engine transplant issues

So i have an 08 wr250x and i have taken the engine out to put in a single seater openwheels race car. i haven't changed anything in the harness. before i start lengthening wires to have the motor wired in properly, i wanted to see if the engine would start up. i have plugged everything back together and originally got the er-1,er-2 code. i went over all the connections again. turned the switch to "on" and didn't hear the fuel pump prime but no error codes at all. when i press the start button the engine just turns over and doesn't seem to get fuel or spark. so am i missing something that is telling the ECU to not prime the pump because there are no engine error codes.

hope someone has some opinions. the bike started up perfectly before i took the motor out.

thanks

Couple of dumb thoughts:
What is the status of kick-stand switch?
Lean angle sensor: is it hooked up?
Engine kill switch?
Clutch switch?

Just some ideas which you may well have thought of already.....

mash100 wrote:

Couple of dumb thoughts:
What is the status of kick-stand switch?
Lean angle sensor: is it hooked up?
Engine kill switch?
Clutch switch?

Just some ideas which you may well have thought of already.....

all of these are hooked up. the lean sensor is upright in the correct position.

how about the stock servo motor for the exhaust? if you unplug it it will throw a code, not sure about letting it get fuel tho but these modela have had a fuel pump issue so that could be your only problem.

the lean sensor does need to be laying horizontal with the word UP pointing up, sounds silly but your post made me think that maybe you have it vertical.

ER1 means no communication with ecu
Either a bad connection or cut wire or......frapped

Look carefully to see if one of the wires is not pushed out of the ecu connector

thanks guys. yeah the lean sensor does have "up" facing up. and i'll have to double check all the wires again. the crazy thing is that there are no codes being displayed. so the bike thinks its fine. and the EXUP solonoid is still plugged in. i'm getting pretty frustrated with EFI

Everything Grounded correctly?

Curious as to why you decided to go with this motor for your project. Something wrong with your X?

Hertz wrote:

Curious as to why you decided to go with this motor for your project. Something wrong with your X?

It for my final engineering project. we have to build a single seater race car and the wrx was a good candidate. for ecomomy purposes the EFI system helps. but now i'm running into problems.

Did you go over the wiring?
Like I mentioned ER1 means the ecu does not see the bike
You won't see trouble codes because it cannot detect any of the sensors
You have a simple problem with the wiring or somehow you created a voltage spike that toasted the ecu

Did anyone connect the battery backward or something during the install, maybe crush the wire harness?
Look real close at the wires in the back of the ecu connector and see if you can gently tug any of them out the back side, if so, there's your problem

0007onWR wrote:

Did you go over the wiring?
Like I mentioned ER1 means the ecu does not see the bike
You won't see trouble codes because it cannot detect any of the sensors
You have a simple problem with the wiring or somehow you created a voltage spike that toasted the ecu

Did anyone connect the battery backward or something during the install, maybe crush the wire harness?
Look real close at the wires in the back of the ecu connector and see if you can gently tug any of them out the back side, if so, there's your problem

i've gone over the wiring. will the starter motor still crank the motor even if the ecu is toast?

Yes it could crank with a failed ecu
But remember that ecu's don't fail on their own, they get damaged by electrical problems/errors
If it ran before and not after then it was something that happened during dis or reassembly
I would be very cautious about plugging a new ecu in unless you can point a finger at who popped it

It's either that or you are going to have a "Dohhhh!!! moment" and find the proverbial 10 cent problem
sometimes the best thing is a fresh mind that is not contaminated, I know what it's like to stare at a problem for so long that I can't see it, only to have someone with half my knowledge come along and solve the problem in 2 seconds

Is there an engine ground wire on it?
Are you using the stock ignition switch?

0007onWR wrote:

Yes it could crank with a failed ecu
But remember that ecu's don't fail on their own, they get damaged by electrical problems/errors
If it ran before and not after then it was something that happened during dis or reassembly
I would be very cautious about plugging a new ecu in unless you can point a finger at who popped it

It's either that or you are going to have a "Dohhhh!!! moment" and find the proverbial 10 cent problem
sometimes the best thing is a fresh mind that is not contaminated, I know what it's like to stare at a problem for so long that I can't see it, only to have someone with half my knowledge come along and solve the problem in 2 seconds

Is there an engine ground wire on it?
Are you using the stock ignition switch?

yeah the ground is attached still and i am still using the stock ignition. its as though i have taken the engine right off the bike with all turn signals, lights, relays. you name it. all the switches (clutch, kickstand, etc) are all still hooked up. so i fear that the ECU is probably toast. is there a way to diagnose if the ECU is toast?

Drew

No there is no test because there's a billion things going on in there
The thing is the ecu won't just die like that, there's either a reason for the failure or there's a different problem
When you unplug it are any of the pins broken off and stuck in the connector
Did anyone disco or reco the battery while cranking the engine or with the key on or something
Just sounds fishy

0007onWR wrote:

No there is no test because there's a billion things going on in there
The thing is the ecu won't just die like that, there's either a reason for the failure or there's a different problem
When you unplug it are any of the pins broken off and stuck in the connector
Did anyone disco or reco the battery while cranking the engine or with the key on or something
Just sounds fishy

no, no one has done that unless i wasn't around when someone did. as far the broken pins, no the ecu looks unharmed. i'm just so incredibly frustrated with this engine. there is something i'm missing and i just can't figure it out. thanks for all the help.

Well what I would do next is plug your ecu into another WR and see if the problem goes to the other bike
That will answer a question
I saw one with a smashed meter that would not start, didn't make sense but tells me the meter is capable of messing things up

if its not throwing codes make sure your coil on plug is fully seated and the wiring intact. This is going to make for a pretty boring slow open wheeler, should have picked up a salvage 600cc sport bike engine.

0007onWR wrote:

Well what I would do next is plug your ecu into another WR and see if the problem goes to the other bike
That will answer a question
I saw one with a smashed meter that would not start, didn't make sense but tells me the meter is capable of messing things up

twowheeled wrote:

if its not throwing codes make sure your coil on plug is fully seated and the wiring intact. This is going to make for a pretty boring slow open wheeler, should have picked up a salvage 600cc sport bike engine.

Thanks for all the input guys. I found out that it was the ECU that fried. i believe it was because when i hooked everything up to to try the engine the first time i mixed up the tail light connector with the temp sensor connector. which the temp sensor connector runs on probably a 4V system(low V) and the tail lights run on the 12V system, it most likely fried the ECU. i have been working with an ex-yamaha tech and his old shop let me try a new ECU off a new bike and it fired right up.

as for the 600cc motor, i could use an engine that large due to rules of the competition. also single cylinder engines are much lighter. if i had the option to go larger i probably would have just chosen a 450 single cylinder.

0007onWR wrote:

i have been working with an ex-yamaha tech and his old shop let me try a new ECU off a new bike and it fired right up.

For anyone else diagnosing this sort of problem, always try this the other way around. Fit the suspect ECU into a bike that you know to be good. The risk with trying a new ECU into your non-running bike is that the short still exists and you end up frying a second ECU. Not exactly cheap those things.

playwme wrote:

0007onWR wrote:

i have been working with an ex-yamaha tech and his old shop let me try a new ECU off a new bike and it fired right up.

For anyone else diagnosing this sort of problem, always try this the other way around. Fit the suspect ECU into a bike that you know to be good. The risk with trying a new ECU into your non-running bike is that the short still exists and you end up frying a second ECU. Not exactly cheap those things.

i completely agree. i figured out what was wrong and what i did wrong. so it was the ECU that was fried. and what happened was i accedentially plugged the tail light connector into the temp sensor connector. all the connectors are colour coded on the bike except those ones and i think one up front on the bike. so i believe what happened was the tail light being a 12V sytem would have been an overload on the sensors ~4V system, in turn frying the ECU.

https://www.youtube.com/user/oaky132x#p/u/36/NbVyE5ZGj9k
like this ?

dtx wrote:

https://www.youtube.com/user/oaky132x#p/u/36/NbVyE5ZGj9k
like this ?

Cool.

How do you get a reverse with the Motorcycle transmission?

a starter motor and a sprocket. select N in gearbox and press the button to have starter wind chain backwards. well thats how most guys building go karts do it.