changing sprocket and chain

Just some interesting pics. Take-em leave-em, i don't care.

chain has some DEFINITE wear which I've know about for awhile now. When you see this, "you have a problem"


Never really looked at the front sprocket, didn't really care.



Installing the new one. No one ever mentioned the detents don't line back up. Are you just supposed to make new ones?

Buncha pics of the rear.

Anyone know how to mount this bad boy?


Old one over new one so you can see it's bigger. 45tooth vs. 43 tooth




New mounted


Did you know you could remove and replace the chain slider with just removing the kickstand? Only 2 bolts.


Do you people actually know what to look for? I didn't until I ordered and installed a new one.






Don't get to see the new chain cause I broke my dust seal while trying to install. It will take about a week to get a new one in.

After you sock the front sprocket nut down to spec., you have to peen the flanged rib of the nut down into those two depressions in the shaft.
That's the locking feature between the nut and shaft.

Myself, I use a new nut.

Keep us up to date on how it rolls!

Nice photos and details on "how to".

Thanks for sharing.

That rear sprocket alum or steel? Source? Thanks for the write-up!

Sarah

greer wrote:

That rear sprocket alum or steel? Source? Thanks for the write-up!

Sarah

Steel. Alum is only for racing imo. Sprocket Center because someone else recommended them. Called to get the Tri-metal sprocket(cause it looks cool) and the guy said it was a joke. Ended up getting what-ever whole kit they had on sale for our bike. Didn't have to order bolts because I got the silver sprocket instead of the black (wtf?)

*I'm going to try the clip-style masterlink cause that is what it is shipped with. Pretty sure next time will go rivet style.

Thank you.

Doug and I use clips, too; we degrease and smear a bead of silicone on them once installed. Over the years we've each just lost one. Not bad but still causes a jolt when you look and the thing is gone. I googled a little this morning and found Master Link Clip Tricks:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=280858

I'm nearly certain we've made the mistake of putting the "square edge in" every time.

Sarah

You are going to notice a HUGE difference in drive-train noise with your new setup.

As in much quieter. It'll be surprising.

I did not "peen" over my countershaft sprocket nut.

It's not loosened in about 3000 miles.

I have a c-clip x-ring chain and haven't lost a c-clip since I installed it over a 1000 miles ago.

Will have to try to figure out if I have it installed correctly.

I don't thrash mine off-road much so maybe that's a difference with c-clips popping off?????

Thanks sarah, didn't know that. My directions do say to back the plate off once installed so it's against the clip tho. Do you need to be careful not to pinch O'rings when installing (or do they just seat themselves?). Looking at it I'm thinking it's almost impossible NOT to pinch one of them.

*I went to put the chain on to at least get that done while waiting for the dust cover and found out I need/don't have the tool to install the master link. So I either need to go buy something or wait for a "friend" in the area to step up and help

What "dust cover" you talking about?

And what tool do you need?

I installed mine without any special tools.

yes - you crush the o-ring (x-ring in my case) but it's rubber, it un-crushes.

We don't have a special tool of any sort. Put the chain together and fit the the plate on the pins; place a small diameter socket on the plate centered over one of the pins; use a pair of pliers to squeeze it together a little at a time alternating back and forth between pins. Don't rush, check your progress as you go and you won't squish the o-rings. All that clear as mud??!!

Sarah

Yep...I used a pair of vice-grips, a socket, and flat piece of aluminum to back up the rivets on the far side.

I used the vice grips so I could adjust the amount of pressure needed a little at a time.

I would compress, attempt to put clip on, compress a little more, attempt clip again, and just work it a little at a time until I got it to snap on.

Again, the rubber rings are meant to compress and un-compress.

Unless you applied so much pressure as to rupture the o-ring you don't have to worry.

I do want to check about the stamped side of the c-clip facing out or in on mine though. That's some helpful advice. Makes perfect sense.

Which way the opening of the c faces is not something I debate though. The opening faces the opposite of the way the chain travels under acceleration.