciated!

Thanks!

Easiest way to check is to grab the top of the wheel and try wiggling it side-to-side.
Any free play usually means worn-out wheel bearings, or at the very least, a closer inspection.

I knock them out of the wheel hubs with the time-honored hammer and drift method.
They are a light press fit into the hubs.

cool, thanks - just like checking a car bearing - duh on me. I had a "friction spot" when rotating my rear wheel where it seemed to have some rotating resistance - it indeed has some wobble too. This is my first dirt bike, so I'm catching up on the maintenance interval curve, LOL! I have over 100,000 miles on street bikes, and had never had to replace a bearing yet (this was 3 bikes, but still..)

Just ordered a new set of All Balls from Rocky Mountain ATV - I'll be sure to grease them more (ok, at least once) during their lifetime this round.

Hi,

Does anyone know the exact sizes of the bearings on the WR? It would be a good thing to have in an FAQ..

Front bearing -
Front dust seal -

Rear bearing -
Rear dust seal -

Headraces, neck bearing -

I fancy ordering up some decent SKF (less expensive and every bit as good as OEM)

edteamslr wrote:

Hi,

Does anyone know the exact sizes of the bearings on the WR? It would be a good thing to have in an FAQ..

Front bearing -
Front dust seal -

Rear bearing -
Rear dust seal -

Headraces, neck bearing -

I fancy ordering up some decent SKF (less expensive and every bit as good as OEM)

Bump!!!

Need to replace my front wheel bearings.

the price difference here in the holy land between the OEM bearings and the SKF bearings is only 6-fold

I would really appreciate it if someone could post the exact sizes, would like to buy them tomorrow and replace over the weekend.


Thanks

WR Bearings -
Fronts: 40x12x17 (seals 40x7x 22 or 23?). Bearings called 6203-2RD same on both sides (30-4004 seals).
Rears: 50x14x22 and 44x12x22 (seals: 50x30x7 and 30x44x5).
Bearings called 60/22-2RD-OE6 and62/22-2RD-QE6 (30-5003 and 30-4403 seals)

SKF:
Rear1 SKF 62/222RS1 Sealed Deep Groove Ball Bearing 22x50x14mm £11
Rear2 60/222RS Budget Rubber Sealed Deep Groove Ball Bearing 22x44x12mm £5.60
Yamaha no.s:
Fronts: 93306-20348-00 and 93106-23002-00 (seal)
Rears: 93306-27206-00 £50 and 93306-07202-00 £26 (bearings)
93106-30001-00 and 93106-30045-00 (seals)

edteamslr wrote:

WR Bearings -
Fronts: 40x12x17 (seals 40x7x 22 or 23?). Bearings called 6203-2RD same on both sides (30-4004 seals).
Rears: 50x14x22 and 44x12x22 (seals: 50x30x7 and 30x44x5).
Bearings called 60/22-2RD-OE6 and62/22-2RD-QE6 (30-5003 and 30-4403 seals)

SKF:
Rear1 SKF 62/222RS1 Sealed Deep Groove Ball Bearing 22x50x14mm £11
Rear2 60/222RS Budget Rubber Sealed Deep Groove Ball Bearing 22x44x12mm £5.60
Yamaha no.s:
Fronts: 93306-20348-00 and 93106-23002-00 (seal)
Rears: 93306-27206-00 £50 and 93306-07202-00 £26 (bearings)
93106-30001-00 and 93106-30045-00 (seals)

Can we make this a sticky, please ?

edteamslr wrote:

WR Bearings -
Fronts: 40x12x17 (seals 40x7x 22 or 23?). Bearings called 6203-2RD same on both sides (30-4004 seals).
Rears: 50x14x22 and 44x12x22 (seals: 50x30x7 and 30x44x5).
Bearings called 60/22-2RD-OE6 and62/22-2RD-QE6 (30-5003 and 30-4403 seals)

SKF:
Rear1 SKF 62/222RS1 Sealed Deep Groove Ball Bearing 22x50x14mm £11
Rear2 60/222RS Budget Rubber Sealed Deep Groove Ball Bearing 22x44x12mm £5.60
Yamaha no.s:
Fronts: 93306-20348-00 and 93106-23002-00 (seal)
Rears: 93306-27206-00 £50 and 93306-07202-00 £26 (bearings)
93106-30001-00 and 93106-30045-00 (seals)

Sorry for being a complete nob , but what should I ask for at the SKF bearing store in order to replace the front bearings and seals?


Thanks again.

Print the list.
Mark the bearings you want - I use highliter pen.
Go to the store.
Hand the list to the guy/gal behind the counter.
Let them figure it out.

Works for me.

So just for grins I took the dimensions and punched them into the search on Boca Bearings' site. They make a complete ceramic bearing including races. For those who don't know, " in general ceramic bearings are lighter, stronger and faster. Typically you will see about 2-3 times the life out of a ceramic bearing as compared to a standard bearing. This is because ceramic is harder than steel in ball form; it is 3-4 times the Rockwell hardness of a steel ball. As far as performance is concerned, a ceramic bearing is capable of producing 50% more RPM than a standard bearing. This is due to the fact that the ceramic ball is virtually frictionless because it is non-porous, unlike steel which has pores and generates both heat and friction. Ceramic bearings will also not micro-weld due to insufficient lube or arcing. All of these characteristics add up to a better performing vehicle that can accelerate faster and requires less energy to achieve peak RPM."

Anyways, can anyone guess what a bearing like that costs for the front axle? Wait for it.... wait for it.... one hundred and five dollars. That's right. $105. I won't be getting any, but I did find it interesting. If I was racing competitively I'd consider it to get any advantage I could.

Here's a link.



Both bearings for rear axle = $216.90 (free shipping!).
Both bearings for front axle = $209.90 (free shipping!).



For a more realistic replacement you could go with the steel race/ceramic ball version. They're only $60 each. "Maintenance free. Greased for life"
Clicky.

ramz wrote:

Print the list.
Mark the bearings you want - I use highliter pen.
Go to the store.
Hand the list to the guy/gal behind the counter.
Let them figure it out.

Works for me.

I'll do that.

Does anybody know if that last measurement on the front seals is 22 or 23?

pbnut wrote:

So just for grins I took the dimensions and punched them into the search on Boca Bearings' site. They make a complete ceramic bearing including races. For those who don't know, " in general ceramic bearings are lighter, stronger and faster. Typically you will see about 2-3 times the life out of a ceramic bearing as compared to a standard bearing. This is because ceramic is harder than steel in ball form; it is 3-4 times the Rockwell hardness of a steel ball. As far as performance is concerned, a ceramic bearing is capable of producing 50% more RPM than a standard bearing. This is due to the fact that the ceramic ball is virtually frictionless because it is non-porous, unlike steel which has pores and generates both heat and friction. Ceramic bearings will also not micro-weld due to insufficient lube or arcing. All of these characteristics add up to a better performing vehicle that can accelerate faster and requires less energy to achieve peak RPM."

Anyways, can anyone guess what a bearing like that costs for the front axle? Wait for it.... wait for it.... one hundred and five dollars. That's right. $105. I won't be getting any, but I did find it interesting. If I was racing competitively I'd consider it to get any advantage I could.

Here's a link.



Both bearings for rear axle = $216.90 (free shipping!).
Both bearings for front axle = $209.90 (free shipping!).



For a more realistic replacement you could go with the steel race/ceramic ball version. They're only $60 each. "Maintenance free. Greased for life"
Clicky.

FREAKING SWEET!!!!